Citron

As Pathy said, the timing marks may be 180 degrees out, which is why you are not seeing them. I put my distributor back in the wrong spot and the timing was 90 degrees out, it ran like crap and took me a minute to figure out what had happened to the marks.

Can you monitor if the fans are on or off while driving? I imagine it is the hot air being trapped under the hood, and driving would help that. Take an infrared temp gun and check the temp next to the fan controller probe with the hood open and closed.

What do you guys use to check your caster and camber? I was looking at this, http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=2446&prodid=7218&pagetitle=Caster+%2f+Camber+Gauge+w%2f+Magnetic+Adapter Anyone have experience with it? Other suggestions?

Awesome! Good news. It is always nice to find the problem, and thanks for updating the thread with the solution.

Yeah, some of the odd ball molded hoses are hard to find. One section of vaccum line on mine had to be replaced with heater hose since I don't have easy access to auto parts stores. Even a number of the hoses I bought had to be trimmed to fit. If you can by hoses by the foot, that is the route to go for all of the straighter runs.

I like the location, does it interfere with the passengers elbow?

The rotor should spin. I have never had this happen, but my understanding is the bearings going bad will cause slop in the distributor and your timing will fluctuate all over, causing differing symptoms.

Backfiring is caused when the fuel ignites while the intake valve is still open. Your timing is probably way off. Don't know why it would go off suddenly like that, unless the distributor failed mechanically.

He is referring to the whole distributor. The bearings go bad and cause weird drivability problems.

Sounds like a bad connection, either loose bulb or loose harness connection.

Took it for a drive. Alignment is still off, but no more jerking in the steering wheel. So I either have a bent rim or bad tire.

#5 Injector not working? Short term there shouldn't be any issues. Long term, if your not burning the fuel, then you can have cat issues, or fuel getting past the rings. Unless of course the injector is not working. I would try to limit it to only necessary travel until it is fixed.

It's not on my 92.

What does it do when engine braking?

I think if it was the driveshaft you would experience the symptoms all the time, and it would be worse when the angle increases, like going over bumps or flexing. You should be able to find a spec for max drive line angle and measure yours to see if it is in spec. To me, the fact it does it continually while the clutch is in, makes me think throw out bearing. However, it is odd for the throw out to do it when the clutch is out and you are decelerating, in my experience.

Rotated tires to see if the wobble in the steering moves. Then I will know if it is a bent rim or bad tire. Sealed the windshield again, hopefully it fixed the leak. Checked the frame for rust, it looks nearly new.

It was a friend's truck. Late sixties Chevy, 327 and three on the tree. He was pretty lazy so the brakes could have been out of adjustment, I don't think they had the auto adjusters back then. I agree, not enough of a difference to mess with changing on a rear axle.

Ball joints or loose strut.

It's really only under tension when the body rolls. The bolts are usually stuck, so a wrench on one side and impact on the other usually does the job. It may pop up a little, but not much. If you have trouble pushing it back down, use a pry bar. Edit: I guess I should have read the whole thread. I assumed you were just asking about changing the sway bar links.

On the vg30 that hose doesn't go into the intake, it runs under the intake. It changes to the metal pipe, which is attached to the underside of the upper intake, and runs toward the front of the engine. It ties in to the vent on the other valve cover and to the PCV valve on the intake. Are you sure that is not what it is doing? You may need a mirror to see what is going on back there.

Thanks for the clarification.

Put the new ones in so the same number of threads are sticking out as the old ones. Mark the old ones before removing them with paint pen, transfer the marks to the new one and thread it in. Then check toe to verify. http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html The link tells you how to check toe, and is way easier then me typing it out on my phone.

They only stop better when dry and cool. Drums grab when they get wet, like when wheeling, and heat much faster under load, like coming off of a steep hill. If you have ever driving a four wheel drum vehicle in the rain you would know why disk are superior. Drums on the rear aren't too big of a deal since only 30-40 percent of the stopping force is back there, and every time one grabs it doesn't try to rip the wheel out of your hand.

I think if your seals or rings were bad you would be burning oil and see it in the exhaust. Have you done a compression test? If the rings were bad you would have low compression.

I wonder why those guys were "upgrading" to a manual hardbody steering box? I thought the power box must be really weak or something. I am glad you guys set me straight, saved a lot of hassle.