MY1PATH

Look @ your lower control arms. if they slope inward toward the frame at all, you should tighten them and then get an alignment. if they are parallel to the ground or just barely sloped down toward the wheel then you are sitting stock and an alignment will help preserve your steering components. Before aligning Make sure its level left to right by using the ride height measuring guie I posted.... ... somewhere... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25794&view=findpost&p=474169

next time get some timeserts. thats how I fixed mine. Unlike heli coils they are permenant locking and designed for repeated use. Once set they will not fall thru nor will they back out. http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

I guess thats not to bad asside from having 8 bolts to undo each filter cleaning. and hey u got it free right? I think its funny you used a spectre adapter when they make the compeeting product I was talking about.

I'm a vote again that you look into some 15x8" rims. safely wider and not as much extra stress.

your tires will do that no-matter what t-bar you use. You need to align them after lifting. typically tires go top in when you crank the bars for a lift (LCA sloping down toward wheel) so yours musta been sagged so much they were top in (LCA sloping down toward frame)and the PO had it aligned like that. so when You brought it up to level(LCA parallel to ground) they went top out because of the previous alignment. I am very happy with my stock t-bars and may not get anything differant unless I add bumpers and winches up front.

lol we have some really expensive spray guns... this ones my favorite & I think it cost more than my yamaha; http://www.duxarea.com/gravityfeed.htm prolly buy a paint job for less than that tho.

@ first glance here is my impression. CryO2 is to intercooler as 12v turbo fan is to supercharger

REMEMBER nissan spec... for shims is 3/8" max and this is a number I would not fool arround with. maybe go 1/2" on one if all the others are within 3/8" Shims... easy to install to get it right, easy to fall out after some abuse allowing to the spinlde to batter the bolt which batters the threads on the frame. Washers... Once alginged with shims(get done quicker) use the same thickeness in washers. Start by using HARDENED Wasehers then regular thin 1 or 2 to get it exact. the hardened washers will not compress or deform so your bolt stays tight for longer. Bolts... the stock bolt is a 55mm pilot tip (also called body bolt) this means the last ~5mm of the bolt are narrowed and not threaded. A regular cut 60mm bolt will therefore give you 10mm more threads and is safely useable. 65mm or longer will bottom out on the frame if minimal shims are used. The use of 10.9 (grade 8 equiv) is contraversial for reasons I will not list in this quick tip but I will say that I use them and I think they are good. Torque... once your washers are in torqe to 75-100 fltlbs. The spec is 80-108 but also consider shims give more than wahsers and hardend washers do not give at all. Check these bolts at least every oil change esp if you are right @ 3/8" or wheel your pathy.

NO WAY, the Nissan auto interals are quite differant than the Warn aftermarket locking hub.

its pretty hard to mess up the gears in the TX-10 the fact of the matter is with auto hubs your front driveline and the t-case gear attached, are stationary and when you pull the lever back you are trying to pick up motionless gears with one thats moving. that is what makes the grinding. If you do it under coast or no load it picks up a little easier. with locking hubs(or auto's that are stuck or not been dis-engaged) your drivline and gear match the speed of the road and as lonng as your rear is turning @ the same rate (not slipping) moves to 4h & back can be very smooth and seamless. Hell with hubs locked I have gone in and out of 4h @ over 55mph

with 235/70r15 & smaller it can(the wheels will be hiding in the fenders). and the camber looks just as bad this low as it does when its overcranked. A big fat lady owns a much neglected pathy not to far from me.

after I did my 3" springs in back my stock rear shocks would go CLACK after each bump as they topped out. It was not long b4 I heard PING CLACK CLACK CLACK. the internals had had it I was now riding and unchecked spring lol. I got some rancho's that are a few inches longer.

in 4L I can get both front wheels off the ground.

I think those spline rings can also be bought seperate from warn. they offer a weaker set that is meant to break before your CV does so that you can change it quickly on the trail and finish your day and or get home easy(er). I don't know if the "strong" rings that come with the hub are available but the "breakable" rings are pretty cheap IIRC.

I think those spline rings can also be bought seperate from warn. they offer a weaker set that is meant to break before your CV does so that you can change it quickly on the trail and finish your day and or get home easy(er). I don't know if the "strong" rings that come with the hub are available but the "breakable" rings are pretty cheap IIRC.

"1" wheel adapters" is what you are looking for. they bolt to your hub with low profile lugs and have studs sticking out from them for your wheel. For the rear they will work fine but IMO for the front I am afraid they will put addittional stress on the IFS. if this is a street only rig by all means this will be fine but other wise I would reccomend finding a set of 15x8 wheels in a similar style (you have 15x7). 15x8 will get you wider but the center of your footprint will change half as much as it would with spacers thus reducing unwanted stress.

you posted 3x!!!!!!!!!!!

looks good how did you get a "stock body lift" (I know, the body sits 1.5" higher on the trucks but its the mounts not the spacers)

that and the legs for the wing are hollow inside so they are actually weaker than they look, (don't use the wing to catch your balance) so some nice solid ones would be nice. aren't your wings differant over there?

negative, always the negative first. then exesess engergy(capacators, windings etc) have nothing to jump to.

by "learn" I mean that when there is a change in how much air is allowed into the engine the maf picks up that differance and allows more fuel in. It doesn't get the fuel ratio perfect right away (actually these engines never get perfect 14.7:1) but it starts creating new air-fuel maps to respond to every thing you go when diving and all this gets checked by the o2 sensor when you reach a high enough rpm. so yes, they are a "learning" type ECU.

actually they stay about average. their label has 2 figures on it, the lower figure is the actual wattage(heat byproduct) and the higher figure is the output equivelant. Its kinda like when you buy a 13watt flourecent bulb to replace your 60watt incondesant in your desk lamp. PIAA makes amazing products, durable, functional but not the most affordable lol because you are also paying for a name. now my cheapo autolumination bulbs 80/100 are very hot.

Here you go same deal ajusted for inflation. http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/9004+Xtreme+White+Plus/part_number=19014/353.0.1.1.15834.0.0.0.0? $18.75ea ($37.50) vs $93.85

been there done that and as you can see I don't have it anymore. Good luck getting a fan that blows over 300 CFM

PIAA x-treme white are pretty decent. Last time I bought them direct from the PIAA website but here's the catch, @ the time I bought 2 single packs for $16 each($32 total) instead of the twin pack for $80. Same bulbs but less than half the price. I have also used the dirt cheap 80/100w found on autolumination.com your not paying for a name and they last about average. Acutally I have only been using these since wireing, housing and relay upgrade. So ya they seem the brightest becuase I have not seen any other bulbs in this setup yet lol. Maybe I'll get another set of PIAA and find out... Every time I got sylvania silverstars or silverstar ultra's they would go in a very short time but that may have been an electical issue back then.