MY1PATH

that is a good idea BUT, L&P are nolonger in buisness so I doubt it will be much of an issue. You want a grassroots 4x4 centerlink anyway. He stands behind his work and it works great with idler braces and dual steering box mods.

I have a feeling both JWT cams will give you trouble with your idle scores for emissions. (especially the S2)

Hard to find these days but a 13mm square drive fits in there real snug compared to a 1/2" driver for a socket.

I will add that I have moved mine closer to the firewall because I put my igniton coli where the filter used to be.

the eurospec cams (available thru our nissan reps here), and the schneider 256H grind should both pass emissions and possibly improve your high rpm score. I do not have certified test results but there is science involved.... They will also both do well with stock exhaust, but even better with headers and such.

my tbi would bog and or sputter @ 45~5000rpm. thats my indicator to change the spark plugs.

It looks like a lifted convertable. Did you cut the door panels out of wood or sheetmetal? The DOOR panels look nice.

2x these seem to come in @ almost the cost of materials if you did it yourself; tubing, plates, welding wire... asside from the front fenders(lower than the pinch seam) I have not had any rubbing or clearance issue with body flex/ roll and have maybe 3/8" gap. I just cut 1/2" off the fender tab and all is well. +1 on powder coating them before install. yeah unless you bolt em you won't be able to again but for the first coat its a good idea. I played in some cobble stone pits the other day (very destructive driving) and it has not chipped yet. Cardinal makes a powder coating called BK08 its black 20% gloss and has impact resistance of over 120 Lbs per inch. Most powder colors range from 60~100 impact resistance. Many powder coaters I have found cary or can easily get this Cardinal BK08

they're called push rivets, you'll see little rectangles with a round pin in the center. [O] Push the pin down about 1/4 inch and the barbed bottom half will slide in to grooves that were in the part you pushed down. Then slide a blade or small screw driver under the head to get the rivet out.(or it may just fall apart and jump away you push the pin) once all the rivets are out (or likely broken) lift the grille upward and foward. IME most the 15~20 yr old plastic push rivets break on removal. but they are handy when they work; insert the pin to lock, push it partway thru to release remove and re-install the pin again to lock. If its faded and gray scuff the plasic with a scotch brite, get in the grooves and then whipe with ~50% alchol (drugstore 70% 2:1 water or industrial 90%+ 1:1 water)and spray with your favorite rattle can. Push rivets can be found @ most parts stores but they are usually round head veriety. buy the largest ones that will fit thru those square holes and square off the head with a razor blade or exacto knife.

these are heated o2 sensors BTW. If you test one off the vehicle you can see the heating element glow thru the fins.

things to look into; Tire psi? Shocks, worn out too soft, or gets too stiff when it heats up & doesn't soak up bumps Misbalanced trailer (toungue weight too light or lifting up with speed) Too high toungue weight (evideced by rear end of vehicle saging) Rear link bushings worn out?

darwinsim may insure you & I die b4 everyone anyway lol

thats, backwards the engine is run by the o2 sensor once you exeed 2800rpm.

Make sure there is a relay involved. The draw from the mirros is (or any heating element) is usually enough to cook your switch on the dash and the rear defrost relay is mounted in the back so unless you wanna run 20 ft of 10ga wire.

I think the overall diameter is differant on the r50 so wd21 spring options won't work. Your panhard bar mounts on the wrong side too LOL

I don't know if you realize but this forum (starting with its origins) is about a decade old. And allot of these DIY things HAVE BEEN COVERED MANY TIMES. sometimes in more descriptive manner with pictures and whole 9 yards. Yeah the search funtion sucks so a future DIY-er may have troble finding but littering the forum with less helpful postings that still include all the search terms just makes the search harder. Ya I came of sarcastic and rude on my earlier reply. Really I am all for people wanting to learn to DIY and others wanting to help I'm sure others have seen; when someone says "thankyou" I say "no problem, help the next person when you can" I also adressed this matter with you (using Far less words) in one of your other threads when I suggessed you start and introductory thread. "hi my name is shooter and here is a pic of my ride"..... I was very serious, tell us about yourself and then search for something before you try to randomly explain it. Honestly I came to this thread because most ppl ask questions and get answers I did not expect what you wrote(the opposite) and thus I left my original (and appearanly offensive) reply.

the "dealer spring compressor" as in the one that uses the rocker bolts to hold it in place, is not available @ dealers, infact most dealers don't have em cause they'd rather pull the heads. I managed to track one down for some $$$ and decieded that making one out of a cut C-clamp and some 1/4" plate would be the best way to go when I get to it....

B don't u mean MPG? my best ever mpg was 23. On my 89 with the TBI. This was not a hill, just a good day I had a lot of "good days" when I had to commute 45 miles to work and both ends were right on the freeway.

REALLY? WOW

what tranny & t-case would I use tho?

I find allot of chevy ppl (350 fans) think we have DOHC. we just have OHC or SOHC. But they automatically think that if the cam is not in the center of the block it must be DOHC lol

how 'bout a stroked 3.3 (3.6), Mild cam and a mega squirt ecu to preciecly dial in all the elements (including atomspheric calibration)..... headders exhaust for a pipe dream of 200hp & 220Ft Lbs TO THE WHEELS and still VG powered. (aprox 230hp/260tq crank)

ohm yes, indeed

everything swaps over... you will need speedo sensors and vaccum controls and such for the a/c.... somone on here did it, can't remember who but I think it became a year long project for them.... (off and on of course)

you would have to bypass it. But yes, just be careful not to start it in gear and hit something.