MY1PATH

Yes, it will work but why not take the LSD to boot?

Start with a big U channel or a 2x6 box and weld bumper brackets to it. Tie some re-enforcements in further down the frame, cut out holes for the lights you want to use, cap the ends and paint it. Very simple plan others have done more and they will chime in. Or they started there an modified the plan a they went along.

x2 that or an electric carby pump from another vehicle. All carbs run under 10 PSI.

Runnning the MSD with the VG30; If you are running an aftermarket coil with it I reccomend you use 8mm or larger wires and make sure they seat. Use a paperclip or coffe straw under the boot as you seat them to get all the air out or they May burn things MINE DID . also inspect your cap and rotor frequently. Plug choice, yes MSD says you can run 2 heat ranges colder but the pathy ignition was pretty strong to begin with so really the NGK BKR6EY is the best option for all sohc VG's running the MSD box. (which is stock for the 90-95) Just run the gap to .045" and enjoi This is also the only plug that sits as deep it does in the cyl (better ignition) the ajacent heat ranges and the other year VG's sit 3/32 shallower. If you ever need to turn the engine over by hand this box can throw a piston down if its getting power. THis happened once; it just fired one cyl, ripped the wrench outa my hand and scared the crap out of me. now lets see that exhaust vid

That's fine, glad to know your aware. Some ppl just don't know, they do all that work to put a new clutch in with a pitted or warped flywheel and blame it on a cheap clutch when it fails pre-maturely or cuases jerkyness & vibrations when partially engaged.(ignorance IS NOT bliss) Are you Gonna go with an OE type flywheel or try an aluminmum one and see if that keeps the heat down for longer life?

I'm am not deisel expert but I would be careful buying just any big brand(performance) like Holley and MSD fuel pumps. Allot of them have the tendancy to put out too much preassure(designed for 60-100 PSI systems) when it comes to small engine needs. I would look into a cheaper pump that would be easier to regulate. First I would install a fuel preassure guage and find out what normal preassure your engine runs and see if that drops off at higher revs.(good idea to test first) If it does then you also have a ballpark of what PSI you need to maintain and get a pump that can supply slightly above that and install it inline with an ajustable regulator. So that it never exeeds the stock PSI range. I hope this points in the right direction, good luck.

That flywheel really needs some attention B4 that clutch goes in. Maybe even a new one.

Somones gonna pick on you for not searching, Its in the how to section so you don't even need a keyboard. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422 those covers on the back will make you think you have a bad RMS if they leak. I just sraped the gaskets and used a bead of rtv. Swivel head rachet is very handy for the rear bolt but here's another secret; unbolt the trany pad from the cossmember and put a jack under the tranny(NOT the T-case, you could cause a leak) Jack up the tranny till it barely touches the tranny (tunnel 1-2" if you have a BL) this tips the engine foward and gives you more room to reach that bolt.

yes, it never made too much sense how 2wheel abs vehicles were only the non-steering wheels. however, In 4wd the front will not lock up (as a pair. one will, but not both) as long as the rears are not locked. This is because of the driveline coupling So technically rear abs becomes All-wheel ABS when you are in 4wd braking on a sheet of ice. I don't have ABS in my 89 but I did use the above trick manytimes to keep the fronts from locking up first when leaving my driveway.

Valves Move Less when a cam wears down. But if a lifter was stuck and the valve couldn't close than maybe. You do realize each valve has over 50lbs of force trying to pull it shut at all times. Yea, see quote below or read posting above.

I think What Sewebster means is front to back, the arm that reaches out to the link. when your righ is lifted that part of the swaybar sloped toward the axle because the link on the frame is higher off the ground. If you are sagging it will slope towards the link. Just measure the height of the link bolt from the ground and the center of the swaybar clamp(on the axle) from the ground its not that hard.

OK, I won't discredit you, that's a pretty cool device if you have and ELECTRONIC speedo. But this is a MECHANICAL speedo thread as already stated above.

wow! Good thing I use the word "nearly" when I said "nearly impossible", do you remember them fitting tight in the lifter galley when you put them in? Mine kept falling out (normal) when I did mine so I had to wire them untill they were sitting in the heads. I used Clevite Lifters and I think they were $120 +shipping from northern auto parts. They looked top shelf, no casting marks and even the non-contact surfaces were machined smooth. Looked allot better than the originals I pulled out. PM 5523Pathfinder about some eurospec cams I think they are trying to clean them out for $50 or something cool like that. You'll get pretty much the same MPG but with a little more go when it comes to highway maneuvers. So if Sealed Power hangs you out to dry hopefully you can be good to go for under $200 +break in oil. Good Luck.

You'll get your chance. Infact, the next noop that asks for the max tire size on a stock rig... You can help him, cause I won't

its only petrol over here vg30 v6 and z24 L4. But, I do know with some modifacation to the injection pump you can make a noticeable differance. One of the guys on this site talked about it maybe he will chime in and then intercooling will def add some power as well. I belive The 2 combined will allow your TD27 to rival any stock vg30 and maybe even vg33 as far as torque output.

AND PITA IT WAS maybe only 9 or 10 out of the 36 splines were rusted. Cleaning them with sribes and Knife files was a pain too. What really surpises me is I clamped the inner shaft and sild rods thru the Universal to give me somehting to beat on and the universal took all the abuse I threw at it without harming the bearings. IT extended about 1/8" per 10 swings of my 2.5LB hammer then I cleaned it up, Filled the bottom with a smooth mix of Moly-grease and gear oil and removed 1 spline to keep it from hydrolocking and spraying everywhere when it gets cycled (not that it needs it cause its motion is so little). It moves better than a new one now! Eventually I'll check my 94's and make sure it is smooth as well. Here's some pix of the finished product sry I forgot to take cleanup and spline photos. The splines inside are about 3" long, clocked with 1 wide spline and have a channel macined 1/4" from the bottom to draw oil up and down the internalsfrom the bottom. click to enlarge

E-fans work great too....

Thanks 4 the well wishes. He is out of the hospital now and things are going well. I'll still jump my pathy but I think I'll stay away from cobble stone pits.

if I'm not mistaken, he already has 33's a 3"BL and a 3" SL he's just looking for new 33's and if he can go wider since its easier to find wider.

also that vent is your t-case, Tranny and front diff. the rear diff vents inside a frame crosmember and that one should be extened up into the rear pillarif you do any kind of mud or water.

Not seized, a lifters usually chatter for 2 reasons 1 exessive play from rockers or other components being too worn 2 lifter not holding enough oil preasure and collapsing If a lifter internals are scored from lack of oil during break in 2 would be the case. If a lifter taps for a few seconds on startup but gets quiet before the engine gets warm 2 would be the case If there is constant chatter that goes away or gets quieter with RMP (not drowned out but gone) 2 Is likely the case If chatter continues thru RPM 1 is likely the case You can also take your vavle cover off and see if there is any play in the rockers. Lastly, you should know, no valve damage will occur from a bad lifter unless the outside of it is physically seized in the lifter galley and that is nearly impossible considering you just did a rebuild with new lifters. Thats the nice thing about hydraulic lifters

Depending on the Led's you get you may not need the equalizers.(some LED arrays draw over 6watts) If your blink rate is not too fast for your liking I would 4get about them.

ok so after a bad day (yard broken into, dogs temporaily gone, newborn in the hospital, accidents & other bad stuff....) it ends with getting into my pathy to go home. Turn the key, spin the wheel and well thats what it does; spin and spin and spin. Pop the hood and the steeing shaft is resting on the frame rail. Ok so a couple days later after having it towed home I start playing detective. So here's what happened. The steering shaft had seized. It is actually a 2piece spined shaft that can be slid in and out, that rubber seal in the middle of the shaft is what tiped me off. Now normally your rag-joint flexes enough that this spline stays at a set length so it doesn't have to move under normal circumsances well about 2 months ago I went wheeling in some cobble stone pits now pathy has jumped many times and had a few bad landings but NEVER JUMP A PATHY IN COBBLE STONE PITS so the force of the landing stopped the fame instantly and the body not so instantly... I picked up the broken pieces went home and said to myself NEVER JUMP A PATHY IN COBBLE STONE PITS The body pushed on the saft wich pushed on the box attached to the frame, so the shaft got shorter on impact but did not return to longer on rebound. Over the next few weeks (without my knowing) the shorter shafte had pulled the ragjoint uninon against my headder so that the bold secruing the saft would hit the headder every time I turned. Eventually the bolt came loose and the rag joint pulled back to its original positon dropping my steering shaft. Fortuately this happened when I parked at the hospital and not on the freeway... and yes I was sratching my head for quite a bit before I realized it was a spined slip shaft, rubber seal in the middle of the saft gave it away. I was looking for cracks, bent frame, bent seering box etc. The splines just had a little bit of rust in them but they are tight as it is that it took quite a lot of force, PB blast, impact and more force to get it extended again... Now I'd just like to warn everyone NEVER JUMP A PATHY IN COBBLE STONE PITS It is terribly destructive in many more ways than just the above I prolly got off lucky...

Reserved for future beatings and thread bashing....

nobody likes my uni-bit