MY1PATH

PB Blast rocks! Tell your dad to buy you some (and to get his own) lol I actually have a bent bar, fell on a rock. Everything still lines up. It would have to be bent quite a bit more than mine and if it was you would blind not to notice.

loosten those 3 bolts so that the plate can wiggle a little. the spines are very precise and even so much as 1/2 degree of deflection in that area will make them harder to slide in.

It will fit but I don't know if the intake PCV hose is the same or if its even there. I honestly think denting your existing cover to clear the larger Dizy is the solution. It can be done in place so that saves ALLOT of time. lemie see if I can find my original thread.... Here ya goes; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25870&st=0&p=475362&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=475362

pathys with 31's came the same as pathys with other sizes. sometimes steering stops were ajusted. Many shipped with 31's had a 17t or 18t spedo gear (depending on 4.3 or 4.6 gears) But if they were upgraded @ the dealer (like my sport package in 89) the dealer usually DID NOT correct the speedo gear. As a result there are allot of Pathys on 31+ out there running a 19t, 20t or 21t... speedo gear(235/75r15 and smaller tires(27"))

the insulation is what may have melted. The hose itslef is not likely to melt.(system on its 27~40f) but chafed on the MC till it leaked yes. see if a shop arround you can fix it with a splice or a swage fitting. That is the only relyable way to fix it without replacing it. and lileky a fraction of the cost. Our system is large. It will likely take 2 or 3 large cans to fully charge it after the repair. Or the shop doing the repair might be able to recharge it.

It wouldn't hurt to replace the whole Cable Assy since its 19 yrs old. 4x4parts has upgraded charging harnesses. Otherwise I'd say just go to your local parts store and buy new terminal clamps. slit the old clamps off with a dremel cutting wheel. dip the wire in some flux and melt it in with a torch( try to use the radiant heat below the flame so the copper doesn't blacken). then wire brush it and crimp the new leads on

cut your inner fenders out and try not to burn your tires when you turn.

sry to burst bubles but Stillen has a cold air intake kit for the mpfi pathys. Might be worth a look. http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=STIHIFLW01&c=PE&year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFIND

HB body mounts are 1.5" higer. It might work, and if you have a 2" BL its very likely to work.

Here they are! Out as far as the fenders which makes them aprox 2" wider than the door frame I tried to match the lower angle of the rocker and give standing room for roof acess. still gettin used to em, step over em vs step on em gettin in. A 1" BL is is the future so I am sure they will work out even better then. More here; photobucket.com/albums/y4/ghj018/MY1PATH/Sliders/

GG you confuesed him, he already got that one. the one on the bracket is acessed from underneath or from above(I prefer under) Its on the bottom left (or just bottom if you belt is short) of the bump and there are no pulley holes for it just losten it up so it can slide inward in its ajusting slot.

My sliders are on. pics coming soon. (figured I'd keep it all in one place instead of starting new)

one more. the is a Nut on the tensioner facing foward. Its what holds the the piece your first bolt went thru to the backet itslef.

yup

YES! MSD can cause troubles and personal injury as I have learned first hand lol (ZAP!) The points on the TBI cap are close togeher. this can lead to misfires and stuttering when upgrading to a system like MSD. ESPECIALLY if you use an aftermarket coil in adition to the system. The solution Is to get a 90-95 pathfinder dizy(need to change base plate too) and drop it in.( the whole thing is larger so arcing is more dificult.) the vavle cover needs to be dented or swapped for it to fit and the wire clip on the new dizy needs removed so the plug will reach your harness. but the plug and sensor inside are the same. Search my posts for more info... this may not cure you but it will help you narrow things down and prevent future issues.

well a bearing, esp a Main will render your vehicle un driveable quicly as the things come out of banlance... In this order I reccomend checking things out... Loose timing cover bolt hitting the balancer or loose balancer hitting timing bolt Really loud lifter hold a rod to the base of your ear and the other end to your valve cover and see if you can pinpoint a loudest location. Valves. Ya know; compression check. few oz of tanny fluid on the low cyl to be certain its the valve causing the low # and not the rings. Timing belt. If its off by 2(or 3 I cant remember) teeth it may tap the pistion but you'd also have other probems. 3 or more and it would defenitely bend.

Timing advance is a constant starting @ 1,100RPM It reaches a total advance of 30degrees @ 4,500RPM (yep a motor that revs to 6~7k runs out of advance 1/2 way to redline.**) The advance is controled electronically so our rotor has a wide sweep, unlike centrifugal or vacum type units that use a narrow rotor. If there is a knock or poor ratio detected the ECU Retards 5 degrees from whatever position it is on the advance curve. It also applies this same fixed retard when the engine is warming up. This is TBI and MPFI 1st gens. I do not know if 3.3 is differant. **this works well for turbo motors becuase as preasure rises from High RPM spool you need less advance anyway.

Out of production for years. some surface on forums or ebay. speaking of which. I wonder what happend 2 beast path... did he make a deal with somone or did he just diasappear b4 selling?

Just to clarify, When I say puddle I do not mean wash out as deep as the wheels. My Deep "puddles" are no higher than the hubs. Snorkels are great for deep washouts and crossings. If you don't want to go all the way you can do a partial like mine. Since most the splash goes up the front of the fender you'll get allot less water in the engine. And on nose in approaches you intake will never be the lowest part.

A splash O watter will make it run rough and sputter. the best thing you can do, If you only got a splash (no slaping or pinging sounds), Is drive it and keep the rpms above 3k rpm and it will clean out (literally).(don't rev it exessively, just keep the rpms up and be easy enough on the pedal to get it moving @ the rate thats it) Now if it had died you I would reccomend pulling the plugs and turn it over to pump the water out. If there was sounds of slaping or pining something mechanical happened and It should be shut off and towed. Sounds like you will be ok, Your pathy might even be running better before. It takes a surprising amount to killl a pathy and even more to do damage. Take it slow arround water and you should be fine. I've sucked some up several times and everytime it clears up and has some extra Kick for about 10-15 min after its cleared up.

The bumpers usually last the life of the vehcile but if yours have been in harsh conditions and show some dry rot then it wouldn't hurt. There is a how-to on this which I am sure you have read. Have your BFH ready!

A pain to install but you can get a Diff drop kit from rugged rocks. It lowers your diff by 3/8 or so to reduce CV stress.

x2 Stock clutches are the best option for the pathfinder. Look over on N4W if you don't belive me. Manya a person has burned thru a centerforce all too quick.

If your gonna heilicoil You might as well take it up a size and use VG33 studs (10mm) The stock mainfold (and aftermarket headers) will fit over them fine and you will never have to worry about them again.

You'll be more than safe Also, uing upper BJ shims has the same effect on CV's as Low Pro Bumpstops because they both increase maximum drop.