Citron

Agreed. Probably a bad bulb. This is the early 90's pathy right? The instrument cluster is fairly easy to remove. Then you should be able to replace the bulb.

Awesome. Yeah, the air gap distance is critical on speed sensors. I am glad you found the problem.

You don't have to pull the seat. You can lay on the back floorboard and pull codes. Pulling the seat makes it easier though. If the leak is before the O2 sensor, then it could affect performance.

I have always been told that you do not want to go past the range on a torque wrench.

Octane is a rating of how easily the fuel ignites. Gas has the same energy rating, BTU, per gallon no matter the octane rating. Lower the octane, easier it ignites. If you have high compression, the act of compressing the gas heats it. Low octane in this situation can pre-ignite. It would be similar to running out of time. So the only performance gain would be preventing pre-ignition, but higher octane does not have more energy. A bad case of pre-ignition is spark knock. If you have lower compression, then running high-octane fuel is pointless since you would not have pre-ignition with low octane and there is no energy difference. Octane booster is only needed for super high compression race engines, it is BS marketing saying it will improve performance in your mercury villager, it only makes the fuel harder to ignite. Save money and run the lowest octane fuel that doesn't pre-ignite. If you want more performance, run non-ethanol fuel. Ethanol has a lower BTU rating so it does affect performance.

It was throughout the range. I personally have never seen a speed sensor, on vehicles or other things, that only acted up at the higher end of the range. Sounds like Mcfalconpunch has experienced it, so that may be a good place to start.

Since part of the tab is still there, can you drill it out and through bolt it?

Digital, ( Hall effect) has a wire with a reference voltage. You could test the wires and see if one has voltage, that would tell you if it is digital or not. If it has three wires, definitely digital, but not all digital have three wires. In my experience, when they malfunction, it is across the board, not just high speeds. This makes me think something else is going on. Is the air gap between the sensor and tone ring correct. There should be a spec for that in the FSM. I have seen flakey rpm signals on hydroelectric generators due to improper air gap. Bad or loose wheel bearings can cause faulty signals, since the tone ring is not rotating in the correct plane. That may change as speed increases. Bad connections can cause problems, but I don't see why that would change with speed. Hope this helps.

Red Green? He would have used duct tape.

I thought you meant the screwdriver technique like on a diesel. Puncture the filter to let the oil drain out, since there is about a quart in there. That way when you tilt the filter to pull it out, oil doesn't spill everywhere.

Solid advice above. You do not want to run with tires of different diameters.

You could go the muscle car route. Keep the rake on it and put some smaller tires on the front, big meats on the back. I bet you would get some looks.

Good point. I was thinking more mechanical, ABS didn't cross my mind.

You should get a mechanics stethoscope. Listen to the noise outside with the hood up. Either throttle it up yourself with the throttle body, or have someone inside rev it up. It will be much easier to narrow down where the noise is coming from, things can sound odd inside the cab. Once you narrow down the area, use the stethoscope to pinpoint the exact spot. I am leaning towards a pulley as well.

You already have the bigger tires mounted on the rear? If this is a 4wd, that is a bad idea. Do not engage 4wd with different size tires on. If I misread your post, then ignore this.

Oh duh. For some reason I was thinking you were saying 1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs 10 IN-lbs = 1 N-m Hence my comment.

Lol! That was funny. He miss quoted Red Green though.

Are you sure on this bit? Looks contradictory.

I like the agent Orange.

I bought mine from JC Whitney. They have a decent selection. AKA bulb seal.

My rear hatch window was leaking too. I bought a generic bulb gasket and installed it around the hatch window, and no more puddle in the back. It was dripping down on each side by both rear window defroster connections. I will let you know if the windshield gasket fixes the leak. It may take awhile to get it to town. It is a 40 minute drive to get to town, and the pathy is off road only, I have a different daily driver. Plus I live onsite in company housing, so I drive very little. I may not get to it for awhile.

While I was out driving, I noticed some dripping from trim across the top of the windshield and drips from the dash right below the left vent and above the dash dimmer. When I got back, I pulled the door panel anyway and checked the door drains, they are open and flowing. It looks like it is the windshield that is leaking. I pulled the trim off around the front left corner of the headliner and the trim off of the driver A pillar. I could trace the moisture down the trim across the top of the windshield and down the windshield gasket along the A pillar. I think what was happening was some of the water was running down the a pillar and getting in the dash. Then it was dripping out of the dash below the vent and falling into the door pocket. Then running out of the door pocket and onto the floor. There was also water running directly behind the dash, and some dripping straight down from the trim at the top of the windshield. Looks like I will need to get insurance on the pathy so I can drive to town and get the windshield resealed.

I think they were about 1/8th inch. They are fibrous with some sort of metallic silvery coating. If I remember, the OEM gasket was a stack of thin metal pieces, right? If so, the felpro is thicker.

I went out today to warm up the pathy to go for a spin. There was about an inch of water under the driver's feet. Luckily I have no carpet on the floor, all bedliner. The carpet on the bottom of the door panel was wet, and that seemed to be how the water got onto the floor. Judging by appearance, I believe that the seals around the driver window are shot. They are shrunk and no longer staying in place. We got 5" of rain the other day, so I imagine my door is full of water until it overflowed onto the floor. Is there a good source of new seals?

Mmm donuts. I have never heard of anyone using sealent on exhaust. The worst that would happen is it would burn off and you would need to take it apart and put a new gasket in. Mine was leaking in the same spot. My flanges were not as bad as yours, but close. I used a felpro gasket from either Amazon or Napa, and it sealed the leak. Try the gasket, if it doesn't work, then try adding sealent. If that doesn't work then it may be time for new exhaust. Question, my exhaust lays on the crossmembers all the way back. All of the hangers are there and the rubber isolaters are all installed. Parts of the exhaust look somewhat new. Is this how Nissan designed the exhaust, to lay on the crossmembers, or did someone do a crappy job of replacing the pipes? It seems very weird and wrong to me to see the exhaust routed like that. Is yours the same way?