Citron

The shop I used before is two hours away now. I have been kicking around diy or take it in. Besides toe, I have only done alignments with the laser machines, but I haven't worked at a dealership for years so no longer have access to the equipment. I will try to find a good local shop.

Huh, we're posting the same stuff.

Are you grounding the sensor wire in the engine by the sensor, or at the other end in the cab? The gauge grounds through the sensor. If you ground the wire at the sensor and get full hot on the gauge, then I would bet your sensor is bad. At operating temp the sensor should ohm to ground around 30-40 ohms. If it doesn't, bad sensor. Temp depends on your thermostat, but around 170-195.

There is a voltage regulator that powers the gauge. Check input and output voltage of the regulator to ground. Should be battery voltage in and 8 volts out with the key on.

Sending unit shouldn't affect running. Is it an in tank pump? Possibly the pump pickup isn't all the way to the bottom, or the pump is getting weak?

As Pathy said, the timing marks may be 180 degrees out, which is why you are not seeing them. I put my distributor back in the wrong spot and the timing was 90 degrees out, it ran like crap and took me a minute to figure out what had happened to the marks.

Can you monitor if the fans are on or off while driving? I imagine it is the hot air being trapped under the hood, and driving would help that. Take an infrared temp gun and check the temp next to the fan controller probe with the hood open and closed.

Very nice. Hard day on bumpers. Do you have a date for tahuya?

What do you guys use to check your caster and camber? I was looking at this, http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=2446&prodid=7218&pagetitle=Caster+%2f+Camber+Gauge+w%2f+Magnetic+Adapter Anyone have experience with it? Other suggestions?

Awesome! Good news. It is always nice to find the problem, and thanks for updating the thread with the solution.

Yeah, some of the odd ball molded hoses are hard to find. One section of vaccum line on mine had to be replaced with heater hose since I don't have easy access to auto parts stores. Even a number of the hoses I bought had to be trimmed to fit. If you can by hoses by the foot, that is the route to go for all of the straighter runs.

I like the location, does it interfere with the passengers elbow?

The rotor should spin. I have never had this happen, but my understanding is the bearings going bad will cause slop in the distributor and your timing will fluctuate all over, causing differing symptoms.

Backfiring is caused when the fuel ignites while the intake valve is still open. Your timing is probably way off. Don't know why it would go off suddenly like that, unless the distributor failed mechanically.

He is referring to the whole distributor. The bearings go bad and cause weird drivability problems.

The video is private. I think you need to post it as a link instead of an embedded video for a YouTube private video to work. Or make the video public.

Sounds like a bad connection, either loose bulb or loose harness connection.

Took it for a drive. Alignment is still off, but no more jerking in the steering wheel. So I either have a bent rim or bad tire.

#5 Injector not working? Short term there shouldn't be any issues. Long term, if your not burning the fuel, then you can have cat issues, or fuel getting past the rings. Unless of course the injector is not working. I would try to limit it to only necessary travel until it is fixed.

It's not on my 92.

What does it do when engine braking?

I think if it was the driveshaft you would experience the symptoms all the time, and it would be worse when the angle increases, like going over bumps or flexing. You should be able to find a spec for max drive line angle and measure yours to see if it is in spec. To me, the fact it does it continually while the clutch is in, makes me think throw out bearing. However, it is odd for the throw out to do it when the clutch is out and you are decelerating, in my experience.

Rotated tires to see if the wobble in the steering moves. Then I will know if it is a bent rim or bad tire. Sealed the windshield again, hopefully it fixed the leak. Checked the frame for rust, it looks nearly new.

It was a friend's truck. Late sixties Chevy, 327 and three on the tree. He was pretty lazy so the brakes could have been out of adjustment, I don't think they had the auto adjusters back then. I agree, not enough of a difference to mess with changing on a rear axle.

Ball joints or loose strut.