Citron

Yet another reason not to live in Canada.

Fiberglass the hole.

So glad I don't need to pass emissions test here.

Check spark.

I don't know if you have ever watched The Red Green show, but it is classic. This is an ad he did. Look up red green handyman's corner on YouTube. Like he says, if women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Yes sir. Both of them.

Took my metric tool bag out of the finder so I could use the tools to pull the engine on my wife's Subaru.

I have always had flyweels resurfaced at a machine shop. Never felt the need to replace one.

I have noticed the same thing with postimage. It must have a time limit on keeping pics. Nice pic btw.

Yes, distributor is ignition timing, camshaft is valve timing. If it is at TDC and the distributor rotor is in the general direction of #1, then you are on the compression stroke. Then, get the cam dimples as close as you can, but don't have to be exact, to the dimples on the backplate. Put on the timing belt and make sure the marks on the timing belt line up with all of the dimples on the cam gears and the crank sproket. Make sure you have the right number of teeth between the dimples, and you should be good to go. Oh, and adjust the tensioner to spec so the belt isn't too loose and slips.

The marks on the backplate are guidelines. The cams don't need to line up exactly. Get them close, then make sure you have the correct number of teeth between the dimples. With 1 at TDC. As far as compression, your timing is probably off. If the valves are open even a little in the compression stroke, then you will not get anything. Basically a repeat of what Slarti said.

It does make it a bit easier to pull the wires off of the plugs later.

I am at 265000 and also run 5w30. I only get ticking on start up.

Never knew about the yellow dot.

In preparation for a run this weekend, I pulled it into the shop to give it a once-over. Checked belts, hoses, fluids. Loaded gear. Did a light check and found that both front blinkers were out. Fixed one, ran out of time so will work on the other tomorrow. Now that I moved from the forest I only drive it once every few months.

Either a bent rim or bad tire. Sometimes tires aren't manufactured perfectly and they will have more rubber in certain areas. Combine that with a defect in the rim and this is what happens. A good tire shop won't put that much on. Sometimes if you dismount the tire and try it at 180 and 90 degrees one of those will take less weight. If that doesn't work, then try it on a different rim and if still no go, then you have a defective tire. Warranty should cover it, they usually have a spec for how out of balance the tire can be and be considered good. The tire shop should have never let it leave like that without getting your approval.

Google electric contact file.

Ahh. Yeah that doesn't sound right.

Caster effects the centering. Generally speaking, the more caster the quicker the wheel centers and the easier the vehicle holds a straight line. The less caster, the more responsive the steering. That's why sport bikes have little caster but cruisers have a lot. Sport bikes are for cornering at speed and crusiers are for straight line down the freeway.

Just a general opinion of GM. The first 4.3 had issues with rounding the cam lobes because they used soft metal. The 350 diesel was a piece, they actually used the spark plugs holes to put glow plugs. My father in laws pickup has three different shades of red on the dash from the factory because GM couldn't get the different plastics the same color. Everything about the revived Malibu. My wife had a camero that the seats were actually turned inboard a little to fit the car, so you sat in it a little sideways. I had a 350 in a pickup that bent push rods way too often. Chevy has a habit of being behind the curve with engine technology. I remember when I was a mechanic and had to work on GM they were about ten years behind everyone else, expect Dodge who were about 15 years behind. I feel the same way about Chrysler as I do about GM. They also have a history of putting engineering behind marketing, for example the camero where they wanted a look regardless of what it did to the driver. And of course all the issues in the last 15 years due to the same issues. However, their saving grace is an excellent aftermarket.

You will be degrading the reliability by using GM. They are cheap junk. IMO.

I have the falken wildpeak m/t and really like them. They have held up well to sharp scree rock and driving over downed trees.

I don't believe applying the ground to the motor housing is going to do anything as I don't believe the motor is case grounded. You will need to figure out which wire is the ground, and apply the ground there. Then there should be a wire for up and a different one for down. At least that is what I am used to. You could also ohm the motor and check the fsm to see if it is in Spec. For that matter, the fsm should have a troubleshooting guide for the window.

I doubt it would make a difference. People run tires of the same size but different brands without issue. The PO had my wd21 like that. The size isn't consistent across manufacturers, for example even though they call something a 31 it may be 30.5 and another manufacture would be 31.5

If all four tires lock up, I don't know if the abs will do anything. It relies on the difference in speed of the wheel speed sensors. If they are all locked up, then they all show 0 speed, so no difference.