MY1PATH

the r50 and d22 versions of the h233b use 33 spline side gears whereas the d21 uses 31 splines. this is simple, just swap the side gears when you swap the diffs. while your at it (if your using lsd)make sure the discs stay stacked the same order as they came out of the d21 diff. the newer diffs were stacked in a differant order that reduces lsd traction.

with 180amps wearing out an alty is not a problem for me. and as far a wheeling; no problems so far, even submerged or when running high engine speeds with nearly zero foward motion. I guess it depends on the durability, quality and amount of air the chosen e-fan can move. I'm outa town for a week but I can send the clutch to whichever taker when I get back. I is old and worked last I used it but it has been on a shelf for 2 years.6+

most products aside from straight water leave streaks on my windshield. I have 3 theroys. Old pitted windsheld causes streaks wiper spring is worn out cause no number, type or length of blade helps both 1& 2

now how you can you trust a guy who sent me an 18" k-brace when he specifically asked me to measure it and I told him it needed to be 22" or something. Have fun waiting 6-12 months and constantly feeing like your being pushed aside. And watch out for sharp edges and ****** welds when your product finally arrives.

Thats the JUN stroker kit isn't it? don't buy anything from JUN its way overpriced. If you want a stroker you should contact Paeco in Florida. they can cut you a stroker crank from billet(no offset grinding) and shorter pistons (with desired compression ratio) starting at $2k. the options go up from there and there are severlal other companies that make forged pistons for the pathfinder.

I just did mine yesterday, took about 3qts. If its low it will cause more lockup but filling it up will not stop uneven tire wear(nothing can) but it will slow it down. Nowadays a good 75w90 gear oil should say on the label that it has lsd additive in it("good for limited slip differentials" will prolly be the exact wording) if it doesn't say it then buy some additive or go with a better oil.

your best bet is to get a whole new unit that features a roller instead of a glide for the upper cable. gravity helps it on the way down so the lower glide lasts but the uper one cuts thru with use untill it drops the cable and either wraps up the motor or does like yous is doing.

I have a cluch if you want it. In the cold it would only bind for about 15-20 seconds(last I used it) what are these great drawbacks to going electirc? I have not had a singe issue since I went electric.

Honestly, without a cam I think your stock ECU should be able to adapt to your existing changes just fine. Make sure your MAF is clean and your o2 sensor is new and then re-set your ecu by leaving the battery unpluged for about 4 hours. Before plugging it back in turn the key and hit the bakes a few times as this ensures the drain/ reset process is complete. once re-connected you ecu will re-learn how to manage you engine based on the readings your existing mods are giving the sensors. If you are have a "cali model" rig I have heard you can try running a federal ecu for a little more kick and just go back to the cali ecu if it fails emissions. Just be sure you let the ecu have a several driving hours to get itself fully efficent before you smog test.

how about the fwd main seal & oil pump seal. IF you have a drip from the front end(like I do) and its not leaving a trail from the cam seals you may want to do those as well.

I belive there may have been a conlsoe without the puny glasses holder that is not as long. If you find one it may work.

People keep asking me that so I guess I should go out and take one... Ok so the one with compas and temp sticks down and gets in the mirror So I used a nissan altima mirrior IIRC because it hung lower an 80's 2dr accord mirror among many others fit as well but I wanted to keep it nissan. if you get the plain unit the stock mirror should be fine. Theres 1 screw inside the tiny glasses case (won't fit any of my shades) so I bonded a t-nut to the roof. then there are 4 spring clips the fwd 2 you can carefully drill and file square holes for them to snap into the sub structure. there is no sub sturucture for the aft to so a took a strip of aluminum and put the holes in it so that it pulls the headliner down to the console and the. 3 solid mounting points seem 2 be enough and the floating point from the stiff headliner helps more than I thought. the roof is shaped differant so the aft edge has to be shaved to a flat contour. Wires were tricky because there are 4 black wires. 1 wire is ground 1 goes to the magnetic pickup in the speedometer(pre 90's can steal the pickup from a newer cluster. 1 goes to a temp sensor(still looking for one) 1 wire goes to your acc ligt switch so that it dims with your headlights. the dome lights I wired independant but you can wire them to the door if you like via the wires from the stock dome light. this will not fit sunroof wd21's http://npora.ipbhost...ndpost&p=156155 sorry I got carried away lol.

I added a compas & thermomometer console from a 97. Its lights are 10x brighter than the factory dome light having a compass is neat to but I wish I could find a correct temp sender for it.

K turns out the bronken one this time is allot thiner than the other side, I cannot remember if the other one was like that. Also putting a LH clamp on the RH will not be as easy as I thought as the weld interferes with the frame... with the JY's closed and a determination to get this buttoned up (hopefully for the last time) I did what I usually do. Make it work with what I have. First I reamed up the bottom hole to 1/2" then using the sheared of braket as a template I ofset my templeate in the bottom hole enough to align my new hole away from the edge of the bracket and BAM!! I have an ambideterous swaybar clamp. time for a test drive. 3Hrs later; so far so good. Haven't put it thru any sharp turns or curvy roads yet but maybe I'll do that on the way to work.

3) Try loosening up the nuts on the end link bushings a ways Thanks 510 for valuable experience. Is there a sleve inside the bushing to prevent strut rod wear on the wd21?

I think subaru's use r200's too so thats even more ppl chasing after them.

Glad your feeling better Glad your pathy's running better Glad restting you ecu with a new sensor helped you gain full benifit of all your mods.

update; I found very new looking OEM clamp bushings on a JY pathy I am goning to try those, wish me luck.

So years ago I got sideways on a gravel road and when a fence slowed me down I noticed that one of my front sway-bar end links was snapped. I replaced the endlinks and bushings with energy suspension kit from rugged rocks. this kit came with new clamp bushings as well that fit VERY tight. Soon after, my driver side swaybar clamp sheared off @ the weld. SO I took the front sway bar off for a few years... A few years and a few inches taller my pathy is going to cali so in Prep I decide to try the front sway bar back on since the lift has made it more boat like. Using a clamp from a JY pathy I set it up again and for a while it drove like a car... Once again the driver side clamp has broke. Looking @ the pieces I broke the 2nd & 3rd time it seemed nissan made only RH clamps and just cut off the tab and welded them backwards for the LH leaving a brittle double welded area for the driver side clamp. with only 4 days till the trip (yes B we are now trying to come on the 4th) I'm going to try 2 things. 1) shave down the clamp bushings. perhaps they are so tight that when the swaybar twists it puts too much load on them. 2) Run a RH clamp bacwards on the LH Since I belive the RH clamp may be less brittle. getting the backwards clamp tight should be interesting. and in case anybody didn't notice, the FSM states 58-65 ftlbs on the bolts for the clamp and to hold the clamp the frame. It should be 18, and they will strip before 40flbls lol

only the pearl white special editon, the standard model with LSD for that year was clutch type.

just fyi those High doallar tomei, obx, and other "hellical" type lsd units all act like open difs as soon as one wheel leaves the ground.

or use an HB tansfer lever.

Idono, It doesn't seem very convincing to me, I'd prefer a clutch time LSD like the rear. If I remember correctly the numbers for existing units were something like this: the rare 300zx units were a 60-80 ftlb break away the upgraded nismo frontier front lsd was a lame 40 ftlb break away calmini an 4x4 parts still wont tell me the breakaway torque of their units I think the wd21 rear lsd is in the 280 ftlb threshold and the r50 & d22 were lower due to differant staking order of the discs. Being the the front has CV joints and steering I would guess staying below the 80-100 ftlb range would help steering and part preservation. If only I could find a 300zx with one or find out more about the calmini & 4x4parts units.

a lock shop charged me 20 bucks to key my new cylinders(they can re-set used ones too). So all my keys stay the same.

Theres 2 switches for the indicator (so the ligt comes on in 4h & 4L but not N) on mine the wires rotted thru so after removing them I just soldered new wires on and all has been good. Be careful not to lose the check balls, I believe there are 3 behind each switch.