Citron

Does 93 have cel on the dash? What year did they add that?

You clean it for the same reason you clean any sealing surface, to ensure a good seal. There should be no reason a head gasket surface is dirty, but I still clean it. I also spray off anywhere the oil dripped, like cross members, with brake cleaner, and starters with contact cleaner. It's a habit I got in to prevent cars from coming back. Otherwise people complain that it leaks after you worked on it, when it's really the fluid dripping off of things. I do the same with all the fluids.

No worries then.

Having metal particles on the magnet isn't unusual. It doesn't look excessive to me. The only concerning part is that large wire looking piece. Usually, it is just fine particles like all of the rest. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it though.

I was just catching up on this thread and was going to add the bit about timing when the engine is warm and idles down. If the six plug boot was leaking spark, that cylinder would miss. I think you would notice the miss.

Could we get some pics with the tire swung out and the hilift and Jerry can off?

There is a sticky in the photos and videos section that tells you how to attach pics. You need Photobucket, imgur, something like that.

No stupid questions. Everyone has to learn somehow, and what better way then asking questions.

I do pretty much the same thing.

Just for clarification, on the picture of the bearing, the inner smooth part is called the inner race, the picture of the race is the outer race. The rollers are the bearing, and the part that holds the bearings is the bearing cage. The outer race is the one that you drive in. Do not hammer on the inner race! The races are tapered, so pay attention to the orientation of the outer race when you remove it and put the new outer race in the same orientation.

PO171 I believe is the code for a lean condition. Since you already replaced the MAF, the next thing would be to look for vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF. Ethanol is the devil.

+1 on using the old race to install the new one. Removes the chance of nicking the new race with a punch. I preload my bearings a little differently than towndawg, but his way seems more reliable for someone that has never done bearings before. After you do a lot of them you can spin the rotor and feel for the proper preload. LittleFR is right. My bearings were loose on the pathfinder, I pulled them and they were in fine shape, so repacked them with grease, and reinstalled with the proper preload, and no problems now. After cleaning all the old grease out of the bearing, hold the inner race still and spin the bearing. If it feels gritty or doesn't spin smoothly, then replace it. Otherwise, pack it with grease and reuse. After you replaced the pads you noticed a leak on the master cylinder. The piston in the brake caliper has to be compressed when new pads are installed for the caliper to fit back over the rotor. When you compress the piston, it forces the fluid out and back into the master cylinder reservoir. Doing both sides can force enough fluid back that some spills out around the lid of the master cylinder reservoir. Then when you press the brake, fluid goes back to the caliper. This could account for both the leak, and the low fluid level. Sorry if you already knew all this, I just want to prevent you replacing parts that are still good.

Makes sense. I have heard of oil additives to clean out gunk buildup, but I have never used any.

Try a bearing and drive shop. I have had good luck with McGuire bearing in Tacoma. Alaska Bearing and Drive is good in Anchorage. Those are the only two I have experience with.

Why change the oil so often?

I never would have expected that. Thanks for the update, it is nice knowing how an issue was fixed.

Wow, another stolen wd21. I have nothing else to add.

First, where can you legally go 80-90 mph? Whatever the recommended tire pressure is on the sticker on the door jamb would be good. I would give it a thorough once over. Preform a lube oil filter service. Check all the fluids. If you aren't comfortable doing that, then take it to a reputable mechanic and ask them to do an inspection. It should make it no problem. And if you do have problems, it's not like you are in the middle of nowhere on the east coast. As for mileage, if you haven't done a tune up in the last 50000 miles, doing one wouldn't hurt.

I think its great. I think the speed is fine, I would probably edit out most of the on pavement part, just personal opinion. I look forward to seeing more of your exploration.

Moog is a decent brand. Even the cheapest auto parts store links you can find should last longer than that. +1 on checking the sway bar bushings. Also, have you done any suspension mods that may be contributing to the issue? Are you drifting around all the corners? 😀

All I can suggest is looking at the wiring diagram to see everything that is off of that fuse. Since you are blowing fuses, you probably have a direct short to ground on the power wire. If your voltmeter does ohms, I would pull the fuse. Then disconnect the connector at the device (twilight, switch etc.) put the meter on ohms, and one lead on the power wire to the device, and touch the other lead to a good ground. If any of the power wires test low ohms to ground, then that is the faulty one. Trace it out to find the short. Also you can inspect the wiring harness going back to the taillights and look for any damage. If you have a trailer light connector, that would be a good place to start.

Cool. Yeah, 18nm isn't much more than finger tight. Often, all you need to do is compress a gasket or oring to keep something from leaking. People have the tendency to over torque things, and then deform the gasket or oring and the item leaks so they torque more. I am glad you got it going though.

You can convert NM to ft-lbs with Google. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Generally, I only torque critical things, like head bolts, rockers, pinion nuts etc. Valve covers, oil pans, alternators, exhaust bolts, I just make tight while being mindful of the size of the bolt, what material it is threading in and the purpose of it.

I have seen tranny jack attachments for floor jacks. That being said, I usually use a plain floor jack and cross my fingers because I am too cheap to buy a good tranny jack. I have never tried this on a 4wd though, just 2wd Chevies and AWD Subaru. Last time I did a tranny on a 4wd I was working at a dealer, so had a lift and proper tranny jack.

A tranny jack should have spots on them to hook up chains. You chain the tranny to the jack before completely removing it to prevent the tranny from falling. Luckily for you, your knee was there to keep the tranny from getting hurt.