MY1PATH

ok, I know one of us here works there so skip this post or just read the bold center text. Firestone(my local one @ least) is a bunch of idiots. they used crowbars and such to move my spindle to put shims in and evetually stripped out my frame holes and a few other issues. They have on occasion raped me and now are only allowed to 'Check' my aligment(lifetime alignments). If their machine says I'm off I ajust it myself and bring it back to see how close I got it or take it somewhere else if its really off. Now the caster and camber are BOTH ajusted by shims under the UCA spindle. camber is set by total number of shims and caster set by differance in the number front to back on the 2 bolts. So either they don't know what they are doing, or they just got lazy (doing shims can take allot of re-checking) lowerd it and wased 2? 4? or more hours of your time you waited for it.

well I know the ecu changes conrol over from maf to o2 @ 2800 rpms. (the o2 is supposed to be more accurate) is the pop when coming down thru the rpms or accelerating? Higly experimental but I placed a piece of electrical tape across the inside of one of the vents in my injector cap. these vents feed your maf, pulg them and your truck will shut off fuel and die.(try it) The tape initially leaned it enough to make my exhaust smell proper but also killed my power. then I made it block less and less of the passage untill (2 tanks per try) my power was back and my MPGs were @ a peak. this was a bandaid to deal with my custom cams but Kingman also tried this after me and I think he had decent results too.

Honestly, I think thats allot of stress for the IFS. I would save up and do a sas if anything over 33 is your goal. Dont' get me wrong, I'm very pro IFS but I do realize it has its limits so if you must know it can be done; using a trail master lift combined with aftermarket UCA's will grant 6~7 lift and then a 3" BL puts your pathy 10 inches above what it used to be. that provides you with the room you need for 35's. A few other things and you'll be in over $1,500 of parts have your 35's and you may have to worry about breaking stuff (too often) which will put you out more. I belive a sas can be done for under $2,000 and allot less will break if done right.

I have heard and seen more than a few bent tubluars. Online and in JY's I have NEVER seen a bent I beam on a pathfinder. I have landed directly(slammed more like) on my I beams and all it did is pick the wheel off the ground momentarily.

there is a screw that ajusts your cold idle speed. It points skyward. on your thottle cam. find my TBI thread for pictures and more info. cold idle should be 1200-1500 normal idle should be 750-900, 1000 if your need a little help with emissions. It should not slow down w/ A/C also check my thread for how the the Idle up ajuster for A/C and electrical draw. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23251&st=0&p=416253&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=416253

One day, I hope to make some plate LCA's that drop the knucle so the t-bar is cranked less.

enjoi

does that include wing mounts or do you still need someone to dig up a sample and would they count toward the order or is it 10 per design. Btw Team Diawa is a fishing company. http://www.google.com/images?q=Team%20Diawa&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

I wonder how hard it would be to design an aftermarket LCA... yes install would be more inoved but slightly less than that of the TM lift. maybe a UCA + LCA matched pair with a diff drop so lift could be acheived while maintaining stock susp angles for handling and response.........

it will work without the hoohaa. I just said I reccomend it.

I want Pics! a naked pathy frame need to go in my collective of pathy data. Plus seeing your progress and improvents to the structrue would be nice as well.

is it saging too much or is the ride just too soft? rancho rs9000's have ajustable valving so you can turn the bump respmonse up as stiff or as soft as you want.

M14x1.5 pitch 60mm long. sory I didn't clairfy that earlier. the 10.9 hardend bolts run me about 8.50 each @ that lenght. standard grade are polly about half that. Its not like you walked in and told them the wrong size leaving you @ fault! they had better take the order back, if they took the size from your sampe it is their obligation because they are 100% at fault. the better buisness buearo should back you on that.

there are 2 seals the inner will be appearant when you slide the axle out. the outer is just a grease seal and typically lasts 2x longer if not more. it sits on the other side of the bearings. I would leave your bearings and outer seal allone. they are lilkely fine and much more involved so save it till they need it. Bearing in place, pack some fresh grease in the bearing and roate it while doing so since oil from your leaky seal prolly broke down the old grease

HA HA! My friend did the exact thing after I told him to be gentle. May I remind everyone that the torqe for these little grade 3(equiv) bolts is. 5.1-6.5 ftlbs. If you are a hammer head may I reccomend getting a 3" socket wrech so that you are less likely to over torque them. fortunately these are easy since access is fairly open, jack your rig as needed for more room. the screws are fairly soft so some small "drillouts" (they run reverse and extract 1 when they bite or 2 when the bottom out) should do the trick. or you can use the older drill and ez out. Drill about 3/16" deep with the bit recomended for your small easy out. now start gently with a hammer tapping the ez out in and turning counter clockwise after it has begun to set. If you whail on these softies they may punch thru and dmg your theads.

Drums right? did you turn back the ajuster on the shoes?

x3 on the wood block, I have acutaully used that one to move arround a little.

your balls in your steering box may be worn or have debris in them from all the other line troubles. since over a dozen balls work in a constant loop only to be used 2-4 at a time the problem may be intermittent. Redhead steering gear is the only company that replaces these with every build. other remans just clean them and if they are not chipped or broke they go back in. I reccomend fixing your u-joint shaft and inspectiong your rag-joint to use seafoam transtune, follow the steering directions on the can inspect all of your other components b4 calling it the box. if the problem persists, look up redhead they will restore your box to a better state than you can buy these days. then do another flush once the new box is in.

Sry guys I was looking @ the functional pov for our vehicles, I just don't see it. yes it does look cool, and if you case the ITBs in a plenum cover so they still draw air thru a maf you could prolly still use the stock ecu. (&aSnorkel)

His Fwd Main is prolly leaking. PS you double posted, made me think my reply got deleted. pls pick one category. Garage is best for this one since it applies to all VG's

Could be your rear LSD.(I'm assuming you have one) Mine pops and the tires complain a little on hard lock reverse. Just hear tires on hard lock foward. Check your fluid level. Might even change it since most ppl don't know how old it is or if its even the correct fluid.... ... and the correct fluid is 75w90 API GL5. The lable MUST say for use with Limited Slip Differentials. If it doesen't they you need to put LSD additive in it. I personally reccomend Redline oil as its long liffe, specifially designed for high stress LSD and its rated as an energy coserving oil (may help your MPGs but don't cross your fingers)

If you ding up the plate in back just pry that off as well. gently tap it flat again, clean up the ding and open the hole up just barely with a dremel. Idnno why they made it so it snaps onto a groove in the crank when the pulley pushes it against the sholder protruding from the seal anyway. Inspect your keyways, the original woodruff key was 2-3mm too short which allowed it to walk into the pulley and out of the crank slot. If you are victum of this and they are worn here is your fix. clean them up and have someone with welder come over. just put a stich weld in the center of the worn area get a 18x5mm woodruff key (stock was too small) using a 1/2"x1/8" grindstone on a dremel clean up the keyway and lengthen it to fit the longer key. It should fit snug maybe even have to gently tap in w/ hammer. Try not grind deeper just yet. slide the gear or pulley over the shaft without the key to make sure the saft is cleaned up enough insert the key and check deepth. make the keyway just deep enough so that the pulley or gear has to be slapped in firmly with the butt of your palm. as for the pump, mine had a felt-like gasket so I smeared just enough RTV on both sides to give it a reddish shine. this also helps it not slide arround when your putting it up. I had abbout 1/32 of squeeze out all arround.

Better than a brace, cost me less than a calmini brace, rides on 3 sets of 1"tall needle bearings bathed in gear oil. It will not shear, it will not bind, it will not bend it, will not break. Improves handling characteristics on and off road. Allows leveleing of the CL end to match the height of the steering box side. Highly reccomended for use with a HooHaa(grassroots4x4) CL as a complete steering system for ALL types of driving http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23222&view=findpost&p=467298

the problem with individual TBs it that It kills your bottom end. Granted for top end It would be limitless for Air flow but to keep the power climbing stronger past 4500 rpm without forced air you would need to find a way move the timing maximum advance to a higer RPM. thats why the trubo Z's did so well, once they ran out of advance the bost PS was high enough that it needed to stop advancing and in some cases even retard some. Over all I think its a bad Idea unless you are buiding an N/A strip car with a robust and more flexible ignition system. And no the VQ and VG lowers will not swap. edit; not to mention I think this setup woul have to aquire its AFR bases on a wideband o2 only. so your looking @ making a new computer for wideband o2 only & timing to run this thing.

why are so many ppl crazy about lucas additives and lucas differential oils? the additives just seem like a bandaid and the results seem differant for each user and the oils, well theres just other stuff out there that has poven its worth many times over.