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Everything posted by Citron
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Put final coat of paint on the bumper. Will install it tomorrow. Went to the jy and picked up a passenger blinker to replace the broken lens on mine. Got a driver marker light, gear shift knob that actually has numbers on it and the outer dash vent grills to replace my broken ones. All of it was from an 88 hardbody.
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Like Fleury said, toe is at tie rods. If they are good then adjust them at the threaded rods.
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Get rich quick schemes never work. 🤑
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Do you know what years had the metal shroud? Is there any difference besides the metal shroud?
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Since it is just a switch, I would expect the ohms to be really low, around 1. I don't think the OEM sensor ever gets that low. On another note, I was searching around for the threads you were talking about, I couldn't find any referencing using the stock sensor to run the fans, but I did find some talking about using the dual fans from the Maxima. That interest me because the PO put in a flexlite fan without a shroud, just zip tied to the radiator. I want to put on a shroud to improve and disperse cooling. Looks like I could get the Maxima fans from a jy for much less then a shroud for the flexlite. Do you have links to those threads about using the stock sensor?
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No it a bad price.
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Does the noise speed up with vehicle speed or with engine rpm?
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The kits I am looking at have no controller, it is all relay logic. The temp sensor is just a switch that closes at x temp and opens at y to energize the coil of the relay that runs the fan. You can also energize the coil whenever the ac clutch is operating and put in a switch to manually turn off the coil for water crossings. What you are talking about tapping into is the sending unit that has a variable output, hence the need for the resistor, correct?
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https://m.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30115 I am looking at installing a kit something like above. Does anyone know of a spot I can thread in the temp sensor, or do I need one of these inline adapters, something like below. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmwhs-38-bk?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-mishimoto&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJez4hl2fdOEWJTML3swFwEo41dSLvcIicrXdahntJwxWCP9-UVTifHgaAjC6EALw_wcB Other ideas welcome, but I am trying to do this on a budget. The Dakota Digital kit would be neat but too expensive.
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Looks nice.
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https://m.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-62621.html There you go. We had our 150kw mobile generator at work that was showing low oil pressure. I told the guy working on it to verify the problem and bought this kit to check it. Went cheap because it will probably be the only time we use it. As suspected, the actual pressure was fine, but one of the wires on the back of the gauge was loose, tightened it and everything was back to normal. Point being verify the problem, and the kit is good quality for the price.
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Finished fab work on the bumper. Start cleaning and painting tomorrow.
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I know the Titan filter is tiny. The filter wrench I used on my old 98 Hyundai Elantra is to big for the Titan filter.
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What are those codes?
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Verify the actual oil pressure. Harbor freight has an oil pressure test kit for pretty cheap. Make sure there is actually a problem before you spend more time and money chasing this.
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R50 steering pump "surge" felt at steering wheel?
Citron replied to jslarks's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Thanks for the update. -
Got about 3 hours into the bumper today. All of the wing sections are cut and cleaned up. The welds on the tube are also ground. Thought about going with led turn signals, but decided to reuse the old turn signals, so got the holes for them cut out and cleaned up. Realized I forgot to design a spot to hang the license plate, so will need to give that some thought.
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Go to an actual alignment shop, not a quick lube/tire place that also does alignments.
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My understanding is that there needs to be enough water to prevent the piston from reaching tdc. If there is enough, the piston can't compress it and it can't continue up. Then you are hydrolocked. If you are doing high enough rpms when this happens, you can damage things, blow out rings, break connecting rods, wrist pins, etc. In your case, you probably never had enough water in it to fill up the cylinder. However, the dirt has to be scoring the cylinder. Shutting it off is a good idea. Oil change asap too.
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Maybe only has the primer? Powder coat is one of the best way to paint things, so it shouldn't rust if powder coated. Unless ARB has crappy quality control.
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All the dash lights should come on when you first put the key in run. It is a self check of the circuits. On some cars the needles on the gauges also do a full sweep.
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Mocked up the wings of the bumper, the center section is mostly done.
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That is quite a screen. Welcome!
