MY1PATH

do the 90+ pathys "prime" the injectors if you pause @ run for a few seconds before turing to start? I do that on my tbi when its below 30 but that may just be an archaic thing

ALL DONE! Heres some additional info and Ideas: You see that little vented plug on top of the box in picture #2 up top(original post)? I repaced that with a tread in barb fitting and hooked up some hose to tie it in with the nearby vent line (for t-case,tranny and front diff vent) this will ensure water stays outa the box. BOTH PS and manual steering boxes contain 3 sets of needle bearings for the large diameter steering shaft to pivot on. the saft is nearly 2x the diamere of the OE and MOOG pitmans and features aprox 10X the load bearing surface so it is not likely to wear out on the pivot end making it superior to in this aspect to all other idler arms (calmini, L&P, braced OE styles etc) If your idler arm is worn out enough it may allow the dogbone end your CL to strike the fram and leave gouges like the ones above.

yes the lifter is cast and machined and then Hardend Higer carbon steel pad is attached to the bearing surface. It sounds like the new lifter may have not been rotating causing it to burn out in one spot or it was inferior pad and wore so it wouldn't turn? when you replaced it did it rotate freely in the lifter journal?

I thought it was great, congrats on quitting. wow red, thats extreme turning! also cranking so high that you need more than 3/8 alignment shims may or may not lead to more problems.(or maybe I'm just too hard on my IFS)

wtf I got 6 email notifactions about this single thread! all sent to me @ exactly 550pm

honestly, I added 1 disc to each side and I thought it was too much on my 31's I could hear them grab up and chirp-chirp arround tight turns so I set it back to stock. Its more time consuming than anything, not hard at all. I will eventually do a compromise where I get 2 discs machined down bfore I add them. I used this as my guide http://home.comcast.net/~xterra/tech/LSD/

take the shine off that old lifter with some 400 grit on a hard flat surface (unless it was the same one that came from that lobe.) did you get a spray or splashing of oil when you ran it w/o covers?

Nope, unless you don't mind a mess... I'd get a steath a scope or lean a dowel to the valve cover and the other end to your ear. this will help you find the culprit thru the cover. How many miles since the lifter change. new lifters will dirty the oil faster after fresh install beacuse they have to break in.

would you use the main bearings on the ebay item?

I highly recomend taking apart your LSD and re-stacking the plates & discs w/d21 style(.|.|.|) as it will nearly double your rear traction compared to the r50 arrangement(.||..|) the parts you need are already in your stock LSD just in a differant order and if its still not enough traction for you, you can and a disc to each side or splurge on a locker.

I thought the gear didn't come off the saft. anyway, I Know for the manual units the tooth count was for calibration of gear and tire ratio to speed. each speedo gear housing whas offset drilled differantly so that they lined up right when you interchange. The elctronic spedo gear should slip in the same way but I don't know if there were differant tooth counts or if the speedo was calibrated electronically.

The CPS should be attached to the base plate of your dizy that connector may be the culpirt hopefully not the acutaul sensor (inside that base). you can inspect the sensor for water damage by taking the cap and rotor off and then unscrewing the samped plate below the rotor. you see a little disc with allot of slots in it. It should be shiney and clean and none of the slots blocked by dirt.

I will when I get arround to shimming the lifters.

lol also the second time it burned the load killed then engine. I guess its time to go. James, did you remove yours?

lol sorry We got a tangent about modfying lifters for Reground cams

is your engine in need of a rebuild? Main bearings requires a full tear-down. These are stock spec parts, I could understand wanting them if they were 10:1 pistons or .060" overbore(VG31) but they're not... the pice is good, I don't know about the quality but do you really need it?

Same bock, differant heads. Too wide to fit between our fenderwells...

Ok so I've had this burnt fusable link for some time and when I replaced it 1 wire burnt again so I replaced again and that same wire went. I followed that wire back to the P.T.C Relay and then to the mixture heater and back to ground. I'm sure There are no other items on this circut. So I put a meeter on the Mixture heater and it was about 1ohm or less is that too little? has it shorted inside the grid? I'm gonna assume that my vehicle has run without it working thru the coldest of the winter with the only side effect being warm up a little richer and a "Stale Chereeos exhuast smell" as one of my co-workers called it lol. anyway I was considering installing a cleanly gutted one for better airflow as I know others have done the same and I'll add a fuel-line heater to help compensate for the lack of mixture heating ablitly its had. What do you guys think? I did some tests and it seems the ECU shuts off the mixture heater once the coolant temp reaches a certain point(aprox 150F). THe rest of the time its just a thick waffle grid stitting below my throttle body. It can't throw any codes because the ECU controls it thru a relay so its in-directly connected.

4x4parts.com I hit the fender when flexing or bottoming out but just barely. I think 1" BL will remedy that for me you have to call and request those but its only $100. most ppl just do a 2" or 3"

I saw the same guide, tho I can't find it anymore. I is simpler than that tho. The guide given was pretty much turning the hydraulic lifter into a solid he had to ajust his shims and check them in the head to make sure the valve would close all the way which is time consuming and repetitive task. My version is allot simpler a little math before hand and a singe action to every lifter. Lets say the radius @ the lowest part of the stock cam is .650"(this is the valve closed position) and @ this postion the cam has put .080" preload on the lifter spring. Now you have a re-ground cam and the lowest radius is .630" and therefore the preload is now only .050" (you follow me, .030" smaller is .030" less preload). so now lets put a .020" shim inside the lifter thus increasing the lifters preload by .020"+the .050" from the cam= .070" Q) so now why aren't we putting a .030" shim in the lifter to restore original preload? A) many reasons but the ones that matter the most; -the tallest part of the lifter may be the same as stock so a compromise will reduce wear @ the lope peak -we are only helping the lifter spring a little so the oil(hydraulic action) can do its job better. We are not replacing the hydraulic action. -preload inside the lifter is constant so less is requred where as preload outside the lifter from cam postion and velociy can be varible. so to sum it up it would be like this (O - R).6=S (Origianl base minus Reground base) times .60" = Shim reccomendation.

10lbs boost on 9:1 pistons I imagine it was pretty quick I hope he only puts premium in it. A larger displacement on the same turbo should make it spool sooner so I bet the power came on allot sooner(and harder) in his 3.3 than when it had a 3.0

Actutally your both right, the PF light is just too big for the HB grille and will not go over them w/o modifacation (see my grille pics) the HB light sits higher in the grille and will not clear the top edge of the pf grille and maybe not that corner. plus the gaps....

the 3.3 is also 9:1 exept the VG33er. and the VQ belhousing pattern is very differant than the VG patter.

google search "jeep tampon"

where is this valve located?