MY1PATH

is the keyway on the crank worn? the Key should fit in snug. A slight wobble at low rpm is normal for these engines, some say its consequece of having such a long snout. the Banacer increases effectiveness under speed. rev the engine lightly, you should see it smooth out fairly quickly and then resume its little jig once it slows down. Id you really wanna see it dance turn your idle down to 300rpm (yes mine ran that low) [warning there is not sufficient oil preassue under 500rpm]

Um a line lock on the rear line goin down the frame would be much easier. I'm tellin ya, flip left and right axles and the cables will be much less snag ready but then again a line lock would be snag proof.

if one above is as good as I think it is, it may be the one. everyone else I talked to seemd pretty sketchy or there were tiedous things wrong(normal things I just don't like doing it 2x lol) R50's can't be had for under $4k arround here so, sorry pezzy, they are ruled out.

I rear disc Is a very easy swap if you have a donor,(finding one can be hard) you can keep your e-brake, you just need to put spacer blocks on the brackets mounted to the body so they have more slack when your axle drops. OR better yet, since you are pulling axles, swap left for right when you put them back in (cables will need to stay on their respective sides) then the parking brake cable will run to the top side of the axle instead of the bottom side. this takes them higher off the ground and gives you all the room you need for axle drop.

awesome!

Prolly not; no matter how low it is the bumpstops are still in the same place and 235/60r15 is about 4" (3" for 235/75)smaller than a 31x10.50's on my 2dr and its only an inch too tall @ full bottom out (which means my 2dr needs a 1" BL) not to mention, family car will not see as many big dips and my 2dr esp being lower and having street tires.

yes beefy is good but. how are the tire-rods? I do like that the joints reduce the overall rod angle too. the added stiffness and reduced angle means less slop under travel. I thought about doing that but, what becomes the next weak link if the tie rods are bullet proof? I like the Idea of bending or breaking a tierod because it hopefully means someting else didn't what do you think?

Hey thanks for the pictures. would you say your messed up passenger side was about an inch lower? the drivers rear looks a little high for 235's but I like the way the pasenger side looks. one more day till the weekend I can start seeing some of the pathy's I've called about this week.

Parts? what would you need to complete the second system? Since it is discontinued and I don't like the remote...

If you notice in your own quote I said to the wheels. there is some power loss when you go thru a transmisson, t-case, driveshaft, diff, axles and then finally to the wheels. over 230 BHP would be the goal with over 260ftlbs @ the crank but I'm not gonna do an engine dyno I'm going to do a chasis dyno.

I thought I had an rms leak... when I did my cams I discovered that the rear cam bolt cover plates on the back of the head were leaking. the oil runs down the back of the block and dripps right where you would think and RMS would drip from. they are much easier to remove and re-seal than the RMS so check that out first.

there is also a perfect 90 4dr with a cracked block for only $900 and somone else with an r50 3.3 for $500 ($1400) if only I had everything else I needed for the swap...

That varies from cam to cam. If it increases power without incresaing effieciency it will kill it. Or it may only kill a certain range. For example. long duration cams generally reduce low rpm efficency (eurospec being the exeption due to its low lift and early intake event) and thus city mpg goes down but at the same time Higway MPG may increase becasue the overlap (if degreed properly) can create whats called a Natural EGR Effect which increases the efficency while still povding the power when you open the throttle more. The other factor that happens is increased CYL preassure and the 2 combined help Higway MPG. This is just one example out of many. Each cam is diffeant and can meed diffeant needs for power, fuel or both... There is allot of information out there if you know where to look and read I spent over a year on it before making my own cam which was good, but prolly would have been better if it had been ground correctly. wow think I threadjacked my own thread lol anway I think I will be looking at a 94 with 217k and only 1 owner this weekend. $2700 clean no rust (as far as I know) new manifolds in the past 3 yrs (hopefully their mechanic used 300zx turbo studs) regular maitainece... http://seattle.craig...1949272669.html anybody know how to change speedo ratios for tires on the electronic guages? Is it a nissan part, variable resistor or will I need a signal box from summit?

the gear ratios inside are slightly differant but everything else on the v6 tranny was is the same.

funny when it flipped over when the turbulance hit it.

yes, that's what I want. the new ones have 9 settings, and I want to put a panel just below the inter lock swich guages lined up vertical to show front and rear.

for some reason I think the clutch safety swich is part of the ingniton systems and not part of the ECU systems... But If you've already looked into that and found I'm wrong then nevermind...

because the ealy 80's mpfi was a little buggy and the 260's dual & tripple carb setups were not so great but the 240 single carb (since I would start with a clean 240 and swap blocks) had the best fuel delivery of the 3 models. I seen 260 and 280 guys go to single carbs and be very happy with it. and yes ther is plenty of room for a turbo under those hoods.

1 its fun 2 max advance happens(+30deg iirc) @ ~4500rpm BUT with a turbo; as boost increases you need less advance so max advance happens later and power can reach higer rpms. (hence the 70~7500 RPM LIMITS)

ok, not 215's I meant 235/60r15 as opposed to 235/75r15 the reason to lower it is so that it does not look as akward with the fenderwell gaps on the small tires. I still want 4x4 cause we road trip to cali every year and MY1PATH made good use of its 4x4 thru the pass so might as well have it on the 4dr too. also the 3.3 cams do not do much for fuel savings, I was thinking of the eurospec cams since they get the better higway MPG (KpL converted) than the Us vg30 and about the same city.

not to mention there will Be a STRUT in the way of the CV.

You and me both buddy. I would love to bore a cam'd L28 up to 3.0 and stick it in in a clean 240z 2+2

Thank's B R50's are not out of the question but I am partial to frames.(As well as being raised in my WD sways my preferance too) I also have it stuck in my head that a lowered WD (once 3.3 equipped) will do even better than that. Glad to hear the mallcrawler is doing well I may look into those.

I did not know that, I thought it had a little wireless device installed on each shock. Ok the old analog guage type, cost less than the wireless MyRide system. I want the old analong type. FOAM cells are awesome but I have not seen any that fit pathy's in the USA

good queston... why don't you go buy a dazun 240z and keep it alive? (tho it does have all of the above from B's post)