MY1PATH

for some reason my whipers suck they only work when its totally wet out so don't even bother using them for a sprinkler splash or a bug... I tried all kinds of blades. I even went shorter lengths too see if the increased preassure per inch of blade would help. No luck, I think my old glass prolly just has allot of grainy pits in it or maybe some paint overspray that keep the blades from wiping all the water away. I need a new winshield anyway maybe after that I'll get some Icons again, I like the way they look and work.

There is no Oil preassure holding the lifters at full height when you turn it over by hand. The valves still move but they give you more room than they would if the engine is running. there is room to be off by a tooth or 2. Cam gears(aftermarket) can ajust up to 10 degrees for this engine and I'm thinking each tooth on the cam is just shy of 10degrees.

Its been my experience that valves are usually dark in color unless they have some hight heat coating on them (TBC/ceramic race engine stuff). Ideally(not coated) they should be smooth and have a dark gloss or semi gloss shine. My guess is you may be running lean, too hot or both. How do your spark plugs look? White? Ashy? Maybe cloged injectors not spraying as much they should. Its a start, Maybe somone that knows more will chime in...

the thorley 2.25 bolts to the stock 1.875" From there you can leave it stock and still benifit (irecomend at least swaping the cat) or you can re-pipe to 2" or 2.25" A smooth reducer to 2" will not harm your velocity. Just make sure whoever puts the reducer in does a clean job.

I paid a guy for is driveway, tools and to stitch the 2 keyways while I spent 2 days doing cams lifter and t-belt. The only thing I didn't do was the weld itself. the whole deal cost me $300.(not allowed to work on my rented property) If you called one of those portable welder guys he'd have you stitched and you could clean it up for a fraction of the cost you were quoted.

your interior gonna be loud

Rumor has it mr jim pulled a semi... with is wd21 5spd vg30.3

I personally recomend you used schneider racing fromula2 for break in and formula 3 for every oil change. Lots of zddp! but don't use F3 with new rings It will keep them from seating. Madhornet whats your automotive history? And besides Owning a VG how much have you learned about it? You seemed too quick to discourage his engine especially since the solution is simple. Maybe lay off on the Rash statements untill you've dug into your's a bit. I know you have 500,000km (~250,000mi) and think its great but get ready cause by about that time most well cared for VG's start makin noise. (I said noise, and that is far from failure). I hope you were just trying to be informative and helpful but its bad when ppl get mis-informed.

You'll want to check you timing gear keyway as well it that one goes so will your engine. I fixed both keyways up with a bigger better fitting key because stock one is too short an if it doesn't stay seated it tears up the hole. here's what I did

yes, easy, a little time consuming (getting the manifold off and all) but quite easy. some ppl curse hydraluic lifters because of this symptom but really, if properly lubed(ZDDP) you might change them once in the life of the engine. But Vs solid lifter engines that may need the lash ajsted every 90k or so(mileage may vary)... I prefer the Hydro.

you have to be registerd and I belive they review the infromation and its source i.e. a fresh dyno chart maybe... before aproving the edit.

the bolts have to be loose on the front anchors whenever you are moving anything laterally on the splines. 1 Back off the ajusters all the way and loosten up the front anchor bolts untill they holding on by only 3 threads. 2 grab the bar and shake it while you use a very small hammer(if needed) to postion everything eles 3 once everything is in postion laterally and the crosmember is secure (did not need to remove it) bolt down the fwd anchor and begin setting the ride height.

well being an seasoned mechainic you should be able to tackle lifters in your driveway no problem. These engines are good for a half a million miles. Lifter wear happens inside the lifter, when it happens it looses its capacity to fill with oil and ajust it self. The nature of this wear means your valves and rockers are normally fine. 1 remove intake 2 remove valve covers 3 remove rocker arm shafts (loosen bolts evenly) 4a remove lifter galley (watch out for hollow alignment pins) 4b remove lifters from galley (if they didn't fall out) 5 CLEAN lifter galley. spray solvent thru it, ensure there are no clogs of blockages (failure to do so may result in another lifter tick) 6a apply assembly lube to all shiny surfaces of lifter and lifter galley locations where lifters slide in. 6b insert new lifters and wire the tops so they stay in 7 install lifter galley with alignment pins in place and remove wire. 8 use assembly lube on rocker pads and install rockers/ rocker arm shafts 9 re-assemble 1&2 10 Change your oil, us High quality oil. I recomend royal purple becuase it contains ZDDP. also use a zddp additve. break in properly to prevent pre-mature wear; 1 start engine and raise RPM to 2000 if there is a prolbem stop engine fix it and start again DO NOT LET ENGINE IDLE untill 20min RUN IN is complete 2 RUN 2000 rpm for 5 min 3 run 3000 rpm for 10 min 4 fluctuate 2000~3000 for 5 min 5 lifters are now run in let engine Idle and turn it off. at this point I reccomend changing your oil. I also recomend you have ZDDP in your oil @ all times because it protects the lifters. Most oils nolonger contain this substance. Don't rev above 4000rpm for the first 250 miles the link below is for cams but there are lots of pictures to help you visualize the process. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422

yep all models of the wd21 got the same steering and front suspension setup. steering stops may vary. and some mechanics think they know whats good for you; Firestone used to dial out my stops every time I got alignment It drove me nuts but they've done much worse to me....

blind leading the blind here. new lifters can be found for under $200 once installed Hydralic lash will be corrected.

yeh dude I was bent b4 I posted. sometimes it spills on the keyboard. I got may axle sawp idea from nissan nut and it works he went a step farther to cut & welded the baffle so the caliper is up top. I guess he was backing onto rocks and smacking it

x2 on the 3.3

Flow rates are the same. snout length and I belive one of the bottom bolt locations vary. I belive the bits on the sides are for satbility. On a 4x4 with a fan on the end of the snout rought terrain(or jumps) may have been considered enough to break the gasket seal.(coolant and t-belt bad, losing water bad too) so by adding an extra leg to each side maybe it protects us from that situation.

well its a done deal. and I went and did the noob thing. Long post, No pictures (what-bucket hosting?) and a mundane question that should have been searched. enjoi http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28011

I think it will go as smooth as any body swap can. everything should be the same.

don't some line locks include a one-way bypass so you can increase braking foce after the lock has been activated?

if its poring I don't think its as hard on the drive train but it will still shorten tire life. I use sometimes use 4x4 for altered breaking characteristics, In the winter sometimes the fronts used to lock up easy but when I go 4x4 the fronts cannot lock as long as the rear is still turning. But then again when its that slick using 4x4 is a good idea anyway.

I know exactly what a line lock is!!! and is there not a hydraluic brake LINE that runs down the frame!?!?!?! hence why it would be easier and less cluttersome because you are tapping into the fluid line before it goes to the axle thus eliminating 2 cables and adding nothing to the rear axle also a good line lock can be run off a battery for over a month before the battery dies and the rig goes rolling down hill.

steering pump takes up to 7hp @ full load. this is sitting on hot blacktop with no foward momentum. It uses about 5hp whenever its used @ slow speeds It always uses a mininmum of 2~3 when your not putting much load on it. 1)So, the cost of the pump, is it worth 2~3 poinies? 2)then we go back to your other question; how many more ponies will you alty draw when it has the pump switched on? 1? 1/2? deminising your gain even more... I considered electric steeing pump myself and gave up the idea after 1&2 above Hydro steer, you would have to mount the rack to the frame in line with where you CL would be if you want to match the same steeing geometry you have now. Differant mounting locations may work but perfomance of steeing geomety may vary by location.