MY1PATH

for those pesky cam cover plates by the fire wall, that elusive #6 spark plug or other hard to reach items on the back of the engine... Support the tranny with a jack Unbolt the tanny from the X-member Jack the tranny up and the engine leans foward giving you more workspace by the firewall. CAUTION; don't force the tranny into the tranny tunnel, only lift it a little. CAUTION: if you have a BL lifting the tranny too far could tear motor mounts or pull/strain/break hoses, wires and connectors.

the price is really good on those, the thing about regrinds that I want to stay away from is that to increase the lift by .030 that ammount has to be taken off the closed side (base)of the cam and the lifters will have to fill up more to take up the slack. Not a proplem with street cars and high rpms where the oil preassure assists very well. But when targeting lower rpm and trying to keep in mind the longevity of the lifters. you will either have to shim the lifters (.030 off the base means .025 shim INSIDE the lifter)or replace them sooner than you would if you were running a stock cam because they are doing extra work. The grinder I am going to says he will "spray weld" the cams in the increased lift areas so that no base grinding will be reiquired. this is the next best thing to having a billet grind and still considerably cheaper. for most people this is not a big concern but if these cams do well in my guinea pig engine then they will go into my next build. And I want that next engine to last as long as the first one.

I been running 36psi(street) in my Nokian Vatiiva MT's. 31x10.50 but also on an 8" rim they are wearing pretty even. my laredo's were the same size but on a 7" rim and I only ran those @ 33psi my door sicker says 28 psi for 235/75r15's (never had em) did you ever get 235's or are you still on 31's

From what I hear the jwt s1 will be a little rough @ idle in a 3.0 but power from 2k up is impoved and 3k up is amazing. 900-1000 idle will smooth them out. they do even better in the 3.3 becuase the greater displacement smooths them out. I am currently working on a pototype grind with a local cam grinder. the peak numbers will not be as high as the JWT but I am attempting to bring the power in sooner and flatter(the vg already has a flat band to start with witch is a plus) and best of all (unless prices have chaged on me) if it turns out well I will be able to offer these cams to members for close to $200 which is a hard price to beat. as I get closer to trying to get this thing off the ground I will start a thread on it.

the xterra has a better UCA system for those who have suffered poor uca anchors you will know what I mean.

It's $$$ in their pocket so why can't they? Unless they stopped making everything and don't want to sell kits piece by piece. when I get told I've had too many drinks they still give me more when I put money on the counter. Where's RC's counter?

I have one of those things pugged into my kenwood. Doesn't do much considering I mostly listen to my iPod.

87-95 frames will work.@ some point the rear body mount bolts are differant but I think all else is the same. If yo want a leaf sprung pathy (I don't know why anybody would) 86.5-97 Hardbody pikcup may also fit with some modifactions to gas tank mounting on the donor.

you can get metal sleves @ the hardware store and cut them to length.

same bolt pattern, just ream the holes up a little so they fit freely on the 3.3L 10mm studs. try thorley or nissan motorsports.

JUST remove a headlight and stick it there. plenty of airflow and now heat soak from other radiators.

its allota work for less than 10 ponies. However if your doing serious work to it the mpfi will prolly allow you to rev higher since 2 cyl will not be fighting over 2 injectors.

My OIL filter has yet to recive a deadly blow, its tucked up where the trany xmeber meets the frame rail its tucked up pretty close to the body sitting about 2-3" higer than the bottom of the frame. I have finned aluminum cover over it that would protect it from punctures. I could imagine a small cooler doing well in this space if postitioned directly over the x-memer and enclosed in a luvered box to protect it from punctures. the box could always be opened to hose the road dirt or sludge from mud/water crossings.

there is interchange-abily of calipers and a few rotors from several vehicles... I don't remember the exact combinations but really once I went rear disc I was plenty satified with the braking. My next step will be better lines and possibly stillen rotors with ebc greenstuf pads. dono the plus or minus of this but if your front brakes are 2 piston they are plastic pistons and the single piston calipers are metal piston.

owch and that is NOT the part thats supposed to break, I would call warn and see if they can do anything about that for you.

my friend who always thinks he knows what he is doing will remove the wear indicator when it hits and then go another couple hundred miles or more before replacing them. He has broke many a thing on his vehicles but he didn't brake is brakes. maybe he was just lucky.

stick with your open diff If look into a locker or an lsd look into warn hubs with the breakable spline rings.(sold separately) these rings replace in 5 min and are designed to fail before your cv does.

I personaly prefer magnaflow. 2" or 2.25 in/outlet will be fine and will go well with future exhaust changes. If you looking for just top end or will be keeping the rest stock a 2.5 wont hurt you either.

you could weld shut some 3x6 .25wall rectangle stock and put a reciever in the middle. that would make a great tank. A few people here have a design like that.

3.3 and 3.0 heads have the same compression but the 3.3 was made using an improved casting process that allowed for a more effiecent flow design. ex. fewer & smaller casting seams + smoother and rounder chamber.

I don't know why but some models just didn't have the light. Even the white letter HB cards I used for my guages didn't even have any spot for the light so I cut and pasted my on engine symbol in its place.

they are both antennas. I think my dad had to take the pathy back to the shop one time becuse they gave him a window w/o the center wire and left the pigtail hainging out on the dash. I don't remember fully, I was little.

I took mine from an HB I think it was as 86. a ps box takes up about 3x the space above the frame rail and is pretty heavy. u may need 2 trim or BL to fit a ps box.

don't forget, I grew up in cali. But that stretch of i20 from I5 to hwy 1 has some of the windyest roads I've driven on in cali. Lots of fun tho!

well It went thru the real test going fast on the overly windy HWY 20 in CA. still not broken. I think the majority of the problem was the fragile LH clamps. I saw 2 differant styles in they jy but all the RH ones were the same and had a little guesset on them.(none of the LH had gussets). I think stock clamp bushings and minimal tighness on the end links may have helped a little too. all and all it pretty much drove like a car on the way down instead of a boat-like lifted SUV