Citron

Snorkel time?

My bet would be a weak alternator or bad ground. When a high load, like ac clutch, kicks on, is that when the lights flicker? You can take the battery and alternator into most auto parts stores, and they should be able to load test them. That will tell you right away which one is bad.

When the vehicle is running, it is the alternator that supports the electronics. If the battery is good enough to start the car, then that's not the problem. Starting is the heaviest load the battery sees, so that is when you will notice a bad battery. Injectors don't take enough amps to be affected by a marginal battery.

Flooded as in fuel, or water?

You would need to keep the cat and 02 sensors. The engine uses the O2 to help adjust fuel trim. EGR can go away, it is emissions only, and dumps exhaust gas back into your intake. Sure there is a little unburned fuel in there, but there is a lot more soot and things that are not good for the engine or performance. PCV needs to stay in some form. Going to the intake is strictly to prevent the vapors from going to atmosphere, and is environmental only. However, putting oil vapor in your intake isn't great, oil doesn't burn as easily as gas, and look inside your intake sometime. Between the oil vapor and exhaust gases, the intake of 90's cars are filthy. You need PCV but can vent to atmosphere. You would need to come up with some way to put PCV valves in the top of each valve cover. EVAP system captures the fumes from the gas tank. It is as unnecessary as those silly gas cans we have to use now, but it doesn't hurt anything on the engine or performance, so might as well leave it. I think I covered everything. The only one that should throw a code is egr.

That's a trick I learned a long time ago. Every project needs a new tool. My wife is on to me now, but luckily she laughs about it.

If it is only a head gasket, that isn't that big of a deal. Head gaskets are pretty simple. Cracked head, that's a different story. Unless it has been abused, it is probably only a gasket.

I feel so lucky. I have seen no rust on mine, body or frame. I even pulled all the carpet and rolled in bed liner and never found more than surface rust under the driver's feet.

Coast of?

The closest auto parts store for me is about an hour away, so I order most things and make UPS do the driving.

My manual shows it by the hood release on the hardbody, but in the back on the pathfinders.

On the 92 the ASCD is located behind the left driver panel in the cargo bay, above the wheel well. The fuse should be in the fuse block under the dash by the driver's left knee. I would think the 95 would be the same.

I never torque them I tighten the nut while spinning the hub. When it stops spinning then I back it off until it is loose again, then tighten down while spinning the hub again until the resistance feels right. What you are doing in both cases, my way and FSM way, is seating the bearing at first. Then you back off and tighten again to set the bearing preload. If the preload is too loose, there will be slop in the hub and you will eventually toast the bearing. If too tight, there will be too much friction and toast the bearing. Try the way the FSM says, while spinning the hub, and see if there is slop in the tire when you shake it up and down. If so, take it back apart and tighten more.

How long ago did you send the email? Worse case, you could ask them to cancel the order and issue a refund. If they won't, then you can dispute the charges with your bank, or PayPal or however you paid. IMO, give them a few business days to respond to your email. You could also try calling. The dispute route can be tedious, so that is a last resort.

Copper anti-seize to be more specific. It is for high heat application. The aluminum based not so much.

Uniden Pro520xl. Haven't tried it yet, still need to tune the antenna.

It was actually the other day, but I changed the gear oil in the transmission and t-case and installed a cb setup.

I see what he was saying. I thought he was suggesting finding tdc with the marks on the cam. Both of mine were about 5 degrees off, opposite directions, from the marks on the back plate. Not close enough for me. But, that is plenty close enough for determining if it is tdc compression or exhaust. My mistake.

I would not do this. The marks on the cam sprockets were not close to lining up with the marks on the back plate on my engine with 1 at tdc. IMO the best bet is pull #1 plug and find tdc. Not a big deal, adds maybe 30 seconds to the job to pull 1 plug.

Yeah, I am reading through Steevo's post on rugged rocks. He gives some solid measurements. Someone suggested checking that out last week, but I was sick when I posted the question and my brain wasn't functioning. Totally forgot until today. I am probably over thinking this, I am a bit of a perfectionist, drives my wife nuts. Especially when I was remodeling houses or building furniture, she wanted it done and I wanted it perfect. Your probably right, an estimate would be close enough.

One of the cams is in a neutral position and it is easy to hold, the other is under tension, and will easily move about twenty degrees if you move it. If this happens, just move it back to its mark. As stated, don't spin the cam around though. Remove with an impact. I found the easiest way to hold the cam sprocket to torque it was with a strap wrench, the kind with a rubber strap, not nylon. I tried the screwdriver technique, but didn't​ find anything suitable to hold against. You could also fab a tool out of some flat bar, with two legs to go into the holes of the sprocket. That is pretty much what a cam holding tool is. Something like the link, super easy to make. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w89208?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-performance-tool&gclid=Cj0KEQjw5YfHBRDzjNnioYq3_swBEiQArj4pdO5ajY5dgci4GGWo5Ryz1yo5-xMSIfdbS_9MIfsS9McaAveu8P8HAQ On the crank pulley, I removed two of the m8 bolts that hold the pulley together, and installed bolts through a puller. I can't remember what style puller, I tried a few different ones before I found one that worked. I felt I might damage something trying to pull the pulley from behind.

I did a similar setup with two six inch flood lights, but I mounted mine under the in bumper lights.

I couldn't find anything. It is not something manufacturers publish. I found some for hot rods, Camaros and such, bit nothing for a pathy.

Has anyone, or does anyone have the ability to, measure the center of gravity height for a stock wd21? The calculator for the 3 link for a SAS ask for this number, and I would rather have the exact number instead of estimating based on centerline of the engine. http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=42586 There is a how to, but I don't have access to anyway to measure the weight while the car is jacked up. Also, from what I have read, putting blocks in place of the shocks is unnecessary for our purposes.

I don't see an issue with firing it up for a few, as long as you get some oil pumped through as Adamzan suggested above. As far as the parts, have you checked Rockauto? There is post in the vendor section with discount codes. Might be a better option than eBay.