MY1PATH

Most vehicles I have seen that came with a full size spare have room for up to 1 Plus Size. And Most vehicles I have seen that come with doughnuts have room for 1 full size tire.(exept sports cars)

the Flat caps like your engine has do not route the wires sequentially. If I remeber correctly some caps go 264 135 and others are 426 135 So read the numbers on the cap (not the order) when you route the wires to each cyl and yes the cyl are 5 6 3 4 1 2

there have been several reports on multiple boards of the 1" spacers twising stock UCA's I don't recall too many issues with the 1/2" all the aftermarkets I seen have been more stout than stock. But I still wouldn't run more than 1/2" I ran 1/4 and 3/8" for some time (custom) with no issues on of off road

there may not be emissions where you live but it is federal law to keep a cat(and some other components) on a vehicle if it was origianlly equiped with one. Do they go arround looking under everyones car? no but IMO Having a magnaflow cat just so I can say I have a cat is worth it to me. Other equipment, Cabon canister- To remove it you must pulg the vacum lines but leave the line going to the tank open. You can put a small motorcyle fuel filter on it to prevent debris but it needs to breathe. EGR Valve- Leave it, replace it if it has failed. It doesn't take much space and when you are cruising it Impoves MPG by adding Non-combustable exhaust into the cyl thus causing you to burn less air and fuel. its like temporaily having a smaller engine but it goes back to normal when you accelerate. Everything else- Take it off, plug it. Your exhuast temps may go up but you'll have a cleaner engine bay.

33's will do with some steering upgrades and 3" susp lift and 3" BL. Check out grasroots4x4 for the ceterlink upgrade and search here for how to run dual steering boxes(the 2nd one is a dummy) and your steering will be set. Any more than 2.5~3" suspension lift is going to speed up CV wear(from binding).

Also (and this is for Everyone with a VG) look into adding ZDDP in your oil. It won't reverse wear but it may keep the rest of the lifters from getting loud as soon. ZDDP is a Zinc based Anti wear agent that was removed from most oils in 2004 because it "can be harmful" to catalytic converters and other emissions components. (But its in your oil not your exhaust?!?! Yeh, stupid...) Anyway Older engines were dependant on this substance to reduce the wear in bearings and lifters and such. Royal purple, Still contains ZDDP (I mix 2 qts in with Castrol GTX every oil change) Schnieder fromula 3 is a good choice (I use 1/2 bottle every oil change, part of schneiders warnty agreement) use formula 2 if breaking in an engine because Formula 3 is so wear reducing that it prevents break in. there are other off the shelf items out there too like ZDDP max but I have not tried them.

Get the rod off... get 2 2lb+ hammers. (best if you have a 4Lb and a 2.5LB mini hammer) spay the tapered shaft of the TRE with PB blaster Place one hammer firmly on one side of the tapered hole (not the TRE itself) Rap the opposite side with the other hammer. Do this from sveral differant directions. You should feel the shock jump your stationary hammer, try to keep it firm. if you have 2 wieghts make the heavier one stationary. This will shock the part (free hopefully) and help the PB penitrate. If your lucky the taper will jump outa the hole but more than likely you will go back to your separator or picle fork and it will pop apart then.

OH YES! the tensioner moves with the belt... for the short term loosten it and unbolt the pulley from the front and see if you can work some thin lube into the bearing. (tri flow would be best, Wd40 worst) and then button it back up. If the bearing is shot you'll need to get a new one or just grab a whole nother pulley and bearing from a JY pathy. Edit; make sure all your pieces are there too; Nut> Stamped Dust cover> Thick Inner washer> Pulley with bearing and snap ring> Pulley sleve> tensoiner stud The sleve is stepped t-shape bushing that the inner washer pushes against to allow the pulley to spin free when the nut is tightened. If either are missing the pulley will bind on something and also not properly center.

It Could be worse, I seen it with allot of CARS arround here lol. somone gets a new set of rims but can't afford new tires so they got a 235 wide tire on rim that requres a 275. and its low profile so the tire looks like this on the wheel \_/ instead of |_|. I don't know how the installers can sleep after doing that and I think its an accident waiting to happen becuase it looks like the bead just wants to slide inward and let all the air out.

yes, but the FAN has 4 settings. So A/C on HIGH means the fan is blowing full power. The more air you pass thru the A/C core the more the compressor has to run to keep it cold.

Here you go;

Try recharging the system, fresh refrigerant also contains a lubricant for the inside of the compressor. Parasitic drag, adds up when you multiply it by your RPM. Also, when fully charged and A/C on anything but HIGH your compressor will more than likely run a little as 1/2 the time instead of all the time.

Push the belt firmly downard in the center between the tensioner and the compresser. Do so applying aobut 20LBs of force, this is called deflection. This deflection should be between 0.35~0.4 (just shy of 1/2") Thighten the belt untill you have this amout of deflection. Power steering deflection is the same. Alternator deflection is 0.25~0.3

My Cali Pathy Does not have that and never did. More than likely the PO Cut the Mid Pipe and welded one on thinking It would help pass emissions. I Saw a ford Van With 5 (yes FIVE) Cats on a single pipe exhuast... ppl do crazy stuff.

I thought anthing wider than 15X8 was supposed to be hard on the IFS, stock seering components and front wheel bearings...

I would feel better if YOU did it right. Bigdave I selling his never installed 3" http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26758&view=findpost&p=502781 I bet you could offer him just over $100 for it since he wants some dough in his pocket for the 4th.

x2 I think somone is trying to sell 3" on here as we speak...

Because the way I have it lined up, the inner rail (not the legs) run the whole length under the seam.

if your missng the clear plastic cover the wind will dance your tach needle. slide a piece of cardboard under your spedo needle and heat it soft with a blow drier. Keep close watch of everything arround it. let if cool for 10 min. If its still bent use thicker cardboard and try again.

than do 2" you'll be fine

well, seing that the e-clip is attached to your piece tells me the end of your lock broke off. A new lock from the should will have that pice attached so you can snap the rod back onto it then you can take it to a lock shop(not walmart keys) and have them key it to your existing lock. Lastly if your window bent that rod any (even the slightest) you lock will act buggy so if it don't work perfect try tweaking the rod a little.

Incase all are interested Here's the print I drew up for when I mount Mine. I cut the pipes and gussets @ 94* angle to give me a little more clearance @ the pinch seam on the body.

Hey U go to PAP in lakewood too? whe should meet up some time.

Mine are going on soon, if they ever need to come off I'll do the same. when they go back on I may or may not design a way for them to be multi mountable; low- step position high- slider position it would be 2 female tubes one atop the other that slide over the smaller tube I left on the frame.

I think I just missed one, today @ the JY there was a white AMMCO transmissions pathy (originally red where the paint was peeling). Anyway it had no 4x4 badges and looking @ the paint above the where the badges were, you could tell that something was there....