MY1PATH

I gotta say, I really like that grille with the lights in it. Are you gonna put 4x4 or somthing on the block?

With the oil pan you will need to swap the oil pickup tube as well. Remove the pilot bushing and MT flywheel as you won't need it for the auto, swap over the torque converter.... The 2wd has a partial water pump compared to the 4x4, the wider one can be put in with the 4x4 timing covers to seal up the sides of the cover better.

there's supposed to be a flat(ish) rubber one under that. its molded to the shape of the shifter base and has frills for the t-case shifter to slide thru. I was told there is one left in the country and they wanted 160 for it lol. so I cut my own out of 1/2" hard foam

I was thinkin that swift 90 might give u some trouble...

X2 on the awesomeness. and never seeing it b4

the 3.0 and 2.4 used the same throttle body. anyway I usually grab whole ones from the JY for about 20 bucks. all mine are in pieces right now otherwise I'd offer u one.

that reminds me, valve clearances are the same but if you mix vg33 and vg30 block and heads you will need to get a small rotary file like on a dremel and walk the holes over in the gasket for the water jacket as they are just slightly differant.

ajustble backs or ajustable headrests? all WD21 have ajustable seatbacks, Its the same lever you use to fold the seat foward.

the matte color will likely cost much less and will not reveal dents or scratches so easlilly when you get them. The mustang is beautiful color. but $$$$ and every dent golf ball or larger will show like a sore thumb.

I took mine out and wrapped it in electical tape, Its got a duller quiter & less high pitched sound to it now. when I'm working with the door oppen I disconnect the door swich to shut it up.

the alty runs the smallest pulley (asider from the a/c tensioner that has no load) so it has less contact with the belt for a given degree of wrap arrond than a larger pulley. this leads to it being more prone to squeaks.... My 2" pulley does it every start up.

I've seem it the other way arround. So I suppose its possible.

I had a post on ride height and somone said it should be stickied, lemmie see if I can find it... searches;1843 Found; 1845 Pasted; 1846 Front, stock H=1.75 Rear, Stock H=0 Final tinkering; 1850

sometimes they are brittle with age and elements. iirc there are some in chrome and also universal black on ebay for the $20-$45 range. and the new ones come with the annoying little white clips that like to break when removing old ones.

OH no!! its only supposed to be 5.3!!! LOL honestly, you'll be fine enjoi

LOL I already asked all those questions. Tho advertised, go ahead and give them a call... I think the only ones still available are the euro-specs.

oh, lol for some reason I thought the MAF was directly connected to the Throttle body and the lines were after that, I guess I was backwards. (the PCV would mess up the sensor anyway lol)

u plan on getting rid of all your vaccum lines? PCV?

because each one does a differant thing. the JWT S2 will give you more power than any other cam on the market but you will lose bottom end, have trouble with automatics and likely requre and idle of 1100 or higher. the NisMo 1 & 2 cams are less agressive and provide more polite chariceristics (esp #1) Not sure where the JWT S1 fits in prolly similar to the NisMo #1 and I do belive JWT was the mfjr of the NisMo cams for a while and then Schneider who have been all about poioneering since the 70's have all kinds of differant grinds for all purposes below and between the ones listed above..... I digress, If everyone made coppies how could anybody claim theirs was better?

I Got pages and pages on almost everything. but Jim Connor eludes me. I'd have to find an old magazine or something(or a member might now(chime in now)) because I'm guessing his productline died before this whole internet thing got huge.

I spent allota time thinking about this, a Magnetic cover would slide off and the AC idler bracket with the outboard side shaved back and re-enforced with an L angle from the top will give you all the room you need. You don't need to get arround the whole gear just the bolts that positon its angle.

There's always something else I can do. Just comes down to $$$ and time. Adding an ajustable air screw to the tbi maf passage might help. running a federal ecu since the CA fuel maps are richer. Ajustable cam gears might help me dial everthing in. Maybe getting the rom flashed to a more compatlible fuel map... beyond that I could try taking full contol and build a megasquirt but if I'm gonna do that I might as well build one for MPFI and do the swap(i been considering that one) The MPFI manifold is so nice and flowing anyway. Really I'm gonna wait for a while and try the Schneider 256H Grind when I provide myself the next oportunity. I have about 1/2" on one of my injector cap vents(feeds air to the MAF passage) blocked to lean it out some and as so I'm getting the same MPG as before and a pinch more HP that can be felt on the freeway.

well if you put a small cut down the upper timing cover you can remove each half easliy and quickly. prolly just leave it advanced it for offroading and daily driving and retard it if you are going on any roadtirps or long freeway drives for a while. Or a qick ajust timing cover could be designed with round windows magnetically attached for really quick access. They are part of my next build plan.

no it won't snap @ that inteval but going 2.5x beyond its change interval is unreal. some owner prolly changed it and didn't document it. also consider I was talking Miles not KMs and 175,000 MILES overdue sounds pretty scary to me.