MY1PATH

lower bj's ARE a pain compared to the uppers. x3 on taking the hub off(snap ring too) and sliding it out some. p.s. your BJ was trashed!!! I only seen that happen one other time and we were ther 1/2 drug 1/2 carried some little old civic out of the intersection to free up traffic...

there's gotta be a hella or piaa light that can go into that fixture. but then again were not all made of $$$ so JY hunting it is.

that 4 light grille looks awesome. How's the lighting? do the centers ajust well?

yes It takes a while to clean out the inside of the engine. 1/2 can of seafoam or 8oz of ATF 100 miles before each oil change will help clean it out faster. Aslo consider changing your oil early while its getting dirty fast to protect the lifters from the freshly suspended dirt.

once you get the part pictured in post #6 the link below is your best option for the lamp. It uses interchangeable bulbs instead of being a seald beam and the light output is tremenous esp when you combine with a relay mod. I would have done this myself exept my I had already done my own lighting before I found out. But I do have a 2nd pathy so I could do a side by side comparision now lol. http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/default/auxiliary-lamps/halogen-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/vision-plus-conversion-headlamp/

Oh, His member info says 1987 so ya... Update your year buddy.

un-plug it, if things get better that is a sign it needs replaced. They usually don't throw a code when they fail.

the A/c works. Its the backlighting for the a/c. and I wish it were just a blub but the word 'A/C' on the swich is on the same dimmer circut and also does not work. I think they tapped into the dimmer circut when they did the stereo and did not leave the A/c lighting in tact. and likely cut the power for cruise and routed it to the stereo as well. one day I'll open it up and see... OK, both bulbs were out. Got the one for the panel replaced but I still need to replace the tiny micro bulb that lights the "A/C" letters. I tried had 5 JY micro bulbs and they all tested bad. Funny, My 89 had an led on cricut board inside the swich instead of a micro bulb. The swiches interchange so I wonder why they changed the internal design on the newer one...

also if it only does it when coasing (not when sitting) Your dash pot may be letting it down too fast. THis would not but the source of the problem but adds to it none the less. Check in the how to for TBI component listing article for ajusting the dash pot after you have looked into the suggestions above.

I gotta say that is a nice ride. I had to borrow one in and emergeny situation not too long ago. It was an emergency so I don't remember all the details but I think it was the 2010 tacoma with a 6spd auto. never driven an auto with more than 4 spds. The whole rig left a very good impression on me considering the short time I spent in it.

x2 if your going MPFI otherwise take care of your TBI manifolds and intake, you'll need it to swap over. Get some Gunk Engine Brite(a few cans) and spray all the stains down in your engine bay. after it sits for a few give the heavy areas a scrub and let sit some more. then give all areas (even the un-coated ones) light scrub and hose everything down. Swap out your old fuel and AT lines(if you have em) and inspect eveything for corosion or damage. THis will be your best easy acess time for that kind of maintainace.

That's exactly what happend. There's a handfull of things that happend before I bought the 94 that I need to correct and prolly a few nasty surpiresed waiting for me too.(like above lol) My next one will be fixing the Cruise contol and the A/C backlighting since (acording to the PO) both stopped working after the stereo was installed.

sequential fire is better anyway. You'll have more consistant AFR ratios and less rich spikes. better power & better mpg

OK, I gotta be differant.... I just used this recipie on my 94 and its starting to run quieter But I been running it for some time in my 89 and she purrs. The Castrol GTX High Mileage is a decent priced and just above average quality dyno oil. The Royal Rurple Is a top line, expensive synthetic oil that contains ZDDP and is blendable. The Schneider Racing Cams Formula 3 is ZDDP rich and keeps my waranty in tact.(my 89) OIL; 2qt= 5w30 Castrol GTX High Mileage 2qt=10w30 Royal Rurple 4oz=Schneider Formula 3 Now Wait, the 4x4 VG only holds 3.5qt of oil... Yes, on my 89 I have a remote kit running to my tranny crosmember and I use a slightly taller filter. This filter also fits on my 94 with no remote kit and is easier to install/ remove because it stick out from the manifold a little more. Here her are the Part number cross references I use in order of preference. I usually get the Bosch because it is most redily available. #1) Purolator PureONE - PL20195 2) Bosch - 3422 3) Mobil 1 - M1209 4) K&N - HP2009 5) Motorcraft - FL400S 6) FRAM Tough Guard TG3600 (all other FRAM oil filters are inferior) #Note the PureONE is very dense filter element, it will restrict flow the most when it is clogged. If you have a dirty engine you'll have to change filter more often or run one of the others untill you get it running clean.

I usually buy 2 gallons and do my t-case at the same time.

so I been suffering poor mileage on my 94... I checked all the vacum lines and found the upstream EGR line disconnected. Plugged that in and things didn't get any better. My coolant wasn't getting above 150f so I drained a gallon and added some fresh 100% (too much water can make you run cold) then I checked my timing..... 10degrees BTDC and the dizy is maxed out! so one of 2 things is can be; cam off by a tooth or dizy off by a tooth. (please not the cam) Now the dizy ajustemets are 7 degrees from overlaping between teeth so I feared the worst (moving one tooth would max me the other way at 17) but I checked anyway. Under the cap there is evednce of a very bad mechainc. the CAS cover is distorted and covered with tool marks and the rotor can be moved!!! CRAP! So it looks like someone took a visegrip and spun the rotor when they couldn't get it off and it jacked up everything under the cap. THe screw that holds the rotor on was stripped, the keyway for the trigerwheel was compelely rounded and so was the alignment tab underneath it. GRRR! Fortunately the CAS and everything below it was still ok and I had spares to get it runing at 15 degees again but I still need to replace the top pice thats stripped. It doesn't show any signs of corosion so I know it wasn't rusted on when this happened someone was just an Idiot!!! I dono who but GRRR!!! Thanks for reading my rant, I'll have an update on mpg and driveablilty in the next few days. Hopefully now it will get better mpg than my Lifted, big tires & TBI 89 Now its also a wonder how I passed emissons so well with the engine 20f too cold, one egr vacum line disconnected and 10deg timing. Like it wasn't a barely pass, it was blow the test outata the water pass.

yes royal purple Meets both standards therefore tho is has the protection level of a gl5 and it also has the corrosive phosphor removed in accordance with the GL4's spec. IIRC 1 gallon mt90 is like 55 bucks direct from redline.

mine are good front diff, tranny (+dummy stering box in my case)and t-case all meet up at a vent high on the firewall. and my rear has been extented to vent in cab just above the tail lights.

Redline MT90 (75w90)-Full Synthetic GL4 made specifially for our type of transmission (japanese & "soft" internals) I order it direct from redline by the gallon and it gets to me in 3 days. Royal Purple 75w90- Full Synthetic GL4 & GL5 (can use it on tranny, t-case AND diffs) Found at most local retailers and is compatible with other types (can mix with blended, dyno, mineral etc...) Nissan GL4 (75w90)- Dino oil, can be ordered at most dealers... I prefer one of the above. I change my tranny and diff fluids on a ~2yr interval IF I did get a little water in them from crossings I would splash some seafoam(4oz) to will dry them out and the water vapor would escape thru the vent line. But if you keep up on your seals (inner axle and input/output shafts) water has a very hard time seeping in there. IME

just make sure you wire an interrupt to the clutch switch, break switch, or neutral safety switch so that it shuts off if anyone tries to drive it.

you know you can stick those hoses in the oven at ~240+ degrees and force one end over a ~1/8 larger (1.5"+ hoses can even go ~1/4" larger) fitting and when it cools it will mold that way. so if you find one that makes all the bends you need open one end up a little.

i thought the top and center piece unbolt? I know the center does...

"air rushing in" is a misinformation. Gasoline is constantly vaporizing, the emptier your tank the more room there is for vapor and the vapor likes to expand. Thats why, if you fill up after a constant 300 mile drive you hear a woosh, because all that vapor has not been able to get thru the canister yet so it RUSHES OUT. this is also why some emissions stations test your gass cap; to be sure it is no constantly venting to atmosphere. the canister does vent but the vapor has to get thru a pile of carbon first which slows it down and stores some of it which gets sucked up thru a vaccum line when the engine is running. All fuel systems are postive preassure or neutral preassue. if your open lines are leaking remove the gas cap, they will stop quick.

stuff a rag inside the back of the tranny so it don't drip when you go up a hill or hit a bump.

IIRC if you put it on backwards your crossmember bolts won't line up. I know I put mine back backwards when I replaced my t-case and had to switch it.