Citron

I don't think you could daily drive that. It may be illegal without some sort of inspection? You could not tell anyone though... You may have trouble finding reenforced spots on the floor pan to bolt to. You will want to bolt instead of welding, the rubber washers isolate noise and vibration between the frame and cab.

All windows stopped working? Refer to terranovations post above.

Stopped up in 1000 miles? How did that happen?

I am assuming when they tell you catalytic converter codes, they are actually talking about a downstream O2 sensor code, which is what tells you if the catalytic converter is still working correctly. Are the O2 sensors new with the new exhaust?

Air locker line?

Since this is new equipment, I would start troubleshooting before replacing anything. It could be that the cam sensors were never bad to begin with. There could be corrosion in the connector. I haven't looked into it, but I think that these are magnetic pickups. If so, they could be getting a faulty voltage from the ECM. There may be bad grounds somewhere. If you are doing this yourself, get a factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure for the cam sensors. If you are paying someone, make sure they troubleshoot and don't just replace parts.

I met a guy at a conference that had one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MDUQRSO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492980703&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=car+battery+jump+starter&psc=1 He said it works great, he had jumped his car with it before. Also, may want to look into a dual battery setup.

I dislike the look of a snorkel. I have been thinking about doing a custom job and seeing if I can draw air from the vent cavity under the driver's windshield wiper. The passenger side is for cabin air, the driver side seems aesthetic. If I can make it work, then it should raise the air intake a few feet from stock, without needing any exterior mods. It won't be as high as a true snorkel, but it should be able to handle water up to the hood level. I don't want to even go that deep, then I have a whole host of other problems. By the way, you may want to check your diffs, tranny and t-case fluids. If water got in them change the fluid asap. You don't want things to start corroding.

I do the mobile version of the forum and Photobucket app for Android

Not bad at all for free.

Under certain conditions the ECM will limit rpm, power and gears to prevent damage. It will still run though to allow you to limp home. Drive as little as possible in this mode. Read your codes and that will tell you where to start. Otherwise your troubleshooting blind. An auto parts store should be able to read it for you.

No. Do you have any check engine lights? Sounds like it is going into a limp home mode.

Could it be something else this time?

I agree with your mechanic on the head gasket sealer. Same with radiator stop leak. They both can plug small passages in your engine, especially if those passages already have a reduced diameter due to crud. They work just like blood platelets sealing a cut. They are indiscriminate in what they plug.

Google how to measure wheel offset. It's pretty easy, just need a tape.

Mine is the vg30e, but I put the blanking plate right where the valve bolts up. You will also need to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold and cap the vaccum line.

So it's sealed on bottom and drawing in through the screen on top? Seems reasonable, you would need to get in water up to the headlights before worrying about it.

Snorkel time?

My bet would be a weak alternator or bad ground. When a high load, like ac clutch, kicks on, is that when the lights flicker? You can take the battery and alternator into most auto parts stores, and they should be able to load test them. That will tell you right away which one is bad.

When the vehicle is running, it is the alternator that supports the electronics. If the battery is good enough to start the car, then that's not the problem. Starting is the heaviest load the battery sees, so that is when you will notice a bad battery. Injectors don't take enough amps to be affected by a marginal battery.

Flooded as in fuel, or water?

You would need to keep the cat and 02 sensors. The engine uses the O2 to help adjust fuel trim. EGR can go away, it is emissions only, and dumps exhaust gas back into your intake. Sure there is a little unburned fuel in there, but there is a lot more soot and things that are not good for the engine or performance. PCV needs to stay in some form. Going to the intake is strictly to prevent the vapors from going to atmosphere, and is environmental only. However, putting oil vapor in your intake isn't great, oil doesn't burn as easily as gas, and look inside your intake sometime. Between the oil vapor and exhaust gases, the intake of 90's cars are filthy. You need PCV but can vent to atmosphere. You would need to come up with some way to put PCV valves in the top of each valve cover. EVAP system captures the fumes from the gas tank. It is as unnecessary as those silly gas cans we have to use now, but it doesn't hurt anything on the engine or performance, so might as well leave it. I think I covered everything. The only one that should throw a code is egr.

That's a trick I learned a long time ago. Every project needs a new tool. My wife is on to me now, but luckily she laughs about it.

If it is only a head gasket, that isn't that big of a deal. Head gaskets are pretty simple. Cracked head, that's a different story. Unless it has been abused, it is probably only a gasket.

I feel so lucky. I have seen no rust on mine, body or frame. I even pulled all the carpet and rolled in bed liner and never found more than surface rust under the driver's feet.