MY1PATH

Good to know, maybe payday I'll order a set. Wifes complaining she's gonna need steps soon So I'm gonna get her some "steps" and angle them up 1/2 as much. Do you have any BL on your rig? IF not, how close are they to that lower rocker seam? more than 1/4"? I was thinking about a 1" BL to give them some more room since the seam is 2" above the bottom of the frame and the tubing is 1.75"

aside from the rears bolts being diffcult before hand(cold get worse) I think it sounds like a good idea. mabe ad some gussets where the mount sticks above the frame too.

x2 and would you be able you add a set of gusset legs to an order or do i have to go to trail-gear for those? edit: ok 65LBs from CA, thats about $45 cool!

I think I have 2 on the fenderwall by the battery. Horn and Stater...

FYI you can order it direct from redline over the internet. I usually see my redline package in 2days(CA to WA) And I always buy the gallon containers of MT90 and 75w90 gear oil. You can also get two 90* elbows from the hardware store and make a raised fill neck that meets the height of the TSB. The fill hole and fill plug matches 3/4" pipe thread nicely

I would align it first then get tires. Or your tires will start of with a bad wear pattern real quick. get a Degree level and a flat bar that can span your rim... the factory spec is -0.50* to 1.25* negitive being where you are now /--\ and postive being out \--/ stock height geometry moves negtive when you go up and down in the suspension. Lifted geometries go positive when the wheel goes up and negetive when the wheel goes down. Because of this I think you should say in the 0.0* to 0.75* range... get it close and then have a shop check only because their rack is more acureate then go home an make ajustments as needed. once dialed in have a shop to toe and center only. And thats how I do it using a lifetime alignment and not letting anyone ajust the uca bolts but me. BTW your gonna have trouble getting them |--| with stock UCA's and 3" lift. Might I suggest you try 1.5-2" so you can run a leser number of washers and be safer? there is also a factory spec on how many aligment shims (washers) and its 3/8" I'd worry if you used more than an 1/2"

I change my Diffs, t-case and Tranny fluid every 2 years or less. If I do I multiple water crossings in a day or spend some time in deep mud I Will check my fluids for water penitration. LSD fluids contain friction modifiers that keep the clutch-type discs inside the unit from grinding eachother smoth (thus creating an open Diff) Without these additives the LSD would grip more but quite possibly wear out quickly (and then become a constant slip dif or CSD lol) The use of lsd fluid has no benifit or drawback In an open diff because the friction moidfiers apply mainly to abrasive & shear forces by coating the discs. If you want to run the same fluid in your open front as your rear LSD feel free to run the LSD fluid without cosequece.

don't forget, between sips, to to wet the gasket with some oil and maybe pour a few ounces into the filter,(but not so much that you pour it back on your sarter) EDIT, james you meant Drink right? lol

no tips, I never had trouble with it. those with body lifts say you can reach thru the wheel well. consider yourself lucky; I did one on a ford where it was on the bottom but just above the front Diff. If you can see it you can't reach it and if you can reach it you can't see it so the job is done 100% by feel while you reach between the dif and crossmember with one hand. It was a pain!

if you run 75w90 yes and maybe 80w90. any thicker and you'll want to keep the thinner stuff in your tranny.

No, those are the calmini. VERY BEEFY. and some rust because they didn't prep their powdercoat. they have other shortcomings as well...

I think it was 15-20 bucks in parts for some peace of mind on steep nose in approaches. Eventually I'm going to tie it into a small scoop on the cowl vent but the Hood Hinge is in the way so I been trying to think arround that one for a while.

I happened to have my fender off today so here's some pix of what I was talking about...

yes, royal purple is dual spec I also prefer redline MT90 its formulated specifcally for imports and soft bronze/ brass cyncros(our trannys) plus there is not such thing as cold shifts once you swich to redline. thats performance you can feel

Used redline 75w90 gl5 It is super smooth and is classified as an MPG saving oil on some sites. Little pricey but If its gonna be in there for 2 years better make it good right? yes I'd do it again and again and again.(actually it got redline in both diffs, tranny & t-case)

gocha, traped pocket of air and the resonators have to fill up somewhat before it gets sucked up. then the water evaporates from the resonators during normal driving and the vapors harmlessly and slowly get sucked up.

I thought I had run it a few times when I had the stock setup. I could be remebering wrong... Its also possible that your engine is stitting a little differant on the frame. I know mine sits a little to the left and I had clearance issues with my rag joint clamp hitting my headers because of it.

yeh, that Purolator Pure One is the #1 but currently not redily availble here. The Bosch is #2 and is always available in multiple stores as well as #3 mobil one. yes, most FRAM oil filters these days are crap but the FRAM Tough Guad retains enough good qualities to make #6 on my list. if anybody is wondering what my list is, its a group of 6 compatible oil filters ordered by quality that fit the wd21 but are about 1" longer(more voulume and less restriction due to larger filter element). here is the list and part #'s for the taller filters. #1) Purolator PureONE - PL20195 2) Bosch - 3422 3) Mobil 1 - M1209 4) K&N - HP2009 5) Motorcraft - FL400S 6) FRAM Tough Guard – TG3600 (all other FRAM filters are inferior) they fit in the stock location with stock manifolds and I think they might fit with headders too. I have a remote kit now and thats why I don't know if they fit with headders.

the old one, I cut the wires off and slipped a 12 point box end over it. I got it loose 10 degrees at a time took the wrench off and mashed my fingertips against it till it fell out. the new one, I put in by hand and maybe put 10-20 deg of tighening on it after with the open end side. having an open 5 side or an open 9 side would have been handy.

the fender should have a plastic liner in place to reduce corrosion from road spray. It would prolly cover the tube as well.

something about FRAM filters... I put mine on hand tight and they always require allot of force coming off 3k miles later... I imagine if I put them on tighter I would not be able to get them off.... I switched to bosch for now anyway. they seem to come back off fine.

I don't know where the R50 intake is, I assumed it pulled it in from the inside of the fender like the d21 but if it is in the engine bay that tarp will only save you from splashes thru the front. if your tube goes below the waterline you'll still take in water... If you don't want a true snorkel you can always just run a pipe up the inside of the fender so it takes air in from door side of the fender. this is about 1/4 the effort required and you should not have to cut holes in anything.then you are safe from nose in approches as long as that corner by your door doesn't get submerged.

PIAA's only downfal (IMO) is the price. those lights there retail for like $280 I have seen PIAA take some abuse and they seem to hold their own pretty well.

its not an on off swich, its variable and 170 is where it should start to open. this way it can reach and equilibrium between thermostat postion and amount of fan clutch engagement too keep the engine cool. You could have a no thermostat and the engine would still over heat without a fan. At the same time if the fan is keeping the radiator below 160F than a 170 thermostat will not allow the eginge to go hotter thatn 170. hell a 180 keeps an LS1 engine @ ~200 deg the older model guages werebuilt etirely differant. the fuel and temp on mine can be calibrated by turing a contact srew inside the unit. the newer ones are 'fixed' by a constant voltage regulator. if that regulator is failing your guages may be off or in other cases they just go haywire. anybody remember where the voltage regulator thread is?

yes,the MPFI pathfinders have the guage and the ecu sensors in the coolant neck. I belive the threaded hole(does not enter the waterjacket) is still there on the newer vg's so if you wanted the ecu to read the cyl head temp you could prolly move it there.