94extreme

maybe it is internal it may not necessarily be the trq conv. it would slip in all gears if the torque was similar otherwise no.

yeah, check the connection first otherwise it is the 02.. they tend to act up for a while before they completely expire.

yep trq converter but it still could be the solenoid.

there is something about their shocks and trailing arms or whatever.. look in that area for the right info.. r50 shouldn't sway at all when everything is in order.

r50 that's a known thing.. i'm sure there are write up in that section. something ain't right.. check everything again. the panhard (or any of them) may feel tight to your hand but not to the 2 tons of steel rolling down a road.

panhard bushing? check them all back there.. as well as the front.. it could be your CL or something and it may just seem like the rear is swaying.

check the wires to the knock sensor.. otherwise i bet that is it.. o2 will throw out it's own code or it won't throw anything out.. knock sensor threw one out so, it's either bad or the connection is loose or whatnot. as to 02 and knock sensor codes being related.. i'm thinking you may be confusing r50 here.

nice to hear.

1. how do you do it? and what vent? 2. i'll have to check now.. i may be confusing with one of my other vehicles. lol

that was my vote while reading this. you could just dirp some water down it. also, the italian tuneup tends to clear up things like this too. so, where the heck do u live to get rust on the inside of the tb? a small island? or has your truck been sitting for a longer period without being fired up?

cool!

1. did you depressurized the system by pulling the fuel pump fuse and then letting the truck ran out of gas? 2. did you pull out the little PLASTIC tabs to release the hoses? those plastic catches are hard to tell so just feel for them.. slight pressure in the right directions should do the trick to release the hoses. after that the hoses should pop right off.. easy as butter.

do you have owner's manual? suggested fluids are in there. i say that as they changed a few recommendations here and there and i don't know exactly about you 89. some of the earlier t-cases had gl in them.. most latter had atf in them. etc.. if your truck is manual then i'd suggest just going to all the same GL4 <-- very important in the tranny, in all diffs, tranny and the TC. i went that way and like it as i only have to deal with one kind of oil. as to exchanging these fluids: lay down under the rear pumpkin and have a look. there is bolt in the underside with a square hole.. a ratchet handle fits in there.. but first find one just like it that is higher on the diff. undo that one first. same goes for the t-case and the front diff.. same deal there.. undo the upper bolts first..

it could be just connection issue.. there are a few threads around here with all the possibilities discussed.

you have to give it a second or three for everything to quit moving inside the t-case before shifting.

sign is a warning, that's it.. that's how it is in my state.. tx is most likely completely different.

was it premeditated? that's murder.. otherwise it's manslaughter.

maybe manslaughter but definitely not murder. sad tough but there is a lesson in that.. watch where you go.

i have pretty stiff shocks and am really thinking of going to some that are softer.. hmm.. the only time i like mine, is when i am loaded up on a long distance trip.. it even wheels better with a load but most of the time i'd rather have some better response then hard jarring.

just learn to drive a tick and you will not mind it at all.

definitely keep it all out of sun light.

thanks kingman.

are you sure the other battery is FULLY charged? pita

^^^ yeah, i wheel in 4lo most of the time. thank goodness for the stick.

stick with factory timing.. last time someone here was dicking around with timing, it didn't turn out well.