MY1PATH

The larger diameter tire requires more torque to turn but also gives more miles per revolution. going to 4.6 (from 4.3) provides some extra torque and reduces miles per revolution. The demand for troque is what brings down your MPGs also, say your going 35mph with 31's in 3rd gear; your rpms are about 2500 with 3.3 gears and will be closer to 28~3000 with the 4.6. 2 things happen here, your vehcle produces more torqe at the higher range and the o2 sensor takes full control of Air Fuel Ratio when above 2800rpm (o2 when working properly is more accurate and efficent) This is difficult to grasp because allot of people think that High rpms = poor mpg. The truth is that cruising 3500rpm and 10% throttle opening will use less gas than crusing 2500rpm and 100% throttle opening.

when you step on the gass the engine shifts right if the mounts are busted and your acceleranting hard it may also shift back. In the same situation when you let off the gas the engine shifts left and foward.(possibly pushing the lever out of gear) a rebuild would include bearings too because its the heat from the ill lubricated bearing that caused the syncro to stick.

a filter like our oem has more surface area to get clogged before flow gets restricted.

or 4"

if it is the motor mounts cutting the floor is a bandaid yes but the mounts aren't that bad to change (as in I've seen worse) I'd actually recomend doing it yourslef. a jack, a few wrenches and a ~2ft long 2x4 will cost allot less then a shop that might try to pull the engine to change em so so they can get more $$$$ out of you.... shave slight curve into one end of the 2x4 an push it up against the acessory bracket for the alty(not the tensioner or alty itslef) put the jack under that and losten the motor mount jack a little more pop the torn mount out and the new one on. If needed, repeat the same on the Power steering bracket (not the tensoiner or pump itslef) to do the passenger other side. Tranny pad mount is even easier.

for starters find my TBI thread in the pinned section, it will explain allot. if its not there take a picture and I will figure it out by examining and testing my spare parts.

any noise? the fill plug on the manual trannys was about an inch too low resulting in insufficient cover of the bearings (mostly 5th) symptoms of the related wear include poping out of gear (1, 3,5), whine in those same gears and sticking syncros...

a magnet could have told you that. among many other things...

all years of wd21 and d21 (hardbody) fenders bolt up. Good luck finding a good pair in a JY. I searched for years before finding a good pair of d21 fenders for my pathy project.

yes, the engines are vg30e and vg30i D21 is the chasis number for the pickup and many belive the W in WD21 (pathy chasis) stands for wagon. the HP figures are redudnant. they are on wikki, they are on here many times and they are on many other nissan forums. How about a "HI my name is shooter and here is a pic of my rig..."? those never get old, welcome to NPORA

YES, close the door seal all the gaps and climb in thru the window.

the supercharger on the vg33er will bolt up to a vg30 heads. the castings are differant but all the ports, bolts, valves etc are in the same place. The vg33er uses an eaton m62 and I believe the eaton m90 will also bolt up. If you do this may I recomend you top off the oil on the SC (m62) before you install it. this is done with the snout facing skyward and removing the fill plug and impossible to do on the vehicle unless you hang it by the front bumper. this will keep it quieter longer.

IMO 15X10 is too much stress on the IFS, but then again 33's are hard on it too. make sure to upgrade your steering. Grass roots 4x4 has the upgraded link you will need and an Idler brace or a dummy stering box in its place will also be needed. (I prefer the dummy stering box as it is far stonger) 3.75/ 4.0 are both Ideal for 15x8 4.0 is what you want for 15x10 if you wheel with those 33x12's on 15x10 you may eventually want to consider to doing a SAS.

hey now, be careful, find a synthetic that says it is compatible with conventional oils on the label and run that for an oil change before you run anything else in it. When mixed, some non-compatible synthetics will do this thing under heat and preassure where the polymers (what control multi viscosity oil ie 10w30, 5w30 etc) break down and then reform together in LONG chains (more like clumps) that you don't want cloging your engine and somewhere on here a member posted a nasty pic of what those nasty clumps look like....

I didn't get the free labor part. but it was a free part.

nice find! those are nolonger in production, enjoi

um sorry to rain on your parade but if you put 3" anything on that exhaust system you are not gonna be happy except for maybe near redline. stock is 1.875" 2" and 2.25" are good choices and 2.5" is getting large. Even if you have 2" going into your 3" cat and muffler the sudden expansion followed by the re-compression of the freshy cooled gasses(cause they cool and SLOW DOWN when they expand) is gonna create a turbulance situation. Sorry to hear you already bought the components before checking.... On the bight side, nice avatar.

I think I read here that x-mass tree lighting the cluster is a sign of bad alty OR bad VR in the cluster.

My poor dad bought a driver side one 4 me. Not long after I went and got a free passger one direct from the stealership, slow retracting was the only problem.

me too, mines hidden as in stops by the mirror and doesn't show

A new OE clutch will do you better. check on N4W if you wanna see ppl who have tried the ceterforce and went back to the nissan clutch

thanks 4 thinkin anyway B. But I would need a FEDERAL TBI ECU for my 5spd.

keep your pipes 2-2.25" and you shouldn't have any issues. but if you aren't running any cats or baffled mufflers i'd say just plain 2" is good.

I know allot of 300zx that recieved the same nissan 5 spd and have been pushed to over 300 ftlbs and much more in HP. The only differance is the tail of the housing goes to a t-case instead of directly to the output shaft and the gear ratios inside. And the gears inside were prolly still cut and mfgr'd the same way in the same factory.

well your eyes and know where to look will varify the egr temp sensor. and the ca models using differant fuel maps for emissions, I don't remember where I read that. maybe a 300zx site. I have yet to plug a federal ecu into my cali model and see for myself but I will one day.