MY1PATH

Idle Air Control Valve that makes allot of sense. Enjoi

It fits pretty good, there's more here; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26593&view=findpost&p=490795

well, I never did a writeup on it but I did chime in with some pictures here http://npora.ipbhost...ndpost&p=490795 gets louder on the inside and outside with the driver door open. Theoretically longer (smooth) intake tubing offers 1/2 MPG gain but I havn't seen anything conclusive yet. Oh and its a great help on those steep aproach angles to moderate water as the nose can fully sumerge before it levels out. The dizy has breather in the cap and a drains in the bottom. Depending on RPM and Ign current plugging these may or may not cause the air inside to become superheated thus causing arcing of points and misfire. This warning is clearly persribed in MSD manuals but can apply to some stock systems.

look on your passenger enginewall. on the dataplate toward the bottom you will see HG46 or HG43 (4.6 gears or 4.3 gears) If it says HG46 get the 17t and you will likely be close enough for comfort with the spedo. If it says HG43 you can get some 4.6 gears from another rig and do the above. You will aslo notice it acelerates better. OR you can get some 4.9's from a fronty or X(lots of torque) and you can try the 18t and the 17t and see which gets you closer.

I wanna say it was like 29mm I think I used a 1 1/8" socket on it

I fail to see why you would need vented only in the rear. Even when towing (and 1500 aint much) a majority of braking forces move to the front. I like the EBC greenstuff pads but I have only used OEM rotors. The Blue bads that have nissan stamped on the back of them work pretty well too, I have those in the rear. You should check out frozen rotors; powerslot rotors or their own signerature slotted rotor if you want really good rotors that last a long time.

I would place bets on on warped or otherwise poor friction surface on the flywheel when a clutch went in. I've heard many short life stories about ppl not checking flywheels when puttting a new clutch.

NIce trimwork on the lego covers. it looks really good

Here I got u a PN for your 17t gear 32702-33G17 17, 18, 19 & 20 were the options for the mechanical speedo gears, sorry wilson your thread is for electronic speedo gears.

that would be backwards, the fewer the teeth the more times it spins per one driveshaft rev and thus the faster the signal. Big tires= less teeth small tires=more teeth

understandable, but my 20 year old fuel pump still charges full line preassure in under 3 seconds after truning the key.(using a fuel psi guage) That is a healty pump.

It can and will drive, it just may be noisy. The damage to the lifters is already done you can try to quiet them but their life has already been shortened. I think they most likely bled out during shipping. Filling/soaking is also done when engine is running so removing themto do so will not help. In your shoes I would drive it as is and save up for new lifters. Did you check your rockers? if the pad on either end is worn beyond limits the lifter will never get tall enough to stop the chatter. Cam lube is not needed inside the lifter just the sides, top and bottom. When I got my lifters they were shipped the same way. I oppened each one and put severlal drops in each one when I was modifying them. the video for opening(modifying not necessary for your engine) and filling them is here. you can also put them in a pan with oil and depress the pluger several times with a blunt opject. (like a handle of a screw driver) you want them to be firm not spongy when installed.

I would check on many other things for starting before thinking its the fuel pump. For example did you know a standard sparkplug can grow over .005" in gap during 30k period? Spark timing fuel filter air filter air sensor (clean it) the list goes on, there are allot of cheap basics you chan check on first.

those are the easliest ones to get to just pull one out and measure.

Ok, so new lifers; 1 did you keep the upright at all times? The come with a small amount of oil in them but they can bleed out. 2 Did you use a high quality assembly lube? without it, the first few engine revoulutions (the initial chatter) will score the inside of the lifter becase there is nothing to absorb the shock so it goes to the inside of the lifter. 3 ZDDP!!! and this should be in red letters at the top of of your build list. the first start with new lifters must use High quality zddp oil (like royal purple or brad penn racing) and a High ZDDP (like schneider Formula 2) break in additive. The insides of lifters move just like pistons but they don't have rings to seal them so its about precision fit and proper procedures to ensure they don't score and leak during their first use. They need to have as much wear porotection (ZDDP) as possible so they polish eachother instead of the opposite. 4 run in procedure. Oil psi is 7-10 at idle, this will not protect any new components nor will it keep new unpolished lifters full of oil. break in properly to prevent pre-mature wear; 1 start engine and raise RPM to 2000 if there is a prolbem stop engine fix it and start again DO NOT LET ENGINE IDLE untill 20min RUN IN is complete 2 RUN 2000 rpm for 5 min 3 run 3000 rpm for 10 min 4 fluctuate 2000~3000 for 5 min 5 lifters are now run in let engine Idle and turn it off. at this point I reccomend changing your oil. I also recomend you have zddp in your oil @ all times because it protects the lifters. Most oils nolonger contain this substance. Don't rev above 4000rpm for the first 250 miles the link below is for cams but there are lots of pictures to help you visualize the process. http://npora.ipbhost...showtopic=15422

you'll want an impact gun to remove that flange nut. I used a 5ft breaker pinned to the ground and used the engine to remove the one on the t-case and the torqe it took to free the nut lifted the driver side of the vehicle.

I belive the Bosch Is OEM. They have a pretty relyable productline and a majority of OE elctrical components on the pathy are BOSCH.

there are 3 locations for a dipstick at the base of the block.(2 on 1 side and 1 on the other) Its as simple as removing a plug and moving your tube to another hole then plug the hole. Actually that sounds hard considering both the block and pan are in place... My guess is wrong tube, wrong location; so the hole it is using and the angle of the tube being used is pointing the stick at the crank(inward) whereas a differant tube might point the stick straight down. enjoi the 3.3

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm Led load equalizers can be found in the link above. THey are only needed for flashers and turn signals

RMS TOO!!!

next I would check you pedal ajustment. If the screw is dialed out too far the plunger cannot return all the way and so it has trouble building up preasssure to actuate the slave. no leaks correct? If the above is not the case then I would get a new MC since the seals are prolly worn out. Just keep the above in mind when installing the new one.

do you mean wont dis-engage when you press the pedal? I would start with a bleed and see where you get from there. bleed to the fitting on the firewal first and then bleed to the fitting on the slave. you should need less than a qt for it all to come clean.

Actually its a straight swap for the 87-95 pathfinders so I did not do all that, I did less lol. But If I had and R50 I would likey still do it all. I never driven an r50 so I would not know but I'm guessing it would be worth it.

Have you looked into going 4whee disc? I think nissannut.com has a page on it for the r50. I have driven the stretch on i20 from hwy1 to hwy101 manytimes before and after my 4wheel disc swap on my WD21 and I gotta say, much better after. More fun, more control, better pedal feel and response, just better!!!

I think your spedo is off cause u did 0-60 in under 15 seconds... I'm drunk, ur fine. I was thinkin 1/4 mile in under 15 lol