Citron

Where is this pic?

I had heard Elbe was pretty intense. Looks like a bit of water. I wonder how it is in summer?

Diffs need extended breathers. I think arb makes some, I haven't tried any on the pathfinders.

I have done lots in the last few days. Timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets, all new coolant hoses, all but one vaccum hose, cam and crank oil seals, cleaned throttle body... I think that is about it. Nope, new accessory belts. Oh, and sealed the leak on the windshield...

Citron

All of the wear is on the crank. The new key I used is oversized, I filed it to fit so it is nice and tight. Good to hear others have had similar issues, hopefully they didn't have problems in the long run.

He means the whole axle assembly, including housing. You could replace the seals if they are leaking, or you want to.

I was having a heck of a time putting the crank seal in. I couldn't get the lip of the seal to go on the shaft without bulging out. After messing with it for awhile I found an easy way to do this. I cut a peice of .05 shim stock and rolled it inside of the seal. Then I slid the back end of the shim over the shaft, and slid the seal down the shim. Once the seal was seated, I pulled the shim out. Very easy and I will definitely do this next time. Now for the question. When I pulled the timing gear on the crank off, the woodruff key was nearly broken and the slot it seats in was wallowed out. This explains the timing issues I have been having. I took an SAE woodruff key and filed it down to fit pretty tight, but there is still very slight rotational movement of the gear. Is there any movement on a gear without damage? Has anyone had this problem, and is there an easy fix?

I was able to do #6 with a 6" extension without a wobbly. I never could get the compression tester to thread in though.

Ohh yeah, forgot about that. Sometimes with blown head gaskets you will get oil migrating into your coolant, so also look for an oily sheen and discoloration in the coolant.

If the head gasket is blown, just replace the gasket. It's a pretty involved job, but not too hard.

You can't visually, it is an internal leak. Do a leak down test to check.

Not to my knowledge. The SE trim package came with LSD and disk brakes so you should be able to get everything you need easily.

I am not quite sure of all the ins and outs of these systems, but they do have a receiver on the vehicle to pick up the signal from the transceiver. Since it is happening to both fobs, the common denominator is the receiver. I have heard of people having issues with loose antennas on the receiver, which causes reduced fob range.

White sweet smelling smoke is associated with coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. This is usually from a leaky head gasket or cracked head.

When I get mine back together I will take a pic for you, if someone else hasn't.

Do you cycle at all? Welcome!

Yes they have floating grounds. Anything that is not grounded to earth is considered a floating ground.

LSD has clutch packs inside. Power can be supplied to both tires, but when you turn, the clutch packs allow slippage so the outer tire can turn faster than the inner. Open means only one tire ever gets power. There should be a orange sticker on the diff that says LSD if it is one.

Just a thought, did you clean the inside of the terminals for the battery? Depending on how the cable looks, you may need to cut off an inch or two of the cables and put new terminals on.

I use YouTube.

Possibly a faulty knock sensor? I have never had one fail so I don't know the symptoms, but something to look into.

Read post 9 and 10 on the link you provided. Power is not bleeding back through the led, this is impossible because an led is a diode. Those two post explain what is happening.

It sounds like the actuator. Ohm it and see if it is in spec.

Could have been an oil pressure issue. I had a Hyundai Elantra for a commuter car a few years ago and whenever the oil would get low the lifters would tap. Check your oil level.