MY1PATH

well that over simplifies things. EGR helps mpgs @ cruising speeds by adding already burnt gasses to the air/fuel ratio. since these gases take up space less air and fuel are required to fill up the cyl. but since they do not burn (again) it does not effect combustion so less fuel is burned, less emissions are produced and slightly less power is generated (hence why it only operates when cruising). Essentially the same effect as having a smaller engine...

cali ecu's are about 5~10 hp less and feature tempurature feedback for the EGR line into the intake to varify that it is working. there may be other differances but thats the main.

yes but you can rech thru the window and start it that way...

60mm bolts are optimal, they give you 10mm more thread than the 55mm pilot tiped(5mm blank @ the tip) stock bolts but will not bottom out if you have no shims. If your rig has more than 3/8" of shimms in more than one location I reconmend lowering it so it can be aligned with less.

the ecu needs several hours unplugged to reset. do you have the stove pipe (intake heater) hooked up to the headder? The TBI are commonly rich when cold, they warm up rich and with 5 deg retard timing so the fuel burns late and heats the engine more. try bumping your timing to 15* then your cold idle will be ~10* and it may smooth out some.

I thought z31 heads were the same. Care to highlight the differances since I am sure you have been into many VG's...

is she cute? be sure to post pictures.

bump ... I doubt the frames changed, but it is possible the coating systems used on the frames may have been differant or applied thinnner...

theres this stuff called gunk. it sprays on like a cross between gel and foam. let it sit for 5 min, work it in with a brush on the heavily soiled areas if you feel the need give it a mild rince and then put it in the in the dish washer, bottom rack heated dry on with regular dishawasher soap.(not common but it makes sense) dish soap is an imulsifier which means its intended to break the bond between grease and other materials. afer the bond is broken it provides a body to lift it and cary it away. If you have a good hot heated dry it finishes off with a steam clean.

Cool, your getting the S1 right?

the fact is, not amount of gear ratios will help these tired engines over a certain speed. they may help down low and they may improve economy. If your asking about a governor to limit the top speed the w/d21 pathfinders and hardbodies Have none. Also a misconception some ppl have is that the numbers on the speedo indicate top speed.... I seen cars that can't get within 30mph of that speed(140) and I've seen trucks peg the needle and keep accelerating(90). MY TBI has been over 105 before I decided to let off the gas.

I noticed with the drums that every time I did a bleed (every 2 yrs or so) I would have to manually dial back the ajuster because they were locking up, or just grabbing hard before the fronts were doing hardly anything.

pathtfineders and all VG engines, change oil every 3k or less. It is not a myth. dirt and wear particles get suspended in the oil (long before your 5k or 7k oil breaks down) and these particles wear out your lifters. So really with these engines its not the life of the oil but how clean it stays. Newer vehicles and rollerized engines can go longer. I also recomend using @ least 1 qt of royal purple or brad penn racing oil with your castrol (or whatever brand) because it adds some much needed ZDDP to you oil. ZDDP is a wear reducing agent that has been removed from a vast majority of oils starting in 2004.

yes and yes. I also recomend cam gears to fine tune it. Schneider was 3degrees off on my custom grind and there is a 300zx thread saying small degreeing errors are common for schneider...

slotted and drilled rotors are not a dimished as you would think, given proper care and use their nature (staying cooler, keeping the pads clean) prevents them from needing to be turned as often. So given the optimal situation, slotted/drilled rotors would end their life when they are too thin because they did not distort enough to need surfacing. stainless lines make a much bigger differance on a 20 yr old rig who's old dry rubber lines stretch more than crisp new ones.

IF you have a bearing shop in your town like mcguire bearing, they can look one up by the number and brand printed on the seal or by measurement and pull one from stock. thats where I got my seal from, it was only a few bucks and done the same day.

if you stall on an obstacle and putting in the clutch will cause you to roll back(to a bad place) the interlock gives you another option.

I loaded mine with a spring. works the same hot or cold. Done deal.

that screw actually controls how much air is allowed to bypass the throttle body when the FICD solenoids are activated. (bumping Idle for Alty load and A/C load.) if the ruber plungers on the sonleniods are rotted out air may always be bypassing thus causing your idle problem untill you turned it shut. Find my TBI guide (pinned) for more info.

that depends heavily on what your plans are. Personally instead of a 3.0 rebuild I would start with a newer 3.3 block and heads. Might cost less than a rebuild if you get lucky. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=205223&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 is a good writeup on how one guy did his. Getting back to cams, the third cam I belive is the euro spec. cam. Nissan has an over abundance of them right now and 5523Pathfinder should be able to get you an even better deal on those. they offer a clean idle, good emissions and a bit more power up top without sacraficing any down low. The other 2 I beive are actually jim wolf cams. the larger one is not friendly with automatics and idle will have to be raised to ~1100 and you will still hear it lope @ that speed. the power comes in high and your lower rpm ranges will be weaker. the middle one comes in about 2k rpm and gives a good pull from there up. Idle to 2k may feel weaker (esp on a 3.0) and it will still have slight lope sound @ normal idle. If you want a good option that bridges the gap between the eurospec and the JWT you can have schneider racing cams do you their "256H" grind. The one thing I cannot stress enough is to use ZDDP in your oil. If you break in your engine without it your lifters will wear prematurely and get noisy. Brad Penn racing oil and royal purple still contain zddp and I recomend using additves from schneider racing to increase those levels and aid your break in.

Go for it Be patient with the welding and use something thin like 1/16~1/8 for the plate. The case is cast so it may provide a small challenge.

another thing, and I seen this done in a bike race, is to patch the turbless tire, run tape over the inside of the patch and mount it with a tube before the patch cures. the setup is run for a warmup lap and then the tube and tape is pulled (weight wheenies) leaving the patch firmly pressed, cured and molded into its active use position. Not sure how well it would work on a truck tire (doesn't mount and inflate in under 60 seconds) but I thought I'd put it out there.

Its not fear of wrecking my modded rig. Its more so, lack of oportunity. Allot of ppl find them selves in this same trap, my whole life is falling into work, family and foolhardy lawsuits. I should take more vactaions.

Really? I thought I was being uniqe by getting American Racing Baja Wheels(aluminum) and having the powdercoated semigloss black. they selling them in black now? Or do you really have the Cragar Soft 8 Steelies? For my street tires I want to take my Outlaw II's and do the same thing but punch the (fake) rivets out first and put them back in so its black with aluminum rivets.

then I still want em lol