MY1PATH

Did you use any kind of additive to break in the lifters? This is crucial, new oils nolonger contain whats called ZDDP which is a wear reducing agent not required in newer engines so it was removed for emission requirement. Without it, ESPECIALLY IN THE FIRST 500 MILES, lifter and cam wear is accelerated. once the damage is done it is done. down the road if you afford to try again, schnieder formula 2 combined with a qt or 2 or royal purple or brad penn racing oil(those 2 still contain zddp) and run the engine @ 2krpm for the first 15-20 min so the cams create the best wear pattern in the lifter and so the lifter has the most optimal oil supply and preassure to avoid wear. don't think I'm blowing smoke, I just installed re-ground cams and my new lifters are silent.

oops I'm not supposed to exeed 4,000 rpm druing the break in period. 105 mph is 4,500 rpm...

The cams are in, I gotta go EZ on it for the first 500 miles. Feels ok so far. THE SOUND! differant, deep. vroom, chug, chug, chug...

I left a longer note In your PM... but thinking into it more sinc you asked; side to side ok, there is not much holding the rocker centered. angular, as in you can move it from 90* or wigle it up and down on the shaft... that may not be so good.

there is a swich screwed into the tranny on the right side towards the top and just foward of the shifter. its tricky getting a wrench between it and the tunnel. but a BL makes it easier. If your saying "that's not so bad" your prolly looking @ the neutral postion switch, look higher and farther foward lol. sometimes the switch fails, sometimes the end of it gets worn down so it don't push hard enough and sometimes the contact inside the tranny is also worn down so it still don't work with a new switch (thats my case)

MTor AT? Manual NO, never AT I think so, I've seen a few clusers with places for the bulbs in back. but they were covered up on the front because they were in MT's I can't remeber looking @ any AT's

well first off .060 is freakin huge! even .050 is a little big for many vehicles. The spec is on here but its hard to find so here you go. MPFI gap .032" (anywhere in .030-.036 will work) TBI gap .044" (anywhere in .042- .047 will work)

weak spark and too larg of a gap can also cause fouling. My engine was running like @$$ when I came back from cali. 2 of the plugs had grown their gap to .060 and were not sparking because of that. the rest had grown to .050~.052 wich is still more than the stock .044 used on the tbi.

yes esp when the pathy has an anti siphon baffle in it. we found that out the hard way when my friend needed gas. We had to siphon from somones Titan instead.

which is why he needs to video tape it.

Octane is not power. Premum is not faster or stronger its actually slower. Octane is resistance to detonation. Higer compression ratios are what make more power. If that power cannot be harnessed becasue the fuel is burning to fast(may just need less timing) or because it is detonating (ecu retards timing and offsets fuel ratio) then yes Higher octane will be needed and it will feel like it has more power ONLY because the engine is running properly now.

The pitman shaft has 3 sets of needle bearings. Bottom near the seal, Middle just below the gear teeth on the pitman shaft and top one is found inside the top cap. To take the worm out of the box; remove the 4 topcap bolts remove pinion hight ajuster lock nut (the only nut left in the cener of the cap) turn pinion height ajuster clockwise untill cap is free of the ajuster. watchout for loose needle bearings that will fall out of the cap. using the nissan spectialty tool (or very large pipe wrench but I prefered the hammer and punch) remove the lock ring on the side of the box (heat and BP may be necessary) now do the same with the threaded side cap that is still there if it didn't already come off with the lock ring. wiggle the pitman shaft gear as you slide the worm gear and piston out the bearings and seal for the worm gear can now be removed and the hole welded shut screw side cap back on with some teflon tape and secure lock ring re-install top cap and fill the dummy box with API GL5 75w90 gear oil. the pinion height ajuster on the dummy box can now be used to match your arm height to the oppsite arm because it nolonger contains any gears that have to match. If the Needle bearings do fall out of the topcap: no big deal, just keep them clean and don't loose them. use some molly grease to hold them in place when its time to re-assemble

I have considered a 5-ish galon custom made fuel cell to put under the body opposite the muffler. The plan was to run the small tank as a primary for arround town (less evoporative space when not cosuming gas very quickly) and as a reserve when the stock one is used for road trips. I was gonna cut out some body work from a d21 since their filler is in front of the rear wheel.

Agreed, placing the text in a solid colored box would work out the best. *cleaned out bump and request posts and pinned* The uploads are safe in my photobucket. I do not have the originals or my PhotoShop CS2 anymore so we're stuck with the hard red for the time being. thanks RedPath88

But I higher idle wont harm anything. infact, the balancer/dampener smoothes out more at higer RPM which is good for the bearings.

stuff a rag in the ouput shaft or leave the fwd side of the shaft in to keep oil from spilling out of the t-case when the shaft is off.

or you could get a sealed bearing for it and press it in. McGuire bearing is near by I might try and souce one someday.

good idea to use the sealed on the rear. don't wanna knock a zerk open on something.

Get 2 cans of seafoam trans tune and follow the directions on the can for power steering.(pretty much what you described) Perorm one flush with the old pump and then again with the new pump installed. There is a small filter at the bottom of the resivor, using a clean needle nose you can remove its retaining clip and then carefully slide out the filter and clean it as well. The use of Dex III ATF is reccomended for these steering systems as it also contains detergents to keep the system clean and free of buid up between flushes.

The Fsm says there is an idle ajustment screw below the intake manifold collector. I don't have a good picture of that for you.

get some water on your finger tip and add a drop to the inside of each belt as its spinning. the one that squeaks sould get quiet for a breif period of time. Maybe just change the belts. the AC idler pulley has a tendacy to make noise. (first pulley @ begining of vid) remove it, pull the covers of its sides and drip some oil into the beaing as you spin it by hand.

IF ALL GOES WELL I SHOULD BE DOING MY CAMS THIS COMING WEEKEND.

very differant on the TBI. Its on the back of the throttle body and its hard to get preassure on those butter screws @ that angle. Check the connector first. If that don't help carefully try one screw if your gonna mess it up your better of taking the whole TB off so you can get some good centered preasure on your screw driver. Heres some pictures... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/ghj018/MY1PATH/other/TBI%20component%20breakdown/back.jpg and lots of info... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23251&view=findpost&p=416254

that relay contols your mixture heater. It is on untill your temp sensor reaches aprox 150F. Its that waffle grid thing under your butterfly. I removed mine.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25383&view=findpost&p=466623&hl=&fromsearch=1

vent your gas cap too. this wil reduce the ammount that still comes out once you have run it dead with the fuse out.