94extreme

+ all the other stuff you need. i think you're looking at close to U$1500 by the time it's all said and done.

yeah but i think one of these automatic ones wouldn't be an issue as much as a redneck locker. but an arb you release the air and lokka or others like it will kind of unlock in the corners. so yeah, difference.. welded ones never come apart unless you fubar please, definitely.

i can't recall but i bet it's pump like the brakes and then undo the bleeder screw, let it all out, retighten the screw, then release the pedal.. then back to pumping and so on.. try that multiple times.. maybe you let some air back in at one point or another.. i'd do that before i'd rip into the tranny.. big hassle.

how did you bleed it? there are some instructions for that process somewhere here.

yup

^^^ look at the welded diff (pirate 4x4) thread. DaveOZ, definitely and while you're talking to them, find out if they still make them for the wd21. oh, and i really would like to have one in the front diff and not so much one in the rear. thanks as to welding.. that's not even close to being the same as an auto locker.. what are you on alexrex?

he can also just test the coil with a multimeter and check its resistance each and every way.

the old ones must have been replacements too unless instead of the zerqs they have bolts in the holes.. that's how both of my trucks came from the factory. btw. i think it's autozone that has bj's with the nipples. same for tie rods. the ones that are sealed are just that.. slap them on and go..

t-belt? coil? ...

edicer.. find the thread(s) about this in here.. there are a couple of ways to a direct swap.

i think it's the ecu that does all those adjustments.

i didn't say anything about zone checking the error codes.. his charging system is what we were talking about at that time.

it wouldn't hurt to check the AT fluid. ecu diagnostic time..

autozone will check it for free.. maybe others too. i can't remember if the ecu has a mode to check the charging circuits but the write up in the "how to's" will tell you for sure.. and you could check it yourself too but you'll need a volt meter to do that.

oh, it will do something, for sure, i just doubt it'll actually clean the o2.

huh? that's simply not true. the alt does charge the battery.. that's one of it's funtions. the e-at button does move the shift points down. it's not just for towing but anytime you need some extra power. works well on inclines etc.. is the CEL on 95shakin?

sweet. keep us posted about what you hear from them. i'd rather have this then a rear lock, any day.

bench bleed the MC.

the search function will improve soon.

yeah pos or junker come to mind sometimes.. other times it's either or and many times it's just my truck. i don't pet my truck so no pet names.

yup. dogs love trucks.

just unplug it up front. no need to pull it out just yet but check the ecu first and recheck you previous work.

there is good info on cleaning the MAF here.

i don't think you can adjust your richness but since you said it started after you did the tuneup.. check all that again as i bet that is where your problem lies. O2 could be bad without the CEL.. run the diagnostics.. when mine went dead, my truck ran really rich for a while.. if you're at sea level or close, just unplug the O2 and see if there is a difference.. if the o2 is good, there shouldn't be much of a noticeable difference

dude, it's a TRUCK and not a car. it's not a track car but a 4x4.. if you expected a speed demon off the line.. you made some bad assumptions.. but yeah, do the tuneup at least and check all the other vitals.. you'd be surprised how all that effects the performance.