Citron

Are you Irish by chance?

Do still have the pan off and access to the shift selonoids? See if you are getting the required power to the shift selonoid. Also, ohm the coil. You should be able to do both items at the harness connection right before it goes into the tranny. It sounds like a selonoid may be stuck. With all the debris in the picture, it wouldn't surprise me. I would suggest pulling the selonoid body off and checking/cleaning them. The last time I did this was about 15 years ago on a Ford, so I can't offer much direction. Do some thorough research and take your time and it should be fine. What have you got to lose at this point anyway? If cleaning the selonoids gets you another year on the tranny, it would be worth it.

I have a high pinion 44 out of a 77 if your interested. Free to good home. I don't know how it would get to you. Edit: I have lots of info on 44 but nothing on 60, so I can't help.

Your right, it certainly looks bent. To slide the trans back, your probably 85% of just dropping the trans. The only thing you may save by sliding it back is not splitting the exhaust. You may still need to drop the crossmember to slide it back because you may not have enough clearance to lift the trans high enough to clear the mount studs. But I have never done the trans on one of these, so take everything I said with a lump of salt.

I don't think it is bent. Like mentioned above, I think the damage from the bolt heads would have been obvious if it pushed hard enough to bend anything. Also, the bolt heads would show scuffing or damage.

Boy, I would think you could see some severe marks on the flexplate if the bolt heads pushed hard enough to bend it. I wonder if the starter is gunked up and not disengaging all the way. Also, I can't find where you describe what the transmission is doing that is a problem?

Do these not have the transmission sealed from the t case? Awesome work by the way.

At least you know where they are.

The R50 is fly by wire, not throttle cable? If so, you should be able to disconnect the plug at the pedal, put a meter across the potentiometer, put it on ohms. Press the pedal with the car off, and see if you have a smooth change. Or backprobe the plug with everything in service and car running and actually watch the voltage. It should be smooth, not jerky and no flat spots. That should tell you if the pedal is actually bad. I hope that makes sense? It does in my mind.

I totally agree. Resurfacing is the best option if you can do it. I just wanted to point out that the other way would have been fine too. If you can, go with the best way though.

FWIW I did a lot of head gaskets on Ford's 4.6L and 5.4L, probably 2-3 a month for about a year and a half. The accepted practice to clean them was a die grinder with a scotch Brite wheel. Warranty would only allow it to go to a machine shop if it came back. I never had one come back. The finished surface looked about like yours did after the sanding.

Just to be clear, brakes are still mushy with the engine running?

Sold it. I tried to impress on the buyer the value of the forum, so maybe he will get on here and the pathy will live on.

Yep. Since I moved out of the forest seven months ago, I have only used it one time, at Tahyua with you guys. I drive it occasionally just to keep things moving. A few months ago my son and I bought dirt bikes because there are way more trails around here for bikes vs 4x4. He really enjoys the bikes, so selling the pathy to fund more dirt bike stuff.

Posted the pathy for sale, so got it all washed and vacuumed.

Good luck with the yota. I may be following you soon, still debating. At least with your new rig, the aftermarket is a little more robust.

Since you have had no response, I will take a stab at it. I don't know the particulars of that engine, but the serpentine belt will have a tensioner on it somewhere. If you can locate that, then put a socket and breaker bar on the pulley bolt head and push it away from the belt to reduce belt tension. Hold the breaker there while popping the belt off with the other hand.

They will read all of the obdII codes, which should be all of the check engine lights. What the won't read is the manufacturer specific codes, which usually relate to manufacturer specific equipment.

For $25 buy a code reader.

I had one with a mild turbo and it was still pretty gutless.

Stock the 3.8 is pretty gutless. You would definitely need to take advantage of the aftermarket. I have always wanted to see a Ford 300 straight six put in a pathy. Talk about low rpm torque.

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a cnc table.

Word.

Why?

First step to electrical work is to buy a multi meter. You could test for voltage at the blower on hi setting, then work your way back until you find voltage. Then you would know which component was fried.