Citron

Shift points are more based on RPM instead of speed for manual. If it has a tow mode, just use that and let the auto work.

If you have trouble handling the load, try a load equalizing hitch.

Saturn, can't see the pics since your using Photobucket.

Nice that you learned, many people wouldn't. Getting a ticket 15 years ago for reckless driving, which is a felony, cured me. Luckily, I pled it down to careless driving, which is a misdemeanor. Learned the lesson though. Good luck with the body work.

Looking good.

Yeah, I like their site. I need to get some sheaves with ball bearings for a non pathy project I am working on.

Ah. Jamaica. Nice that you found one.

Check McMaster Carr. They carry all if those kinds of raw material to make the rubber sheet.

The new bypass hose?

What year is yours? I have done it on the vg30e. Plug the intake and the exhaust, cap the vaccum line and good to go. You won't see any power or milage gain. It will run just like it did before. The only reason to do it is if the egr is not working correctly and you don't want to buy a new one. Mine was working fine, I did it more for curiosity sake.

I would be willing to bet that the only difference is the color. Go to a junkyard and get one.

Great job! The only thing I would recommend is using heat shrink over the wire solder connection. Since it is already together, electrical tape would work to keep the hot wire from contacting. Maybe you did this already but it's not in the picture.

Two days to a year +/-. I would repair something that has the ability to leave you stranded before making a trip. It would be a lot easier to fix at home then on the road. At the least, get all the parts needed, so if it does fail on the road, it can be repaired without needing to wait on parts.

Unless testing was done nothing is eliminated, he is just guessing that the connectors, relays etc are good. If it is truly a problem with the starter, a push button will not help.

Buy a multimeter. Test the wire that energizes the starter selenoid coil. If there is no power, work your way back until you find power, then you will find the problem. Or start at the other end of the wire and work forward until you find the spot where you lose power. Test at devices and at connectors.

If they are like domestic rear ends, the rear axle bearings are lubricated by gear oil. As long as you keep clean gear oil and full enough that some can migrate down the axle tubes to the bearings, you should be okay.

Excellent example of why to do diagnoses before throwing parts at the problem.

Cold side? Never heard that before.

That is awesome. It is always fun learning a new skill. I had a pretty steep learning curve to make my bumper. I actually made a lat tower before starting the bumper just to practice welding. I would really like to see your project when it's complete.

Time to get rid of the carpet and relocate the ecu.

Do you actually need new innards? You should be able to get away with installing a new right axle shaft, unless the bearing failure damaged other things besides the shaft.

Why lose the manual in either situation? The vg33 will work with a manual transmission. There are tons of write ups and discussion on vg30 to vg33 swaps.

The internal pic looks pretty standard to me. The only odd thing I see is it looks like the retainer on the right(top) shoe is missing.

The solenoids I was referring to are for shifting. Once you drop the pan you can usually find some bolts to drop the valve body and the shift solenoids are in there. At least on the stuff I am familiar with.

In hydraulic systems, if the fluid is ported through a small opening with a sharp edge under high pressure, it will heat the oil, sometimes to the point of burning it. I have seen this when the lands of spool valves don't shift far enough to clear the oil passage. Since it was stuttering in OD, I wonder if the solenoid wasn't shifting fully, causing the burning. A bit of crud can cause the solenoid to stick, or if it is an electronic tranny, a faulty solenoid coil. Remember, this is all speculation on my part based off what I know of Ford transmissions, heavy equipment, and industrial hydraulic systems. It needs verification by the Nissan manual and some testing.