Citron

The only heavier duty ones I know of are lift coils.

Awesome. After being inspired by you, I looked into something like this for the Olympic national Forest, but I didn't see this sort of program over here. Most of the trail clearing around here is done by fire wood cutters. There are also groups like the Olympic Mountaineers that clear trails. Besides a fire wood permit, I don't see that they require any other permit. Of course I only looked online.

I don't think it will matter, but I am not sure. Good question. Personally, I would run them unless I was having problems. Do you still have the P0300?

All I can say is I would have started with the multimeter, seems much easier then pulling out the seat and taking the dash apart. Start at the seat, check for power and ground,check continuity of the heater. See where that takes you. Whatever you don't have, work your way back from there until you do have it.

You need to buy/borrow a timing light. You can only get it close by ear, and close is only good with horse shoes and hand grenades. An auto parts store will usually have one you can use for free. As for the whirling, idk. You could always drop the subframe to allow access to the bottom end. Glad you are back up and running!

What's the yellow sticker on the right valve cover? Looks like a Ferrari emblem.

My project is still in the parts purchasing phase. I spend a little each month. I hope to start hacking by mid summer. Which axle did you use.

So going to a mechanical clutch?

If it were valve noise you would hear it at idle too. Spark knock/preignition/predetonation are all the same thing. It is the fuel igniting before it is supposed to. It causes a ticking/pinging noise under acceleration. Many people mistake it for valve rattle. That is why it goes away with higher octane fuel, the higher the octane, the harder it is to ignite. So it doesn't ignite before it is supposed to. Many things can cause spark knock. Too low of an octane fuel, timing advancing too much, too hot of spark plugs, etc. If it were truly valve noise it wouldn't change with octane, as valve noise is mechanical and changing octane would have no bearing on it.

If it goes away with higher octane, then that would be spark knock, not valves. If your vehicle runs fine on lower octane, then running higher is a waste. That is not the case here. This is a situation where higher octane is warranted.

I had 33x12.5 bfg at's 17 years ago on a 79 f150. It was my first vehicle in highschool. I was not impressed with the tires. The treads didn't self clean well enough to keep traction. I am sure that BFG has made many improvements over the years and they are probably much better now, but I will never run them for a off road rig again.

I actually bought my pathy for knocking around in the woods. I didn't want to scratch my truck. I love having a dedicated woods rig, I can go down the tightest trails with trees scraping the whole time and not worrying about it.

Correct. The final adjustment should be done with the engine warm at idle.

How are the bench seats for comfort? Any mods needed to make it fit? How does the forward back adjustment work?

If your front tires are that bad, then put your spare in place of the worst one. Put the spare and the other bad tire on the rear and your two good tires from the rear up front. See if your alignment problems go away. Should help the pulling but probably won't help the noise.

Yes, thanks for updating the thread.

How is it wired? Where are you getting the 12v, direct from battery, or from a different circuit? How are you switching it, on a dedicated switch or using the headlight switch? Just guessing without a schematic or knowing any information, I would say the circuit you are using for 12v has something else on it that is drawing power and dimming the light. I can't think what it would be that is speed related though. Any other info, was it raining when this happens? Does it happen all the time? When you slow down below 50 or if you speed up above 50 does it brighten? If you are parked and you change RPM, does the light output change?

Dealerships usually don't rebuild things, they replace. Most of a dealerships work is warranty work, and warranty only pays for new parts, not rebuilt. So dealership mechanics usually don't get much experience with rebuilding. The time I worked at a dealer I only did one rearend. Did about a 100 head gaskets though. The Triton's had head gasket problems on the early ones.

The shaft should be fine. Using super fine Emery cloth and stopping as soon as it is clean enough is the way to go. Just be careful, you would be surprised how quickly you can remove metal.

Yeah I hear that. My mirrors aren't heated, but they are power. I think the main issue is I am comparing it to the Titan, which has large split mirrors, so almost no blind spots backing up. I turn around and back out of some tight spots on trails, so the backup camera might be the best option. I will need to price that out and see if it makes sense. I have backed out of a trail for half a mile, and that long the mirrors/ turning my head was a pain.

I did a roll in bed liner and am happy with it. I can say your feet get a little toasty from the exhaust, since the padding and carpet helped shield the heat. I love not worrying about stains on the carpet from mud, dirt, kids etc.

Too Often Yankees Overprice This Auto Just Empty Every Pocket Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

1/4 mile guys are dealing with a lot more power. Comparing old school v8 with a 3.08 and tall gears in the transmission is apples to oranges to a modern V6 with a 5 or 6 speed. Gearing is really based on an engines torque and hp curves.

I vote for the utv. I would like to know why this forum is so limited on where it will accept pics. There are only a few sites it will use. I am going in circles with Photobucket on my laptop right now. Everytime I try to upload it logs me out.

What is the purpose of the ORV flag? Is that a legal requirement?