Citron

Either a bent rim or bad tire. Sometimes tires aren't manufactured perfectly and they will have more rubber in certain areas. Combine that with a defect in the rim and this is what happens. A good tire shop won't put that much on. Sometimes if you dismount the tire and try it at 180 and 90 degrees one of those will take less weight. If that doesn't work, then try it on a different rim and if still no go, then you have a defective tire. Warranty should cover it, they usually have a spec for how out of balance the tire can be and be considered good. The tire shop should have never let it leave like that without getting your approval.

Google electric contact file.

Ahh. Yeah that doesn't sound right.

Caster effects the centering. Generally speaking, the more caster the quicker the wheel centers and the easier the vehicle holds a straight line. The less caster, the more responsive the steering. That's why sport bikes have little caster but cruisers have a lot. Sport bikes are for cornering at speed and crusiers are for straight line down the freeway.

Just a general opinion of GM. The first 4.3 had issues with rounding the cam lobes because they used soft metal. The 350 diesel was a piece, they actually used the spark plugs holes to put glow plugs. My father in laws pickup has three different shades of red on the dash from the factory because GM couldn't get the different plastics the same color. Everything about the revived Malibu. My wife had a camero that the seats were actually turned inboard a little to fit the car, so you sat in it a little sideways. I had a 350 in a pickup that bent push rods way too often. Chevy has a habit of being behind the curve with engine technology. I remember when I was a mechanic and had to work on GM they were about ten years behind everyone else, expect Dodge who were about 15 years behind. I feel the same way about Chrysler as I do about GM. They also have a history of putting engineering behind marketing, for example the camero where they wanted a look regardless of what it did to the driver. And of course all the issues in the last 15 years due to the same issues. However, their saving grace is an excellent aftermarket.

You will be degrading the reliability by using GM. They are cheap junk. IMO.

I have the falken wildpeak m/t and really like them. They have held up well to sharp scree rock and driving over downed trees.

I don't believe applying the ground to the motor housing is going to do anything as I don't believe the motor is case grounded. You will need to figure out which wire is the ground, and apply the ground there. Then there should be a wire for up and a different one for down. At least that is what I am used to. You could also ohm the motor and check the fsm to see if it is in Spec. For that matter, the fsm should have a troubleshooting guide for the window.

I doubt it would make a difference. People run tires of the same size but different brands without issue. The PO had my wd21 like that. The size isn't consistent across manufacturers, for example even though they call something a 31 it may be 30.5 and another manufacture would be 31.5

If all four tires lock up, I don't know if the abs will do anything. It relies on the difference in speed of the wheel speed sensors. If they are all locked up, then they all show 0 speed, so no difference.

https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/vehicles/model/class-G/model-G550W44 That is what you want. Not the GL or the GK, just the plain G. Of course used ones are cheaper...

I hear you, Nissan has invested so heavily in the crap cvt. I wouldn't buy anything that had one.

Harbor freight sells them. Northern tool, Grainger, McMaster Carr, Sears etc.

It's all Greek to me.

Yes, if it's in the vehicle push up and down on the slip joint. I don't know what to tell you about excessive. I would just feel it and decide if it feels "right" or not. I have seen them do funny things when they have too much play, clunking noises, vibration etc. Usually they are dry because they never get greased so add grease and it takes out the play and everything is good. Yours, with the major movement of the front diff may have worn or damaged the slip joint. Might be worth it to feel the amount of play on a few working front driveshafts to have a comparison. Also, because of the diff movement, might consider changing u joints on the front shaft. It is cheap and easy.

Since the bushings we're allowing so much movement, it may have worn out your slip joint on the front driveshaft. Check it for excessive play, mainly radially.

Lt (light truck) usually has a little stiffer sidewalls and higher load rating then comparable P (passenger) tires. P tires might give a slightly better ride. It is really up to you and how you use it. I put P tires on my truck because I don't haul heavy weight and I was more concerned with road noise. If going in the woods I would get LT because of the extra puncture resistance with the tougher sidewalls. That's what I did with the pathy.

a device, usually a rubber sheath, used to prevent conception or venereal infection; condom. ... The noun is first recorded 1640s, "a medicine or treatment to prevent disease;" meaning "condom" is from 1943, replacing earlier preventive (1822), preventative (1901). ... A prophylactic agent ... From dictionary.com

Like someone else responded on the other thread you started, how is the transmission fluid level and condition?

Prophylactic was a term for preventative until about the 40's, after then it means condom. At least that's what the dictionary says.

Prophylactically fixed it? Exactly how does that work?

Still start with battery checks. Then fusible links like SpecialWarr suggested. If all ok, then I would check the ignition switch circuit. It sounds like that may be the problem, since no accessories are coming on with the key in accessory position. Fuses, relays etc in that circuit. You can find those from the FSM.

I assume you mean when you turn the key to start position? That is normal, no accessories should be powered when trying to start. They should all come back on when you turn it back to run. As far as the no start, no click, start with battery cables. Look for corrosion or looseness. After that, try wiggiling the key while turning it.

I would put it in members ride area. That is where build threads are supposed to be.

Lately, I have been getting OEM filters off of Amazon for about the same price as aftermarket at the local parts stores.