MY1PATH

I will eventually be buying the compressor based controller for mine. Only $150 and no remote to loose.

ok so some of you may have heard me talk trash about my doge stratus (wich will be paid off by the end of the month) and I have been constanly looking around for a replacement. A wagon or small SUV, something Family sized(baby due in 1 week). I thought I Had it set on the Murano(Trish won't agree on anything) when suddenly Trish said NO MURANO, NO NEW CARS!(as in 2000 or later) Then she agreed something MUCH closer to my Budget range; Get another pathfineder, a 4 door... "you already know how to work on it and keep it running and you won't have to fight with stupid crammed spaces and new electronic technology" So yay, I'm in the market for an Auto 4dr WD21 Thinking I want a square dash since I can change speedo ratio's easily for small tires (plan on 235/75's maybe 215's 235/60's)(and I know how to fix the square cluster really well!!!) But I guess It depends on whatever I find.... You can change spedo ratios on the round dash right? anybody wanna buy an 99 Dodge Stratus? Long term plan; Lowered 1" (not slammed) small tires and a 3.3 w/ headders. Thinkin' I can get mid to high 20's on the freeway like that.

x2 and @ that point you'll need a better suspension anyway

Just make a set from MSD. Thats what I need to do, I just burned thru a bosh Wire where it meets the coil.

I was talking about the z31 guys (sohc) who just do ecu prom @ their buddys electronics lab so they can rev Higer, no other mods. LOL I've seen my needle peg past 8 when I was kicked into 2nd insead of 4th why trying to pass someone. My eyes were large, the sound was awesome, I got passed and once properly in 4th I was glad to see no damage had been done. My new modified lifters were in place if you want to think thats what saved me. I reall have no Idea.

go play in come cobble stone pits and your entire under carriage will see dents. lol asside from the single wall "air cooling" bit twin tubes can be constucted in the same way. There's nothing anywere that says twin tube shocks need to be single piston they can be doulbe or even tripple just like any other shock out there. but I guess you got your mind set so go buy whatever you were going to b4 you asked us.

For the record I love my rancho 9x's I set em soft for the city since I have to drive over a washboard @ the gate everyday and about 7 in the rear for long trips. when I get to I-20 in cali I set them to 9 in the rear and they feel great on the turns. and what makes you say mono tube shocks are better? If you dent a mono tube it will not have superior longevity. If you dent a racho you haven't done anything but add character to the outer shell (unless you whack it really good).

I think not, Plenty of 300zx guys have bumped the limter to 7 & 7500RPM on the stock motor with no ill effects to the lifters or valves. Higher springs are recomended above 7000RPM (to prevent valve float) and solid lifters are recomended (to prevent lifter collapse) but the rest of the internals can handle up to 9000rpm

If you so choose you can include that into its programing. You could prolly even get it to run e85 making emissions testing a walk in the park.

build yourslef a megasquirt to go the the SC and forget about nisstune. megasquirt kits avg about $400 and they take a barometirc preassure reading right before each startup so they are self calibrating to altitute, temperature and weather. Not to mention total contol of everything.....

the maixima water piping is differant in back than the 300zx because the manifold opens up in the front intead of the back with a sharp 90*.

I'm guessing both part numbers are for pathfinders and you just got a TBI Set.

And some Companies do exactly that for the very reason kingman explained. There's allot of things nissan coulda done but they didn't, the same goes for any car and there often doesn't seem to be allot of rhyme or reason aound any of it.

um dude he has a TBI so its not on the upper coolant neck. the guage sender is on the top of the manifold imediately behind where the upper hose meets it. It may be easier to put a wrench on it if you take the air box off. let it soak in pb for days (literally) blast it a few times every day and let it soak (temp changes from diving will help the pb work) unplug it and find a good 6 point wrench (12 points and opens will round the 20 yr old brass) and carefully remove it. Mine was so bad I had to drill out the whole sensor and re-chase the threads....

because that makes plugs 2 4 & 6 harder to get to... i agree, the pathy manifold is better & he can always swap it when he has more dough

replace the steps with sliders!!!

I guess I'm x5 or 6; I had it up there too. but think about it, your average 31" tire on an aluminum rim can weigh 50~60lbs depending on its constuction. Imagine the scenarioros for tire change. if your covered in mud its raining hard and your along side the freeway its cold and slippery and your trying to get something off your roof... I did like it for good weather road trips, frees up my rear view so I can see behind me better... another way to free up some rear view is to unbolt the tire mount from the gate and put it on upside down. This may block your licence plate but my plate is on the side so I don't have that problem.

Hey, it has a pull pin for drivelinetrain disconnect lol

too much work, drilling, taping cleaning out all the chips so the tranny doesn't grenade... just get 2 elbows 3/4" pipe thread and make and s turn if you want a higer hole. I still fill from the shifter but having the s-turn hole helps when checking fluid levels.

I will eventually turn my cowl vents into mini scoops and the left one will be plumbed to my intake...

you can put ATF Dex III or Gear Oil api GL4 75w90 in the t-case. Just don't mix them. I would run whatever is in your tranny just incase the seals start to leak. (since the T-case IS THE SEAL on the MT)

yes, good luck finding one. The only nissan cam still available for the VG30/33 is the eurospec. the eurospec and the 256H are differant. the eurospec runs the same lift as stock with longer duration and more overlap for higer RPM performace. The low amount of lift results in near stock behavior in the low rpm range. Schneider 256H increases lift and duration and targets the 1500 and up range.

Without getting too much into the science, the basics of it are that they draw in more air which ads more fuel and thus produces more exhaust. Ad Idle It would be like testing a bigger engine.(something completley differant happens at higher rpms) now on top of that the S1 and more so the S2 have more overlap in their valve openings these can create other conditons that your stock emissions system may not be able to compensate for. not to mention the s2 creates a very rough sounding Idle and the smog people may be skeptical of that as well. If all your smog equip is up to par you might pass with the s1, I'm just saying I have a feeing it will give you some trouble. I don't think my new cam will pass me emissions either at least not untill I figure out how to get it to stop running rich Idle. (luckly I'm in a loophole).

clown lol

ok, there are 2 seals on each end; inner and outer. the outer seal is just a grease seal so its ok if it won't hold oil because all it needs to do is hold grease. thats the one that requires the removal of a lock-ring and re-press bearings etc... the inner seal is your oil seal, easily done at home! -With the axle supported and wheels off, remove the 4 axle bolts, un-bolt the caliper and hang it in the fender well.(the bolts on the baffle not he pivot bolts) -slide the axle shaft all the way out -Pick out the old seal without scratching the tube where the seal seats. If the seal is sitting flush you should be able to knock it in a little deeper to free it up before tugging it out. -put a thin coat of grease arround the outside of the new seal and in the seat area of the axle tube and evenly tap the seal in with a rubber hammer. -try to soak up the some oil in the bearings before putting the axle back in. Or displace it with non-clorinated brake cleaner. -Once the cleaner has evaporated use a grease needle to squirt grease into the bearings while rotating the shaft to circluate it. (any remaining oil will mix with the grease or work its way out and be fine) -carefully slide the shaft back into place; support the shaft as center as possible so that it does not distort the seal. Bolt everything up, top off your diff oil and have a nice day.