Citron

What they are talking about with the distributor is not just the cap. They are talking about the bearings on the shaft down below the rotor.

Usually, if you feel it in the steering wheel, then it's up front. Feel it in the seat, it's from the back. The fact that it does it from take off would make me agree with Hawairish, u-joint problem. If you have limited slip there is always the possibility of a shudder from the clutch packs. Then of course it could always be a bent rim or out of balance wheel, but those don't generally cause problems from a start, just at speed.

I am not on Facebook. I have refused to do social media. The closest I'll get is the forum.

I also switched to postimage. Seems like a good site.

Facebook is the 😈.

Filter should have caught anything and clogged before it got to the injectors.

If you have the plans, any machine/Fab shop with a good rep could do the work. They are usually around $100 an hour though.

I am trying desperately to get my bumper done. Living an hour drive from anything is hard. I live and work on site, so by the time I get off work and drive to town, the places I get metal are closed. Unless I can come up with some reason to go to town for work, I can only make it in during business hours once every two weeks on my Friday off. Once the bumper is done and it is Street legal again I will be ready.

Class 4 is more than the vehicle is rated to tow, heck class 3 is more than it's rated to tow.

Can you pull the valve cover and watch the valves opening?

Split the difference, go satin.

The cracked intake boot would be it, source of unmetered air, so basically a vacuum leak. Glad you found it.

Started mocking up my bumper.

Mr Elcocko had a similar sounding issue with surging under load and it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Check out his build thread for his quey for info. Might be worth looking into.

Ford said that a solder with shrink tube or a properly crimped connection with shrink tube were both approved repair methods. Personally, I always crimp, because it's quick and I can never find my solder gun when I need it. They used to make a crimp connection that would slide over a solder joint.

It may not have anything to do with your current issues, it may be contributing, or it may be the main cause. That's why I suggest getting it sorted out. Start with the things that are known issues first. If it does happen to be contributing, and it is ignored, then you will be chasing your tail trying to determine what is going on. If this were a rearend problem, then you could ignore the O2, but since the O2 directly affects how the engine runs, and your having problems with the engine, I wouldn't ignore it. How long was the O2 code set before you started having trouble?

You usually need to take those off to use the upper anchor point of a car seat. Then they are lost a few years later when you no longer need the car seat.

I would get the O2 sorted out. Since O2 is used for fuel trims, it will be hard to diagnose drivability problems with an active issue.

Is the TPS a potentiometer on these? If so, you could hook up a meter and verify if it is functioning through the whole range. The other thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. Do you have a way to monitor the fuel pressures? Did the code stay cleared?

Reving the engine in neutral uses a lot less fuel than taking it to the same rpm under load, so I wouldn't put much faith in that test. The rattling noise under load could be the exhaust leak. Unless it is more of a pinging noise, kind of like valve noise. If so, since it happens under load that could point to pre ignition. Higher ambient temps would also contribute to pre ignition and explain why it seems to be somewhat temp related. I would also verify the timing, since it hasn't be checked after changing the distributor.

I seem to remember that the new tensioner came with a new bolt.

I believe those are your O2 sensors. Bank one is driver's side, bank two is Passengers. Sensor two is the sensor after the cats. Someone please correct me if I have that backwards.

I have found that the smaller independent junk yards carry older cars. The chain junkyards are kind of a pain.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42081-pathfinder-travels/page-3?do=findComment&comment=790927 We have one.

Keyword competent. Many people call themselves mechanics, but few are.