MY1PATH

you may have stretched your Drive CHAIN in your t-case so it skips and rattles on the inside of the caseing jerks to the fwd each time it skips and grabs. Its a $300 chain over here and several guys on N4W have had to replace them which can be done on the vehicle. Search over there for the write up (nissan4wheelers.com) Typically when you get lower gear ratios (2:1 is stock) like 3.7:1 4x4 and 3.9:1 calmini you start to break cv's if you have locker up front and wear out U-joints faster. BUT Lower gears with 33 or smaller tires should not pose any issues for you esp if you don't have a locker. I have also considered getting an atlas case. I like the Idea of a gear driven case that will never need anything other than an oil change. when I opened up my old t-case I discovered my chain was just shy of the too loose mark.(prolly becuase I used to jump my pathy in 4x4). newer TX10 chains (1993-end) wear out faster becase they are narrower so they have less resistance to stretching. I would prolly get 3:1 gears in an atlas if I ever got one. more torqe than stock but still not too overboard for my needs.

3.3 is what I'm starting my next build with. one day... theres a few pathies and HB's that have this done to em.

I been using a 27" on my 89 It would not surprise me if yours was too. also the best way to know TDC on the compression stroke is to take off your upper timing cover and see that the timing mark on the cam pulley is pointing up when you reach TDC becase pointing down in exhaust stroke. Or you can be lazy try it one way and if its wrong trurn it 180 and try again.

Like I said, its a slow burn. If the inital draw on the fan is 60 amps that draw only lasts maybe 0.5-2 seconds. that's not long enough to significantly heat up or weaken a fuseable link. But it only takes a tenth of a second to blow a standard fuse.

nice work I bet you'll get 2-3 more MPG's from the engine not having to work as hard too. I noticed the Oil PS sensor is on your pump now, I'm sure you exteded the harness. was there a plug in the side of the block for the other sensor location? no more oil drips on the starter for you

did the oil ps sensor pop?

Still trying for the end of the month but it MAY not happen till next month. Anyway here's some more stuff for you guys to look at... Lifter shimming; A Hydraulic lifter is shimmed to make up the differance in its designed working range and its new working range. A shim under the lifter spring(what I did) increases spring preload and redcues oil volume under the lifter vavlve. These Mildy promote better retention of oil and preasure inside the lifter during start up shut down and low oil preassure occurances.To be on the safe side do not ever use a shim thicker than 0.032" Under the spring Because it puts the valve at risk of striking the shim causing failure of the lifter. When selecting your shim you want it to be 60-70% of the differance in the radius your cams Base Circle Diameter. So if it was a 1.300" BCD and when you got it back from the grinder it was 1.260" BCD then your differance would be 0.040" and the radus is half of that. So your shim is 60-70% of 0.020"=0.012"-0.14" In my case my 70% shim was 0.020" a 60% shim for me would have been 0.018" but that thickness is not available so I went with the 70% shim I punched some circles out of 0.020" stainless steel and made this video to fill in the rest.... I am having trouble with the youtube tag for embedding the video so here's the link.

the only differance as far as your concerned is removing the timing belt first and the rest of the valvetrain stays put.

The swap was pretty simple remove the ajusting screw remove the base plate install the new base plate drop new dizy in and and mark where it hits the valve cover dent the valve cover aprox 1/4" deep along your mark if you (warm up the paint and use rounded wood or plastic tools so it will not chip) reroute the wire harness on new dizy so it reaches you engine harness align rotor and install new dizzy, plug in harness and spade connector on side of unit (this is not a ground) get custom wires or grab a spare #6 wire from another set. 1,3&5 will reach fine. you will use one #4 wire and two #6 wires to make 2,4&6 reach. The MPFI wires will not all fit because the spark plug boots are too long on #2 & #4 Heres some Before, After and clearnace dent pics

I just installed and MSD ignition system with and MSD Blaster coil. I think the sensor on my old dizy may have been out the door anyway but The MSD WITH COIL made it clear that I should replace more than just the sensor...So I just finished installing a distributor from the MPFI wd21 onto my TBI WD21. THere are some good reasons to do this and some of them are a necessity if running the MSD with a hot aftermarket coil. 1) the TBI Dizy cap is smaller and the points are closer together. this generates more heat inside the cap and acording to MSD more heat means more chance of arc beteen points. I also know that closer points means more chance of arc and you could hear mine doing so insid the cap evertime it misfired. (I woulda been ok If I stuck with the stock coil) 2)The points Crisscross inside the TBI cap to arrange the plugs yes they are sealed but with heat and age micro cracks can develop and then you have arcs and missfires again. I'd rather just have a traditonal tower cap instead of a flat cap. 3) Once the MSD and COIL were in current kept escaping my NEW TBI cap and zaping me and who knows what else But the MSD spark really packs a punch compared to being zapped by the stock system. I have not been zapped at all by the MPFI tower cap setup. 3)MSD with coil started to Melt my NEW TBI rotor. But The MPFI rotor dispates heat better because it has 3x more exposed tip to release heat and the tip is sandwiched in fiberglass to reduce the heat conducted to the plastic. 4) MSD systems are known to wear out caps and rotors faster and the small points on my tbi cap and rotor were already showing it quickily. 5) the base plate for the newer dizzy has and angled ajustment screw making it much easier reach when making timing ajustments. This is not as big of a deal as the things above but it is definte plus

the fuseable link is supposed to be a "slow burn" type fuse so spikes won't blow it but constant overload will. and the wire is pretty soft and frail once the link burns inside... I'd be interested in seeing how your system worked out tho.

like kingman said, link bushings are the place to start. having good shocks too, if it bounces more than 3x when you cycle it you need new ones. But lastly,and doubt it doensn't, does your truck still have a panhard bar? and how are its bushings?

yes they are glass and they don't line up perfect. and there is not any for the rear. If you are good with glass (I work in a professional sheetmetal & composite shop) you can probably turn the bed sides into a nice looking over panel for a 2dr pathfinder by matching up the bodyline, starting @ the back of the door and stopping @ the lights. The 4dr would be harder since the bulge has already started before the end of the back door but mabe a donor pathy skin could be masaged into a wider over panel. either way allot of smooth filling, sanding fill primer, std primer and finally a new topcoat will be required.... lots of custom body work, may or may not be worth it....

the only 'CPS test' I know is the 'injector test' you tried... take your dizy out but leave it pluged in, turn your key to run and then spin dizzy, you should hear an injector clicking in sequence every 60 degrees. You may hear other relays go as well. these are some that your CPS is delivering a signal. If you are looking for a JY dizy with working sensor one can be used out of a maxima as long the part circled in the pic below is from YOUR pathinder. or better yet If you do find a 90-95 dizy send me your spare circled part. http://npora.ipbhost...=0entry475055 good luck! My 89 dizy or CPS recently had an issue where it would run like $#!t untill you leaned on it long enough to Zap you then it would be 'ok' for the duration of the drive.

that sounds like what happened when my injectors started leaking. It didn't spray that far but you could hear it trickle down the headders after you shut off the engine. any injector codes?

You shouldn't get any abnormal exhuast unless you put it thru a vaccum line. Feed it thru a vacum line, about 4-6 oz, little by little @ first and then fast towards the end so it starts to stumble and then kill it for 10 min. start it up, I may start rough and drive it hard to blow all the crap out.

Is the tps supposed to be unplugged when you check the timing? Higer octane would allow you to advance your timing but all your really doing is covering up another problem. A seafoam treatment(or atf or water thru a vaccum line) may clear up deposits. if you get anything other that white smoke you prolly did some cleaning ' ...There are many mixed opinions weather or not to use these cleaning methods. Lastly, some people have made the mistake of thinking the first timing mark is -5(or +5) so when they set 15 they are actually setting it to 20(or 10).... the first timing mark is "0"

very odd. mine struggles to Idle @ 10 deg. I been pushing the 15 deg mark for some time now. Could there be an exessive build up of carbon deposits inside your combustion chamber? Hows your spark plugs?

what defines your hoohaa is the taper of your tie rod ends, not your seering box. So you would order the same hoohaa with or without the newer box. You could just change your box seals. the pitman seal is easy once you get the pitman off (gotta take it off to drill it anyway) and the input shaft is a little tricky because theres not much room to work. As far as the manual steeing box there is a thread on that. the manual pitman is shorter but the splines are the same as the older Power pitman (it looks smaller because the nut is smaller but it is the same). so; Manual box + 87-92 Power Pitman= good to go

once set you may find that your stock springs have sagged rear can be measured as E-S= H E = measure ground to the center of the bolt on the stock sway-bar end S = measure ground to the center of the sway-bar anchor on the axle H = Your "ride height" +/- 0.375" of zero means you sitting stock. Negitve numbers beyond that Indicate ammount of coil sag. And yes in this case Positive numbers are a close indicator of total lift in the rear

tires will not matter if factory method is used. This method also allows for leveling left to right. A-B=H B = measure ground to bottom of stering stopper bracket on front side of LCA A = measure ground to center of LCA spindle bolt. H = your "ride height" for that side. on level ground H on left and right should be set the same Factory spec for H is 1.73-1.89 So basically if you want you pathy to sit stock ajust your T-bars on level ground untill H= 1.75 on both sides. WARNING! Increasing H by 1" will give you MORE THAN 1" lift. total lift should be measured as "New A" minus "OLD A" while using the same tires and level ground for each measurement.

I had 1 extra disc (each side)in my LSD and arround sharp turns It pretty much acted like it was welded. I took them out but one day I may get the extra disc machined down and try again.

Pop the gas cap too, that way you will have less fuel trying to creep its way out of the hose while you get the other hose off and the new filter in.

yes but watch out, if you dump your clutch in low range on the one below you may twist a driveshaft...

Ok heres a book on some tests you can do... they are pretty simple but take a little time. Sometimes a transistor goes out and few people know about these or sometimes it doesn't do its job and it can damage the coil. Other times a coil with the wrong resistance can cause a transistor to fail. these are not very common problems in our rigs but it won't hurt to test them. When doing the transistor test make sure the key is turned on or you will not get any results. If the transistor checks out move on to the coil tests... After coil test #1 the FSM would tell you to move on but I reccomend you try test #2 (not in fsm)because its possible that the resitances and windings behave differantly under load. Transistor test: (that finned thing next to the coil)Do this With a full battery or battery over 12v of charge(preferably 12.5 or higher) only testing black and blue wries going in and out. Disconnect your coil and measure the voltage from the transitor plug (Black+ & Blue-) between the terminals you should get near 12v Betwen the + terminal and battery/chasis ground you should also get near 12v. Results below should help diagnose problem; -12v is present only between + termial and battery/chasis ground then the transistor ground may be bad (check ground before transistor) ...-if ground before transistor is good but bad after the transistor then the transistor ground is bad (replace transistor) -If 12v is present you transistor is good.(check wires to coil, plug wires, Cap, Cap Points, rotor, rotor button & Plug gap) -If less than 12v is present(remember full battery) or no voltage is present then you should check the power going into the transistor.(below) ...-Battery voltage going in means transitor is bad and creating weak or ignition(replace transistor) ...-low voltage or no voltage means you have a wiring problem before the transitor creating weak or no ignition.(check more wires) -If more than 12v is present than your transistor is bad and it may have damged your coil.(replace transitor and check coil) were differant transistors used on the wd21 made by hanshin and by hitachi there may be specific tests for each or they might all test the same(with reguards to the other wires goning into the transistor). I did not post these tests because I dind't know Coil Test: inspect your coil for cracks or signs of abuse. If damged it can short out before it even reaches your spark plugs. Test #1 -check for continuity between the 2 coil harness terminals(the thing on the meeter that beeps when you close a circut). if you have no continuity your primary winding is broken(replace coil) -check for ohms (horse shoe) between the +/- termnals. It should be near 1 Ohm (stock coil) ...-if it is less (0-.7 Ohms) then the pimary winding is bad(replace coil) ...-if it is more* (over 1.5 ohms) secondary resistance may be too high (replace coil) -check for ohms (horse shoe) between each(+/-) termnal and the plug wire side of the coil. It should be near 10 k Ohms (stock coil) ...-if it is less (0-.6 k Ohms) then the secondary winding is bad(replace coil) ...-if it is more* (over 10 k ohms) secondary resistance may be too high (replace coil) *no reading on ohm meter indicates open circut or resistance too high to measure. You can use a spare coil connector from a JY pathy to splice into the coil for testing... setup for test #2: connect coil+(black) to a true 12v source like the transitor or a GOOD battery chaged to 11.7-12.5(weak batteries may show voltage but will lack the ammount of current) connect coil- (blue) to a wire with an exposed end (you will 'tap' this end to ground) Install good plug wire into coil (solid core wires are ok for this test)and place the other end 1/32 to 1/16(0.031-0.060) from a common ground (not the transitor ground) Remeber spark plug gaps for the VG range from . 031-.045 (depending on year) so really trying to test beyond .055" pointless. Test#2: tap your exposed -wire to ground(not transitor ground) keeping it more than 1" from the end of coil plug wire. when you pull away it should spark and your plug wire near ground should spark too. Your plug wire spar should be blue or blue white when near the .031 range it may appear yellow or not at all if in the .055+ range. If your coil wire cannot produce a blue spark it may have bad or shorted windings inside the coil (replace coil) If it cannot produce a spark it may have broken windings or shorted ground inside. In both cases a replacement is required.