Citron

One of the guys here was having intermittent starting issues on a 3/4 ton Dodge. Him and I looked at it and found that it was a bad connection on the battery. He had sprayed terminal protection on it. Then he took the cables off to do some work, and when he put them back on they were in a different order. So the wire that had protection on top was now in the middle. The protection is a non conductive film, so the truck wouldn't start. You may have something similar. Even if the connection is tight, there may be something on there preventing a good electrical path.

Yes, the only time you should see voltage swings is if the voltage regulator in the alternator was flakey. But usually they just die. Or if you have belt slippage so the alternator is not turning at rated speed. So at 700 RPM idle the alternator is only spinning at 300, which may not be fast enough to get up to voltage. Take the rpms to 2000, alternator is now spinning at 1000 so you are seeing it work at higher rpm, but it doesn't seem to work at lower rpm. I have seen this happen once, but there should be squealing, or massive belt glazing going on if this is happening.

Any update? Time, meeting location? I need a discovery pass for this place right? Also, is this group kid friendly, I would like to bring my 8 year old son.

My thoughts exactly Slartibartfast.

Reliability is my main concern with an efan. I live and wheel in a remote area, for the lower 48, so if I break down, it's not like I am on a trail in an ORV park that people frequent. Most trails I am on haven't been driven on in years, so it would be a long walk out. I am going to think about it some more, but I am leaning towards going back to stock.

Do you have a shroud? I will look into the digital Dakota.

Just a suggestion. Use when you can, don't when you can't.

On rubber hoses if they are stuck on it helps to put something, like a tiny flat blade screwdriver, in there and run it around to break the seal between the hose and whatever it is clamped on. Vaccum lines, coolant hoses, works on all of them and is a lot easier on the hose than putting pliers on the outside and trying to twist it.

Great idea with the fogger.

To answer the OP, 105 load index is just over 2000 #s. Should be plenty.

The PO ditched the shroud and installed an efan on my 92. He wired it off of the accesory position on the ignition. I switched it to the run position so I could listen to the radio without the fan on. I have been thinking about getting a fan controller so the fan doesn't run all the time. However, I have been following the other post where the member is having issues getting his efan to shut off. A member made a good point on there about limping out with a failed alternator and the efan sucking battery capacity. So, you people that have made the switch, is there a big, noticeable power advantage to the efan? Is it worth it? If not, I am thinking about getting a shroud from a junkyard and putting a new fan/clutch on and ditching the efan. Although shroudless efan does make it very easy to work on the front of the engine.

Check out Blaupunkt. They make quality understated radios. Hard to find in the States, but they aren't flashy and ugly like all the other brands. Good German brand.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35 106 is another form of load index. Service description is the load index plus speed rating, so like the 106T on your tires.The E1 is also a load rating of some sort, but the 106 equates directly to pounds, around 2000.

Price really depends on your location. For Washington, I would try to get them down to $1500-$1600. It seems hard to find one around here that runs and drives for less than $1000. Edit: Mine is nearly perfect cosmetically( except for soiled carpet), solid mechanically, but it has 250,000 on it. It's a 92 and I paid 1250, they were asking 1500. With your windshield and body damage 1200-1300.

R means radial construction not speed rating, 123 is the load rating and Q is the speed rating. The E can also be a load rating, depending on purpose of tire. Usually you will see one or the other, but not both.

Your alternator is working or else you wouldn't have seen 13.5 volts. However, you should still see above battery voltage at idle. I would start by making sure the connections on the battery and back of the alternator are tight and clean. Check the belt and make sure it is tight so there is no slipping. Pop the top on the battery and check water level. Batteries generally only have a 5 to 7 year life span.

Very cool.

Can you watch the vvt output live?

I am looking for a good yard in my area (Olympic Peninsula). The local Nissan dealer recommended Felton's, they specialize in Nissan/infinity, but they are in Snohomish. That is more in your neck of the woods. I heard good things about B and R in Chehalis, but they changed hands a few years ago so I don't know how they are now. Edit: forgot to add the link. http://feltonautoparts.com

Update. I called around and to pay a glass place to fix the leak was too much. So I decided to do it myself. I bought some of this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0 Lifted the trim across the top outside of the windshield enough to get the tube tip in and squirted half the tube in from the middle to the driver edge. Leak slowed down. Squirted the other half tube in from the driver edge to the middle. No more leak.

That explains it, I don't do Chevys. I worked at a Ford dealer, and the various Japanese vehicles I have owned. Oddly enough, I have only had to pull starters on a Toyota and fords.

As someone said above, more than likely there is just corrosion/carbon buildup preventing the Bendix from moving. I took a starter and selenoid apart and cleaned it on a 92 Toyota 22re pickup that was doing the same thing. Starter lasted another 1.5 years then I sold the truck. I have never heard of/seen shims used on an automotive starter.

If you have a vaccum pump you can test the egr with that. I believe they are vaccum operated on those years.

Be careful, most of the box audio stores, best buy, car toys, etc are worthless. Look at the hiring ads for them sometime, they require no experience or skill to hire. They pay people $12 an hour, give them a few pages of instructions and turn them loose on people's cars. I have had to repair lots of connections these places made because they don't know proper automotive wiring. Look for a reputable independent auto customization shop. It will probably cost more, but you will get a better product.

Engine hesitates, like push the gas and it takes a second for the engine to respond, or the transmission hesitates when shifting, so the engine is at good rpm, but the shift is slow or delayed?