94extreme

the hatch is a bit hard to work on and besides, do you really want to be slamming them down every trip to the mall?

in my 94 they were round 5" or 6", iirc.

screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, hammer

lol.. you don't mind if we join this with the other thread, do you?

where do you guys see need for camber adjustment? it's all toe here.

did you check the TREs, BJs, and CL? i bet it's one of those that's busted/bent.

i bet if you made some of these pieces, they'd go.. mine has bad, bad rust too but not over the wheels.

keep it. there are reasons it's there from the factory.

he did say heater bypass.. it's an r50 so who knows.. the by-pass you and i are talking about is this one: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23162&hl= it's behind the timing belt and hard to get at regardless. right there on top of the thermostat housing and behind the timing belt cover.

no easy way that has been found as of yet. good luck.

i don't recall but you could pull the wires for the smog test if they are molded...

pull the cel bulb?

timing is off.

lol.. i sure didn't recall that. thanks man.

pics, mr. surfer?

nobody here is running NG/LP but we'd definitely would like to know more about yours. you also didn't post what kind/brand of kit you're working here with. good luck though.

i'd imagine it would be $1500 around here so for socal that may be cheap. AT rebuild here runs about 2.5-3k too. install the after market coolie though.. pulling these beast out is a total PITA to the highest degree. if you don't have the tools or don't like to break a nail, don't even think about it. work some extra OT.

you also have to loosen each one of the components (ps, alt, etc)

if the bj's are ok, you can get replacement boots. i can't recall exactly who makes them (ballistic?) but they are red in color.

the main trick is to NOT get your hands wet until after you rubbed you favorite "detergent" and got all the grease loose. i also tend to wipe my hands first on a shop towel and apply the "detergent" the second time.. then i finally rinse. if you get them wet at first, none of the stuff above works as well.

there is a cabin light in all models. i think they are the same throughout the years but i'm not 100% sure.. you can search parts numbers on parts suppliers' sites to find out for sure. also, you may want to search around here as there was a thread about a mod to that light using LED bulbs.

he said that it does it in slow speed to.. so, if you're NOT punching it then run the diagnostics mode on your ECU that's appropriate for the transmission diagnoses.

you won't always get the cel with 02 or other sensors.. that happens sometimes. it still could be another vacuum leak.. are the gaps right? wires crossing? how does the truck accelerate and decelerate while stopped in P or N? if it's smooth, it's probably not the timing.. could be maf. especially the plug.. it could be other stuff.. you'll just have start eliminating possibilites until you find the issue.

The Mr. Jim Rebirth Run.

great job everyone.