Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

MY1PATH

Members
  • Posts

    5,803
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Everything posted by MY1PATH

  1. yes it would and cfm requirement is usually based on cfm drawn at redline or at just above the intended shift point
  2. thats a good question the stock cherokee 4.0 draws 375 so proportionally I'll say 280 ballpark untill I find a solid article. (the spectre allows 450 and the apollo was not listed) *goes to dig thru w/d21 & NA 300zx archives* no luck but I did find this; http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html now vg30 capable of reving 7000rpm @ 2960 displacement and assumed 75%VE would require a 275CFM carb or up to 350 CFM with higer %VE So yeah I'm a say 300cfm is the very maximum you would expect a stock vg30 to draw and maybe 350 for the 3.3
  3. IMO It prolly learned the airflow differances in the modified box and you went and sealed it up so its re-learning. PS could your sig pic be a little smaller please?
  4. get your money back, or get the person to recover the spine rings. The splines you see are for the lock not for the cv. The piece you are looking for have the slines for the lock on the outside and splines for the cv on inside. then it will all go togehter.
  5. either that or your cam gears are 180* off (since you said it was running well) but I'd go with option #1 above tho assuming you connected to the passeger fwd plug (#1) iirc when the keyway on the balancer is pointed @ 10:30ish your marks should be facing up and it should be pointing somewhere on 0 side of the marks not the higher side. so remove the balncer bolt ro reveal the keyway and remove the pullies (6 small bolts) and position them accordingly.
  6. Going back to the K&N Aollo, I found a much more affordable alterantive that I am seriously considering using @ some point. http://store.spectre...9833/2231.0.1.1 cheaper, smaller 4x10 instead of 9x9?(we don't draw that much CFM) and uses one clamp to seal it instead of a bunch of bolts. The filter istself is washable and oiled like a K&N. (don't over oil your filters, thats why most ppl have issues with them) I found a guy that used one here, http://www.naxja.org...=1026480&page=2 looks like a pretty good deal. vs
  7. prolly doesn't hurt anything as long as you keep the holes above water.
  8. untill completley warmed up the tbi retards timing 5 deg and enrichens the fuel. Idle mixture is set byt the MAF & ecu. once the engine is warm check your timimng, 15* should get you some help, stock is 12~13 then run ecu diagnostics and see what codes you get(guide is in the how to) It wouldn't hurt pour a bottle of gummout regain in your tank. might clean up an injector issue or gunked valves.
  9. I thought I had a RMS leak, the drips would aways acumulate @ the weep hole below the clutch and arround the slave cyl seal. When I did my cams and parked on cardboard for a week I had 0 drips. I guess the real culprit was the rear cam covers running oil down the back of the block so it would collect in the same place...(hopefully my RMS was changed when dad did the tranny) now with my Rear covers fixed, new camseals and fwd main(both were really toast) I shouldn't have to top off every 1,500 miles.
  10. yes 3.3's are cheap to come by. for street use the 4x4 parts cam (JWT S1) will be nice(good for the 3.3) a little lope @ idle but otherwise well mannered. Power comes in over 2k Schneider does a regrind called the 256H Lower peak numbers but it comes in sooner. the cost is less and if you stay with a 3.0 it will be more well mannerd (bigger cams behave better with bigger dispalcement) whatever route you choose YOU MUST USE a ZDDP break in additive for your first start and break in(I used scnieder formula 2). Since 2004 ZDDP has been removed from many oils but it is the lifeblood to keeping our engines happy and quiet (esp for run in/ break in).
  11. I know the vg30ett and the vg30det had higher output pumps. I have not heard that bout the 3.3 tho. Its possible, it would also keep those lifters quiet for longer and so does using ZDDP
  12. wow really? .393lift 248* both sides
  13. you'll have to pulg your filter ports cause I think the other pump puts the filter rt next 2 the pump
  14. 9007's have the filiment in 90* from the 9004. not sure that will work out for you. My guess is it will make your brights shift to one side instead of upward. also tho they otherwise look idnentical I could not get my 9004 in my doge 9007 when I needed a quick change teporary.(both lights went out )
  15. make a line fron the 1/2" below 2nd bolt up from the bottom (where the fender meets the support) to the top of the stamped hole in the support. then another line from the iside edge of the that hole straight down. you can cut this corner out and also the fender @ this location to give plenty of apraoch clearance. just don't jack youself up if you unsuspectingly strike the body mount just behind the hole. (try to avoid hitting it)
  16. the pop up is a function of the lever not the tranny or t-case. there is a sping inside it and pin on the side of it follows a guide plate. If the spring is wore out or the the grease has leaked out and dirt got in it may not pop up into the 4L guide. If the guide is beat up that pin won't travel thru it smooth. and of course if the floor, boot or othe obsturction stops it just shy of that up it will go 4L but is in danger of poping out of gear untill it goes back far enough for the spring(or your pulling) to take it up that last channel in the guide plate. good I need some new riding boots
  17. I often cruise 60ish in 4th instead of 5th just becuase it negotiates traffic better that way, when things speed up enough to keep 5th above 3k rpm then I take 5th more willingly If I really have to I can drop 3rd and will ride that gear up to about 70. It does give a good hard pull compared to 4th and 5th.
  18. you can also use aftermaket XJ coils. I bought the 3" XJ pair form rough country for $120 and I am very happy. Same amount of lift but Softer ride than the GJC coils unloaded they sand allot taller(because they are softer)...
  19. rust? I can't see how bad it is. sry for some reason It only showed the first pic and your sig. musta been a glitch.
  20. keep this in mind, -the your engine in stock form is capable of reving to 7k if well maintianed(limter is set arround 6) so using half the rpm aint so bad -the O2 sensor takes greater contorl of your fuel ratio after 2800rpm and povides a much more acurate mixture anyway(if everthings working correct) -being so under powered crusing @ low rpms (where there is less torqe) can use just as much or more gass because the throttle is open wider -20 lbs rotating weight is like ~180 lbs dead weight so if your new tires are 10lbs more each thats like carrying 360lbs everywhere you go theoretically larger diameter, less revoulutions etc... but that larger diameter comse @ the cost of wieght and think about it as a longer lever for the pavment and wind drag to pull against the turning axle. now you can re-gear to overcome these differances but you just wind up in the same place in the end. 31's are nice but I'm gettin some 235/75r15's for my next road trip. I have no concerns about high rpm I ran it @ 4k rpm(I won't say how fast) for over 4 hrs on my last road trip (31's) and it avg'd ~18 MPG for that span.
  21. yes but he should have that from his old engine, It swaps right over. He already has what he needs and know he knows what he has to swap while both enignes are out.
  22. x2 on grassroots CL Its not just for off-road daily drivers benifit from it just as much? try rock auto for the rest, I reccoment MOOG for everthing exept the Idler arm(moog Idler is bad) Go spicer for the idler. everything steering? if it really is everything then checkout redhead steering gears to get your steering box rebuilt....
  23. yes but the 318 doesn't have a bulb poping up in the center for the injector body. I think the Nissan tbi wants air to be able to "fall" into it equally from all directions. since you've got barely a fingerwidth all the way arround the injector body. I'm thinking like this (o}-- Instead of what he has o= and this Is how I draw stock ./.........\\\. |....O.....}\\\. .\........./...\\\ lol
  24. the slit on the first type has to be extended a little. also using a Hardbody shifter helps too since the lower part of the top half is differant(the millde piece lol.
×
×
  • Create New...