MY1PATH

check your alignment and check your strut rod bushings(compression/tesnsion rod). In 2wd the wheels are pushing on the rods and in 4wd the wheels are pulling on them. there are thicker snap rings that can be put on the CV axle that reduce shimmy. you want .030" of play or less IIRC

I think the z-cars used serpentine belts. Plus why make it harder for your weak 70amp alty to keep up with the electrical load.

how did we get from JWT cams to headlights?

I have never seen a vehicle come with a hydralic Jack from the factory. the Nissan Pathfinder Bottle jack Is a GEAR DRIVEN telescoping bottle jack. the mechanism is a screw inside a screw with a ring & pinion @ the bottom. when you turn the pinon gear the jack goes up and down. You can unscrew the base and re-grease it and it turns allot smoother. If you loose your handle you can still turn it by sticking a srewdriver or similar tool thru it sideways.

I wouldn't say that at all. the truths I listed are not guaranteed to happen. I think a Mild cam would last just fine in your engine. A maintained VG is good for a half million miles and when well cared for I bet the same would appy if it had a mild cam.

ok, ocasionally if I jossle the wheels back and forth several times while not moving I get this. I also got this 3x climbing a V shaped camber slope w/ mr. jim.(other trail times too) I also get this when I slowly creep 1 front wheel on to high objects and slip off. I have no leaks, fresh bleed, vacum booster is fine, etc all brake components are good. My theroy; wheel bearings. if they are wearing out can they allow enough play that the disc presses the pad(& piston) in. thus requireing more fluid to return the pistion to an operating postion. that might explain why it will sometimes go to the floor onece and then be fine on pump #2. @ higer speeds the it requires less work to turn the wheels so rotors wouldn't be flexed against the piston. am I crazy or is this possible?

I like JJ's answer better than my own answer.

x2 under the weight of the vehicle the tire will fatten out more than the top of the tire.

Did the 2dr go a few years later in other countries? or was that just the wd21 chassis itself?

there are allot of factors involved there but gernarally with a mild cam the answer is no. Here are some truths; Cams with sharper lobe peaks (high lift and low durataion) will wear down quicker because there is less surface area in contact with the lifter @ peak lift which also is the point of highest load. A reground cam may wear out a hydraulic lifter faster becase lift is acheived by grinding off the base of the cam lobe. the lifter has to fill up with more oil and stand taller sometimes pushing it to the limit of its working range. Lifters can be shimmed for the ammount was ground off the base. Also frequent oil changes and not reving high untill the engine is warm can reduce this. A a differant cam cycles a sping @ a differant frequency then it was cycled for its last how ever many miles. For most sprins this is not a problem but if a taller cam pushes the spring to near its binding point it can accerate spring fatigue. Running uprated springs with a cam increases RPM potential but also increases valve seat preassure. this can wear out the valve and the valve seat faster depending on how much higer the spring rate is. I don't think JWT springs will do this. (61lbs vs 54 stock) None of the above conditions are guarnateed to happen and every case is differant with many variables.

the stock springs will be fine, there is less lift than the JWT S1 grind which also runs off stock springs. when in good condition they are capable of running mild cams up to 7k RPM. Yeh my springs are 21 years and 240k old but I'm also not reving to 7K

Price range? 4 years ago I talked to them and it looked like this could be done for about $200 things may have changed... will this work on other engines? the VG30i is the most sensitve to cams; Idle and flatness of power will all be hindered by its displacement and low intake charge. vg30e and vg33e both feature higer intake charges and the vg33e has the inertial value of its greater displacment. I other words if the vg30i runs it other engines will likely run it smoother. ok I'm tired I got the post outa my system I'll check back tomorrow....

EDIT; I reccomend the Schneider 256H Grind for anyone who whants something mild for low end. see post #42 for more details Ok this is feeling like madness, drawing precise lobes with numbers, more and more people knowing about it and questions rising. So I figured I'd start this thread before I got the Ball rolling. Some of my ramblings were here http://npora.ipbhost...94entry462694 ending with the goal was to have a flat increase power from Idle up. I will be contacting the grinder on monday or tuesday and try to put my prototype into motion. will it work? well thats why its a prototype. I may not get my desiered result... Part of developing this was advancing the intake. But I do not want the valve to open on the piston. JWT has advanced the intake opening farther than anyone else and with a greater amount of lift equalling the most vavle protursion @ TDC. I don't know how much more room there is so I will not advance the intake timing more than JWT. So I may or may not wind up with a cam the behaves very similar to an existing grind that is midler than the S1. So now I pick up on a fresh thread. I sent Delta Cams in Tacoma an email and I hope to hear back monday or tuesday. I developed this grind with MY ENGINE in mind. 3.0, restrictive TBI manifold but awesome exuaust system. I will be doing a tune up before the cam is installed and get a basline dyno. Once the new cam is broken in (if it didn't have any issues off the bat) I will do an after dyno. If the result is desireable I will see who is interested in having more made...

the goal was to have a flat increase power from Idle up. I will be contacting the grinder on monday or tuesday and try to put my prototype into motion. will it work? well thats why its a prototype. I may not get my desiered result... Part of developing this was advancing the intake. But I do not want the valve to open on the piston. JWT has advanced the intake opening farther than anyone else and with a greater amount of lift equalling the most vavle protursion @ TDC. I don't know how much more room there is so I will not advance the intake timing more than JWT. So I may or may not wind up with a cam the behaves very similar to an existing grind that is midler than the S1. branching off ...http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25236&st=0&gopid=462763&&do=findComment&comment=462763

the slip yoke seal on the tx10 is THE ONLY SEAL ON THE TX10 THAT IS EASY. tap the dust cover off with a rubber hamer and the seal is right there on the end. pick it out and tap a new one in. re-installing the dust cover is the hardest part, they are not perfect and will chime like a bell if you don't play with it a little to get it quiet. the gears pump oil towards the seal to keep the speedo gear lubed so if no oil came out after the saft was out of the seal I suspect your t-case oil is low.

Idono about the fronteir. the 3.3 ecu seems to have allot more codes it can throw. stupid stuff like water in the carbon canister. I think everything pre 95 you can remove the cabon canister and it won't even know.

swapped the entire round dash too... if your donor is a 90-93 I think you can keep the same dash and cable driven speedo. on the other hand a 3.3 have been run under the 3.0 TBI system without reqireing any tbi modifacations(I think one has even been done w/a cam). So the TBI will keep up Don't get me wrong I'd like to swap too(after everything else is done) But I'm sure many will agree that there many other les time consuming ways to get power....

x2 I'll agree the chalk test seems like the most relyable method and it can quicly be done to adapt to varying load conditions.

Is it gonna be A wolf in sheeps clothing? Its not really an R50 anymore inside; bad ass engine, internal cage acting as frame to the unibody, sas.... If the original body work goes back over it I'm sure it will surprise allot of people when it starts to rip up the ground!

well my tire says max psi 50 and I am nowhere near that. I just figured some 31x10.5's would heat up more if run under 30 psi. I guess allot of it depends on the tire too. I had a set of laredo's that were so stiff that the sidewall looked the same @ 18 psi(but still got hot lol) as it did 33 psi But my Vatiiva's noticably flex more @ 30 psi than @ 36 psi

Kool that kinda confirms what I was thinking. How's your mpgs, its not worse than the old engine is it? ps here is a really good article http://xenonz31.com/camspecs.html

does hydraulic oil have the same polymer consturction that allows for multiple viscocities based on temperature?

hey JJ I was just gonna ask you that lol. is your vg still a 3.0? I know mr. jim did .060 over pistons witch comes out to a true 3.1L or .14L bigger than stock. what grind did you get I know you can't be certain of the differance but does it feel good from idle to 2k? I'm sure 2k up is great. I think scniders cams are degreed closer to the stock centerline (early intake closing) so that less low end is lost that other cams of similar duration.

wow I bet that would be a hot sidewall after 10 miles on the freeway

Keep in mind the truth behind the 3k oil change. It's really about oil cleanliness. dirty oil will make hydraulic lifters wear faster. This was especially important in maintaining the life of long OHC timing chains(not the vg) example; pathy with frequent negelcted oil changes my develop a lifter tap in 120k or less but a pathy that is changed every 3k or when the oil starts to darken may not devlop a lifter tap until after 220k or more.