MY1PATH

I've sheared em off a few times. I run a very small drill thru em and they usually spin out the outher side. Its just easier to stay center on a larger bolt and so one day I will go larger but larger usually shear in a way that they won't spin when you drill...

do you have a sunroof? there is a drain for that that runs down the A-pilar if the hose is rotted it can simulate the same thing.

How about "THE BLAZED FINDER" were you blazed when you found this idea? more pics plz

drill them out and put some large inserts in there. they'll break and crossthread less that way and will be easier use and ez out on(grade 5) if you shear one off.

thanks for the very good description. He means there is a light film of slipery baked rubber and dirt on the pully. rough up the noisy pully with some 180-220 grit sandpaper so it grips better

keep in mind the 3.3 and all asociated equipement was modeled after fitting a similar size shape engine bay so you will have easier time than kingman here with his 300zx designed intake, and such... You can also run a 3.3 off your tbi if you wish...

If your not leaking, have good compression and quite lifters I'd wait at least another 50k. Make sure you run something with ZDDP in that engine, it will help it stay quiet.

I was thinking of making screw plates that would be tacked to the inside and tie in with a light subframe...

good, question, hasn't been asked in a while... just inside the rear there are little acess doors in the interior wall. from there you can un-plug and un-screw the bulb holders. If you need to change or remove the whole unit it is held in by 3 tall nuts (10mm iirc) a socket and a wobble extension get in there really well.

Yes, Oil is only 7~10 psi at idle, for the break in the lifters need high oil preassure and proper component speeds to facilitate the proper friction levels for break in and hardning. Picture fan with the cover off truing full speed. If you poke the wind side you finger may bounce off it and you say owch but turning on low your finger would go between the blades and cut you. Thats how it works, too low a speed and they will grind eachother instead of polish eachother. These pumps do not require priming but you will hear the lifters for the first minute or so unitll lifters themselves preasureize, this is their most crucial moment Use the break in additve for this time and again for the rest of the break in.

there is as much contraversey one way as there is the other, I personally am beliver in the above but many will argue the opposite. So if you are a beliver in the above, by all means step on the gas as hard as you like as long as you watch the RPMs... The rpm thing and staying below 4k rpm is to facilitate proper blending of the cam and lifter surfaces without skipping or chattering beteen parts(can be very bad but usually doesn't happen) This is mostly for new cams but its good to do so on new lifters too. as the 2 surfaces find a common track in their wear pattern Higher rpms can be had without skip and chatter. Its not the end of the world if you loose track and hit 4500 rpm, your auto may like to shift there but consider being ligther on the pedal if its shifting higher than that. 250 miles is less than a weeks driving for most ppl so you should be able to get your lifter/cam break in good.

I lost my honda(car) in less than a week because of an oil slick on an on ramp on a rainy day. Who puts racing slicks on a honda? Esp when it rains for 10 months a year up here... I wish I had taken a bigger loan to get some all weather tires on it the day I bought it.

fuel is left, see the slider under the screw cussoins the hose so there are no pinch spots.

1 the sleve is meant to fail before the frame, just maybe not that fast 2 a more relaxed angle will also help the sleve 3 or you can wait for me to guinea pig the mod I reccomended...(prolly won't happen for a while life is gettin really bussy)

If I ever get my welder I will make a bunch of these things, cheap ones for refresher practice before get into bigger things; a pipe and 2 rods sticking out and witha nut welded to the back for a wrench to grabb

start with the switch thats on the bottm side of the pedal swing by the firewall (stick your head under the dash, you'll see it). unplug it and put a meeter on the prongs and see if continuity changeds when you poke it with your finger. then sart tracing the wire you unplugged untill you find a break/short.... thats a start.

Break in procedure. (I'm gonna litter this site with my ZDDP and break in procedures lol) Start engine and raise rpm to 2k rpms. If there is problem shut off and correct it. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE. Aproximite timing at 2k rpm is ~32* but turing the dizzy by sound till it runs smoothly is acceptable for the break in process. 2k rpm 5 min 3k rpm 10 min fluctuate 2~3k for 5 min let idle double check timing and shut off. at this point I reccomend changing your oil. I also recomend you have zddp in your oil @ all times because it protects the lifters. Most oils nolonger contain this substance. Don't rev above 4000rpm for the first 250 miles

If your lifted you may try bolting the rod to the top of the arm instead of the bottom. I'm gonna try this soon and I think I should reduce the angle & strain on the bushing. It will also (in theroy) alter the load path in a way that reduces brake dive. Don't forget an alignment after moving it.

Reccomend schneider because they void your waranty if you don't use it which means the want to sell it, or the belive in their product....

5) Calmini sells new busings. Install with some energy suspension formula 5 to get a litte more life out of them or add grease fittings to keep them well lubed. 4) wire your headlights up to a direct relay from the battery using 10 or 12 ga wire. this will eliminate the voltage drop you suffer from running 16 ga wire all the way to the steering colmn and back. 4.1) then get on e-bay and check out the clear plastic lights(I love mine) or convert to the pickup style headlight buckets and run the HELLA housing that allows you to use H4 bulbs instead of sealed beams. either option provides a brighter and more even spread spread of light but the pickup lights will require the pickup grille and markers (if you are running a grille and markers) 2) exellent choice, and works even better if you use an idler arm brace or replace your idler with a dummy steering box. I like this one so much (on and off road) that I will be doing it again to my 94 which is gonna be a steet vehicle. (I'll be doing #4 to my 94 as well.)

Like swampers would be any better on ice? I'm sure siped Vatiiva would good on ice vs siped swampers would likely still be bad. But really, stud kits(or 1/4" screws) or chains is what you want if you get allot of ice.

those tires are loud if your not offroad. They are best suited for mud, snow and other soft terrain but If you want a mud tire that is a little more polite on the street the Nokian Vatiiva MT has been the best tire I ever owned. Mine have served me well on everything but ICE.

pezzy didn't win one when your r50 rear end was shaking in the air on a climb?

I wanna see a 2dr R50, those would rock lol

AH HA! your not coppying me. as far as the injectors, some engines had no-sequecial fire which means they all go at the same time. If this is the caes The ony reason to have them pinned numerically correct is so you get the right failure code for the right injector and don't have to test each one...