Citron

If the cylinders aren't leaking or seized, then they are good. Get the drums turned regardless. They get a glazing on them and it's best to knock that glaze off when you install new shoes. If the drums are worn beyond spec, or have deep grooves that would require turning beyond spec then you will need to replace them. The minimum spec is usually stamped somewhere on the outside of the drum.

I am not sure how much of this will apply to yours, I am looking at the diagrams for a 92 with vg30e in North America. Unless I missed something, the only thing I see that all items your still having trouble with have in common is the body ground behind the passenger kick panel. There is a circuit breaker for the windows and locks that should be under the dash to the left of the fuse block. You could check the output and make sure you have power. Get the wiring diagrams for your vehicle and pick one item and troubleshoot until it is fixed. I think you may have multiple problems and trying to fix all at once will cause frustration.

Unless someone beats me to it, I will look at the electrical diagrams after work today.

You have so many threads going about this, I can't keep track. You had found a melted fusible link, did that ever get repaired?

Yeah, it's a great spot for a two post lift.

I knew you were up North, but Yukon! It's been 13 years or so since I was through there. Moving down from Alaska. Some vehicles have reenforced areas on the body pinch welds for lifting. Fords unibody vehicles had them, but that is the only time I would lift by pinch welds.

Use a vacuum pump, like the one for bleeding brakes. They are great for troubleshooting vacuum controlled items.

Mine has all kinds of things added from po, so I can't take a factory pic for you. Above post is not clear. Did you end up with full voltage at the ignition after the terminal cleaning?

You can pick up a mechanics stethoscope pretty cheap.

It is hard to diagnose any driveability problem while you have sensor issues that can contribute to the problem. The first step is to correct the known issues and go from there.

What lift did you do?

Yankees!?!? Why? Nice looking rig.

It sounds like air. You need to crank it back and forth WITH the engine running. Its best to have someone else crank it so you can add fluid as needed. Of course do this all with the cap off so the system can burp.

They usually get about eight gallons to a mile too!

Like the bumper. Please post what you need to do to make it fit. Oh, and the rest is looking good.

Borrowed a 33x10.5R15 off my neighbors Toyota and tested it for fit. Looks good. Unfortunately,I had to buy tires for my truck, so budget is blown this month,but maybe next month I can get new tires and get rid of my weather checked BFG ATs.

I looked in the electrical diagrams for my 92 and didn't see the light, must not have been an option in 92.

That's awesome. I use a monopod, but same idea.

Lol.

I would love to do an unusual swap, something with lots of low torque, like a 300 straight six. But mine is mainly off road, not a DD. It is mainly a pipe dream, I will run the VG until it dies and go from there. Unless you want to do burn outs and sling lots of mud, I don't see the point of dropping a V8 in these. But I am more of a slow and steady, creep through the obstacle with as little wheel spin as possible sort of off roader.

Oh, I thought you were going to use bedliner on the inside, didn't realize you meant the outside.

I wish I had the patience for body work. Tried helping a guy wet sand, I only made it an hour or so and gave up. What color are you using for top coat?

Looking good.

Lots of people have done SAS for a few thousand.

I don't think you could damage anything spinning it by hand, unless your a gorilla.