MY1PATH

He is locked up front, that does make a big differance on what gives and what doesn't. You should look into warn hubs and those breakable rings well if you break a dozen a year i'd say they would start paying for themseves real fast. In the meantime You should look into warn hubs and those breakable rings then you don't have to limp it home and try again later. you can just swap the ring on the trail and try again in 5 Min.

for the square dash I've tossed arround the Idea of moving mine to on top of the dash flush against the insrument bezel. I'd postition it with the light facing the seats and run a toggle switch next to it wired to the diagnostic switch. The harnes could then go straight down next to the defroster vent and to the firewall. I think it may be long enough to reach as is too... 3 scissor snips and seams later my dash mat would contour and cover it just as well as it coverd the original set up. AND I could run diagnostics from the drivers seat!

are you using warn hubs? warn makes an "upgraded" ring for their hubs that intentionally breaks before your CV does. They run about $10 bucks a piece and can be changed on the trail in about 5 min using a single socket wrench and maybe a snap ring pliers. 4x4 parts sells CV joints and they might be stronger but I do not know for sure.

turn the crank so #1 is tdc on the compression stroke. the dizy gear has a dimple in it between the 2 holes for the roll pin. align this dimple with the mark on the bottom of the dizy shaf housing. insert dizy into head, the rotor will turn as the cross cut gears align and should point you to #1 point.

I disagree, I think getting the same ammount of air in there at a higer velocity is a good thing unless your trying to build a high rev motor. Now I think having a little more cam duration instead of a bigger valve would be more benificial. It seems the Heawork section at redz31.com give the same idea... http://www.redz31.net/pages/headwork.html#valves

I actually did a write up with pictures... its here somewhere...

This is a normal symptom for a vehicle with intake, headers & exhaust above idle mixture is atomized better so the higer octane does not burn as slow as it would in a stock engine. at idle it may be buring to late and thus lowering your idle. choices: You can try a base timing of 16 deg to help your idle if you wish to keep running 89(the ecu will resume its normal ignition curve once you step on the gas so only idle is changed) I don't think the added cost of 89 is worth what it does... -you can run 89 as is, I don't think the added cost of 89 is worth what it does... -you can mix octane by pumping 1/4 tank of 89 every other fill. (this has provided good results for me) -you can just run 87 and possibly changing timing to 14 deg may have the same smoothing effect(more cost effective) -you can run 87 as is, this is the simplest choice and is cost effective. Your engine will not suffer. I been going with option 4 for a long time. when I got my MSD in I things got even smoother so I went to option 5 and things stayed smooth. I save more $ this way too.

Ideally you should lift first... Run them real close to the body (and don't come down on them hard) they should be fine once you BL.

If you have 4.36 gears then 32702-33G17 will get you acurate with true 31's. It has 17 teeth If you have 4.63 gears then 32702-33G18 will get you acurate with true 31's. It has 18 teeth oops, I think its differnant for the electronic speedos

Oh, I thought they were both straight 6's I guess the td27 is an L4? I guess I was thinking how all the sohc vg blocks were swapable vg20, vg30, vg33.

4x4parts.com has rear aribag kits for $150 IIRC. I'd say thats the way to go for towing or loading. You have the added asist for when you need it and you can air it down for the softer stock ride when you have an unlaiden rig. Also about 90% of the aftermarket springs out there acheive lift thru the use of a higer spring rate instead of a longer coil. I think OME springs are specifally deigned for loading capabilities with lift as a secondary function.

x2 it can be nice on really heavy rigs & superlight buggys where specific valving makes a big differance but pathys fall in the range where regularshocks are fine unless you need high speed bump sensitivity and by that time you are prolly making many other suspension mods to allow it to multi-track that fast.

would the y60 Patol td42 swap into a td27 pathy? I have heard good things about those engines...

It doesn't have to be visible to still be leaking. Anyway you can take them out and have them professionally cleaned or you can run injector cleaner. Be careful, most I have had trouble with putting something other than gas in my gas tank causing issues with injectors. The only products that have not caused issues are Gummout Regain(full bottle to full tank), seafoam(1/2 can to full tank) and once upon a time acetone(1.5 oz per 5 gallons). I think the TBI injectors are just finiky and sensitive(and expensive)

how about billet aluminum crank pullies with the stock drive ratio?

Agreed, but even after heat, PB & 2x BFH shocks(BFH on each side) The pitman puller was doing some scary flexing when and poping when trying to pull the arm off my old box(the arm never came off). Taking the newer one off to drill it for my HOOHAA was also flexy. stupid pitman pullers need more than 2 fingers. If I ever need to pull one again I may make one out of 1/4" that forms a cup to wrap arround 120* of the arm so that there is no flexing That would have been fun.

Idler thankyou.

I have heard that you can go pretty far with injection pump tuning on the TD27... we don't have those over here but I would guess they would be better.

get a fuel ps testor for harbor freight and hook it up between the filter and the tbi. Run the truck for a few min to get the air out of the lines and then turn it off. trun the key but don't start the truck this time. the Ps should sould say 35-38 when the pump first kicks on. once the pump shuts off it will drop off a little... If it drops below 30 in 10-20 min you have a leak.

My Idler was shot so when I did the mod I had allot less went to having zero wander after hitting regular bumps and potholes. YES, Manual box + Power pitman and slot both upper holes. I think it was 83-85 nissan 720 pickup 2wd and 86-87 nissan hardbody pickup 2wd after 87 I think they were ALL power steering... Update me if you find out I'm wrong so I can change this post...

I just used a 12point box end. I cant remember what size but it fit perfect.

If its just the leak your concerned about the seal is like $5 once you get the arm off using a pitman puller. If you want the real deal Get a JY box and send it to redhead for service that way you have less down time.

its colder, your wearing your nylon and poly leyers to compensate. so u zap yourselft lol

exactly, it controls sway by twisting like a torsion bar and wanting to return both ends to the same height. with one end disconnected there is no force to twist it so the free end just does whatever the opposite end does.

88 did allot of stuff with his TBI where is he these days?