MY1PATH

stock pipe is 1.875. and most exhuast shops are set up for 2"-3" so thats why you wouldn't go smaller for duals. I just think these engines are happiest with a single pipe setup or maybe a dual exit but not true dual unless you do allot of work to them.

75w90 API GL4 or Dex III ATF I recomed running the gl4 if you have a MT incase it leaks past the seal.

Amo1dun can you try and take pix when you do this? It completely spaced my mind. Its actaully pretty easy to locate onece the Idler backet is out of the way. shine a light in few differant angles but getting good photos in the tight space may be challenging.

I just got it! took the Idler pulley bracket off and use a needle nose and tiny screw driver to unclip the wire lead. then I slid a 19mm mid length 12point in there. A 6 point won't clear the plug a regular 19mm will not reach past the plug and a deep 19mm will hang up on the timing cover. If you only have a deep well you can cut it down till it just clears the cover. Kingman gont raped on his! 5.5 hrs of labor Ha! try an hour tops. My connectors were coroded and the old sensor fell apart as soon as I got it out. Clean contancts & new sensor I'm hoping for the best now. OH and It measures your Cyl head temps WITHOUT being Imersed in coolant so you don't have to drain anything and feel stupid like I did. alos using 3/8" drive w/ extension instead of 1/2" drive will make clearing the timing cover allot easier

well If I can't I'll just wait till I do my cams, I'll have all the covers off then. I still don't think the manifold should have to come off.

ummm 21,000% 3.58= 751.8.... AAAh wrong symol divde... 21,000/3.58=5865 rpm that puts the vg30 with stock forged internals (24000/3.3) redline @ 7272 sounds about right but my limter stops me @ 6k BUT what about the speed of the valve springs?

True duals? I can see putting 2" duals on a street only pathfinder or a 3.3 swap. But not larger than 2" and not for trail on the 3.0. THat is strictly my point of view But I belive it to be the best. dual exits from a y or muffler yeh that would be kool, on or off road with 2-2.25" pipe the problem with "Tuner exhaust" is that if you can't create enough exhuast veloctiy (not to be confused with noise) to fill a larger pipe it will actually slow you down. again, I belive this very strongly. have fun

Your Point being? cause $224.99 aint bad for a basic re-grind and $259 cuase I bought some grease and an extra cleanup feature the improves relyabilty over stock aint bad either. and the going price for JWT S1 is now $560 so I'm still under half ($280) and yes, everything has changed, Delta treated me like I was unimportant and their prices went up. So I went where everyone else can go (Schneider)So I am nolonger trying to devlop a cost effective connection that I can share with everyone. I am just simply posting my progress for those who will want to see how it ends. edit Sorry guys, I was grumpy last night

I was looking @ this today, my truck has been getting ~12mpg and poping exhuast since I got back from cali. It smells a little rich and last week it threw code 13 but has not done so again... ANyway a shop chaged kingman 5.5 hrs of labor for his old pathy because it was underneath the intake manifold... I am hoping that if I take off the AC idler backet and maybe a coolant hose or 2 I will be able to sneak in there and change it.(reaching thru the gaps in the timing cover)

allot less subtle than our flares. but I like em. I'd be interested but don't count on me I can never afford anything when I want it.

ok so I got the invoice from schneider today. $259.00 I opted to buy their assembly lube and have the lobes edge ground thus the additional costs. The way $$$ is looking I may not get to the install untill March.

My 89 seems to have 2? one just behind the coolant neck and another one just behind the throttle body. my spare manifold does not have the second one. Is it possible the the CA models had 2 coolant sensors, or is 1 an intake temp sensor for a CA model? It has 2 REALLY SKINNY wires coming out of it? Upon closer inspection it seems this mystery sensor goes directly into the EGR passage so I'm guessing CA models monitored egr temps?

sounds like the reatining clip that keeps the lip anchor foward of the x-member may have <failed, gone, missing, not installed...> allowing the anchor to creep back on the spines over time untill BANG!

well hydro assist has been done with IFS in place so I'm sure R&P can be done with the right amount of fab work. IMO for a fraction of the cost you could get a HOOHAA CL, run my recent dual stering box mod and replace all your BJ's & tre's and it will feel just as good.

my pathy is about an inch higer in the rear that the front and nobody seems to notice but me. when I loaded the back up with over 500lbs of steel scrap it went to about .5" lower than the front. most other lesser loads seem so level it out just fine.

It may drive fine and feel fine... Mine did with the stock CL, BUT when I upgraded It still was quite noticable. It was smoother, more responsive. Over all it was "wow didn't think it would get this much better than before" feeling. just my point of view...

I miss spokane... maybe I should xfer to fairchild

More than just that! the center to center (spline to taper) is about .2" shorter on the manual pitman. This will cause you passenger wheel to turn less than your driver wheel!!! Running the HooHaa I have no need for tapers(drilled out to 5/8") but having a .2" shorter pitman was not gonna fly with me. also I'd rather bolt to slotte holes and run my bolts thru the original frame location because the original fram holes are sleeved for added strenght. The casting is soft enought to cut thru quite quickly. Really the best of both worlds would be to get a Right Hand drive manual steering box from overseas. No drilling no cutting just swap the pitman.

I wonder if running a 300zx oil pump would help lifters last longer. It averages about 5-10 psi higher(depending on rpm). More hydraulic psi less wear? Its allot of work to swap a pump but maybe during an engine swap or build it could be done?

Cross the mountains to lakwood, it gets worse lol. @ least our roads aren't falling appart just the drivers and cars

He told me he'd be back 1st or 2nd week of feb IIRC, sent me an email while he was away, shoot him and email and see what happens.

M U F F DIVING thats great advertising and pricing

that reminds me of fronter thread where a guy ran 2wd frontier UCA's upsidedown and backwards(L&Rswap) as lift UCA's on his 4wd fronty. or something like that. I know, not totally related but thats what your post made me think of.

I think a few pply on N4w had simiar problems with there canisters where getting wet was the cause, I think some of those few took the canister out and let it air in a warm dry place and had no codes when they re-installed.

In the aspect of wearing out the idler arm pivot; absolutely which is really the onlything this mod adresses. In other aspects of MY WHOLE STEERING SYSTEM? My opinon is possibly yes but that is up for debate; _oe tirerods have done fine in many lifted aplications and I have not found the need for longer ones in my own lift. _the calmini CL sitll has an ball joint on each end but My HooHaa has 5/8 spherical bushings which again features a much larger bearing surface _Calmini CL is ajustable. This can allow you to ajust how much more or less the inside wheel turns I dono if thats what they inteded, its not really needed but its the only thing my steering doesn't do. _ calmini machined pitman... has anybody ever broke a stock pitman? _calimini HD steering $629.95 vs HooHaa+DualBox $300 or less (depending on JY pricing)