94extreme

k9's right.. just twist and then pull on the rubber boot part instead of the wire itself.. no problem.

nah, go with 22s.

you may want to ask ES for a clarification or find a pic..

holy s%^$!! :D

no it doesn't.. look again.

burp it anyway.

ahem:

nope.. my bad.. he's trying other stuff first..hmm..

he said no codes.. and i don't agree on the idle jumping when you turn the wheels all the way to one side.. the idle will go down under the load. same goes for AC.

have you checked your timing? i highy doubt that idle or any other thing is your problem all of a sudden.. you messed with the heads thus you had to mess with the dizzy.. MAF is a possibility; timing would explain most of your other issues also. i'm thinking my cold idle is about 800-1000 and warmed up 600-700.. under load (D or 1st) and warm it dips to maybe 500.

1. burp it... or loose belt on fan 2. loose belt on alt 3. 600-700 is about right.. re adjust the idle to where it was before.. this could be a timing issue.. 4. see all the above first.

yes, the gapping makes difference and you need to have them within specs..

lol.. no kidding.. i say just lose the body.. better aerodynamics, mileage and all that fresh air..

the redline is marked on the dash tachometer. some say their truck cuts out at that point; neither of mine ever did..

yeah..

save another one if you can't save the one you have.. there are plenty out there in the $1000 range.

many have it on the inside.. but i think you'd also have to switch to an electric fan just because of the room. the front plastic piece comes off in just a few 1/4 turns of a few plastic attachment "screws".. there is 6 or 8 of them.. just have to look close.. they are in square holes, irrc. when my AT was fixed the also put the aux cooler.. it was attached to the front of the AC "rad" and down low.. i doubt they removed anything up front... maybe the bumper..

we got'm in the net.

hahaha.. good one... you got nothing to worry about..,, there are a few here that had to deal with with winter temps you probably will never see. at that point the main thinking is to keep it in the positive numbers in the cab. check how to's in the garage.. i am sure there is whole thread about this in there. hmm don't see it.. i am sure there are at least a couple on this.. there used to be one about easy changing your own ATF.. hmm.. bump them up if you come across either.. bad design.. the baffles are too tight.. the other thing that happens is that nissan recommends 30k ATF change interval (i think) and who really does that.. most never change it until it blows up about 100k... that's what i did.. so once the cooler gets plugged then all your issues quickly shift to the trans itself.. i saw the atf looking crappy in the morning.. the truck didn't make 100 mi.. maybe 60 or so.. i tended to check the oils on that truck pretty often.. at least a couple times a week, i'd say...

you know i was just razzing ya.. it makes sense but high compression engines tend to have the belts.. tension, give.. dunno.. i'm no mechanical engineer.. a gear would work but at high RPMs... yikes.. watch out..

oh, also the hayenes is sufficient. i used it before this forum was ever around..

lol ^^ really? lol yeah get it in the general area and then tweak it by ear.. acceleration and deceleration should be very smooth.. no backfires or stumbles or nothing.. just high smooth.

mine had no rivets that i recall.. hmm i think they just popped off a stud.

you must be german or swedish or something.. you ain't thinking right.. :D

oh my... i hope you get into the pathys that much.. welcome..