Citron

Punctuation is your friend.

Still have air in the system. Bleed the front two lines. Make sure you keep the reservoir topped off between bleeds.

It was common when I lived in Alaska to run 190 thermostat. I wouldn't worry about it. If you didn't have a IR temp reader you wouldn't even know. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Depending on outside conditions. It is common in colder climates to put a higher temp stat in so the vehicle warms up quicker, if at all. Even then, you usually need to block part of the radiator to get up to temp. Opposite for hot climates.

Abandon the line and replace it. Run it in a more accessible area.

The tire shop or tire manufacturers website should have specs on the tire that will tell you the max and min allowable width of the rim. I assume you are asking if the tire will fit on the stock rims?

I see. I assumed you guys were talking about the instrument cluster. Yes, I can see why you would want the dome lights brighter.

I have always preferred my interior lights as dim as possible so it doesn't glare on my eyes at night. I have my truck turned down to the point right before they shut off. Nice rigs.

No luck. I deleted the emails long ago, and checked out as a guest at JC Whitney, so no order history. I took measurements on the old one and then searched the site until I found a suitable replacement.

The internal roll cage is interesting. I also like the support that they have to strengthen the strut mounts. Can't figure out why they did the air intake like that, seems excessive.

That thing is already at a pawn shop and the thief has already bought drugs with the money.

Not all. I believe some Honda's use a fluid with proprietary additives. But really any hydraulic fluid should work, it is just a hydraulic pump after all.

No I meant the factory air duct. I thought you were only looking at CAI because the air duct was to expensive.

I bought an OEM one from Nissan for my 92 a few months ago for like $80. Did you try Nissan?

Will it idle in drive with your foot on the brake? If it is dying as soon as it is put in gear I would suspect torque converter. Otherwise, I would say fuel related. The mechanic should have the tools and knowledge to check the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is dropping off as rpm increase then I would suspect weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, etc.

There is generally no reason to change ps fluid. If it gets contaminated or something then you do need to change it. Usually a whine is a sign of a failing pump, unless it's a Ford. I would top it off and see if it goes away. Otherwise, run it until the noise gets really bad, then replace the pump before it dies.

Set up an account, unless you already have a Google account. Once your account is set up, then upload a video. You can make it public or private. Share the link here and done. I have only done it on PC, but I am sure it would be pretty simple on a phone since Google owns YouTube. May be easier with the YouTube app, idk.

Loose belt, loose connections, corroded terminals can all cause erratic voltage.

YouTube then post a link here. You can make it a private video that way only people with the link see it.

Daylight is around 5500k. I know I don't bother flashing people anymore that have the bluer lights, because their brights are usually much worse. The biggest thing is to PROPERLY aim the headlights to prevent blinding oncoming traffic. Most of the problems I see around here are because people put in an aftermarket light assembly and didn't aim it. Or the moron driving down the paved road with his light bar on.

Yes, you just tighten the nut. However, there is no good way to tell if they feel rough without taking them out and spinning them by hand. At that point, might as well repack them with grease if they are okay. I personally wouldn't just tighten the bearing without removing them for inspection unless it was for a short time, like to make it to the weekend when you had more time to do it right.

Your in the NW right? I have had good luck with Olympia Nissan. Nissanparts.cc is their online store.

Mine had crud in the threads and around the connector. It looked new, but returned, like someone was shotgunning parts and returned the things that didn't fix the problem. Mine was also wholesaler closeout.

I bought a standard motor products reverse switch from rock auto and it looks like it has been used. I would stay away from standard products.

I haven't tried this job, so just speculation. If the diff cover is holding you up, can you remove the diff cover and gain a little room? Also, I don't know how hard it is to get to the engine mounts, but could you loosen them and lift the engine a bit? Don't know if either idea is helpful, but some other thoughts.