MY1PATH

I tossed the thorley gaskets out and bought differant ones that I thought were better at the time. I think felpro was the brand I used.

you running 4.3 gears or 4.6 gears? 17t Is the closest you'll get. If you have 4.6 gears you might actually be pretty close. IF you have 4.3 gears the 17 should get you closer than you are now.

x2 http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1combine with a dummy steering box or Idler arm brace for best results. I did this on my 89 and I will be doing it again on my 94 which is a street only vehicle.

I HATE IT WHEN PPL PUT HID's IN HALOGEN REFLECTORS. The light comes off HID's in a differant way than halogens so the end result is that the light goes everywhere, not just where its aimed. This includes the eyes of oncoming traffic. HID's belong in HID reflectors or at the very least be instealled with frosted diffusers arround the bulb to correct the light patter inside the housing.

x3 on the wire. I've never heard of oil pump failure on the VG (I suppose its possible)

Up the magnaflow cats for the WD21 pop up on ebay ALL THE TIME for $60-$80 That's pretty inexpensive IMO. and the feeling of being uncorked is nice not to mention the added MPG. The magnaflow cores much less dense than the oem ones but they still perfrom just as good if not better as far as emissions go.

Like I said; As in stop at the 5/8 step on each side. this will leave you a small ridge in the center to overcome with a regular drill bit. I'm tellin ya, I've done all 3 methods and I prefer the Uni-bit for this one.

I have also had luck with cutting a slot in the remains of the broken bolt and backing it out with a flathead apex on a wrench. (still use pb blaster and a few shocks with a hammer)

oh you were clear, I'm just saying when your done fixing the turn signals your next project should be headlight relays. If they came with them from the factory your lowbeam on the old swich would have never failed in the first place.

The inside of my 79 yamaha clutch looks like a larger version of the pathfinder LSD clutch pack. I slip it all day long when stopped on a hill in traffic. I'm just saying a multi-layer large scale design could pove itslef very durable.

Wow THey are expensive for your rig! $800-$1,000 Go to magnaflow and look up part #'s http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/shopdisplayproducts.asp then search those part #'s in ebay motors. You should find some for $300 each

Someone should design wet clutches for 4x4's and by wet clutch I do not mean torque converter, I mean like what a motorcycle has; A metal to metal clutch pack, Imersed in the engines oil and can be slipped all day and may still outlast the engine.

my original clutch still had lots of life when the Tranny was was changed @ 190k a new OEM went in because it was already paid for. If you search on N4W you will find many members have run other clutches and gone back to OEM. 30k is short even for offroading, I'm guessing your flywheel was not properly surfced when you put the last one in. A stillen aluminum flywheel (300zx) may impove heat dicipation and reduce heat soak on the clutch. The machined steel contact surface Is just as tough as oem and replaceable if you warp it. The only downside is the lighter flywheel will not be on your side when Charging thru mud (less inertia in the driveline) everywhere else it should be fine.

rubbing really depends on tires and flares. Some 31's are actually ~31.5 or more, like my old 90's Laredo tires, are larger than others and will rub on tight turns and speed bumps. Hell they rubbed even when they were balder than slicks. Now my nokian 31's on the other hand are more like 30.5 x3 the on the craigar soft 8's very affordable. IF, is all realative the engines with an easy valve lifter swap at ~250k and regular maintence it will make it to 500k the rest depends on you. For example, If my 94 gets t-boned I will likely get another one. If my 89 gets t-boned I will likely park it untill I can make it road worthy again. There is no If it dies with my 89, I've had it too long.

which temp sensor did you change? the one on the manifold is for your guage the one screwed in the Cyl head is for the ECU and that controls warm up ratio. Hows your spark timing. 12~15 deg warm? are you sure? if your balancer has slipped(uncommon) or turned due to a worn keyway (common) you will get a false timing reading. so if it says 12 when its really 5 then when you cold start its fireing at 0. I'm pretty sure anything less than 4 will cause a miss.

shoulda unpluged your battery! now you need a new swich. Ok when you get this sorted out may I recomend that you run a relay for your headlights using 14ga wire from the battery to the realy and from the relay to the lights and a 12ga ground from the lights to the chasis. This will 1 increase the life of your new swich 2 prolong the life of the stock 16~18ga stock wires(now being used to trigger the realay) and 3 impove light brightness because the current does not need to travel thru 15ft of undersized wire before it gets to the light.

I have a drill press at my disposal and acess to a mill but quite simpy after doing the system the 2nd time...(used a drill press on pitman and mill on idler the first time) I found the easiest route to be with a fresh Unibit it will pickup the original size and then step up in perfect increments to avoid binding or overheating. Just hit each side of the hole and then clean out the center with a regular drill bit. This was quick well centered and easy compared to my first try and the hole had allot less play. Yes, a Very GOOD UniBit will run $30-$45+ but they are tough, turn thru cast metals like butter, great for enlarging holes while staying perfectly centered and you may find many more uses for them as well.

"doesn't like to rev" don't rev it when its cold.

31x10.50 was a stock option. 767 wheels are good but http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/671000/10002/-1?CT=999 has some simar choices for less. 3.75-4" backspacing is what you want and 8" wide. For going to the snow or mid mud you encounter for shooting I reccomend a 1-1.5" lift to go with those tires. Use the search function here I think is OME (old man emu) rear springs for the lift and you just crank the t-bars and get an alignment for the front. I also recomend 1" longer shocks for the rear but its not a requirement for 1-1.5" lift.

I don't know this guy BUT that seteering is derived fromt the Nissan pickup 2wd steering system(obviously the joints and idler are "upgraded"). If you want more reslults on performance search on nissan4wheelers.com a guy over there took the pickup 2wd system and put it on his pathy. He did a side by side on both systems.

james doesn't sleep, I seen him txt me questions @ 3am when I'm working a 12hr night shift @ work lol. Grats james, don't keep the neighbors up.

It means you'll get closser to toping out your tach before you run out of enough power to accerlerate. Some of the 5spds with 4.3 gear out there struggle in 5th but can still make it to 100 or close.But barely because they run out of power. Put some 4.6 gears in an you will reach that speed or higher a little easier and be able to get closer to redline before you run out of power. If you had a bigger engine behind the 4.3 gears then yes, 4.6 would limit your top speed but both are still capable of close to or over 100

THe shift kit TNZ did seems like the way to go, I got one on order but I don't know when I'll actually do it. The kit is designed for a tranny that already has a ton of miles on it to correct factory isuess and improve drive quiality.

THe 3.0 runs a strong ignition system with an independant coil so gap can be set to .042~.044 The tbi was happy with the big gap. For whatever reason the 90-95 running the same ignition power (differant mfgr tho) went down to ~.032 this could be due to the MPFI and having an injector right at the valve increases potential to fouling. Or maybe "1 gap for all models" and the .032 encompases the turbo models in the z31... But they still run when gaped to ~.042 The 3.3 runs an integrated igniton system with the coil under the cap. soposedly less energy is lost but peak output is generally lower but not always and for whatever reason the gap goes back up to 0.042~0.044(your answer) I do not know the ignition power of the 3.3 maybe it is higher, maybe they decided the risk of fouling was not as great as they thought maybe 3.3 injectors atomize better so fouling was not a concern maybe the shorter cam delfects the air stream in way that it mises the plug untill compression maybe a new set of engineers overlooked whatever reason the mpfi 3.0 had smaller gaps. How many licks does it take to get to the center of a toosie pop? -the world may never know. \/ For all of you reading my thoughts that just poured onto the keyboard I apologize lol. see the short version below \/ No harm will come from running any VG engine at ~0.042 gap. Gaps grow over time and (somtimes over 0.005)use so air on the short side if you are unsure of your accuracy. How fast they grow depends on use and plug materials. If you get fouling reduce your gap in 0.005 increments and search for other possible sources of the problem.

Channge that zerk for a 45* That BJ fits on many vehicles and not all of them are so obsure.