Citron

Point taken. Thanks for the discussion. I tread lightly on forums, I have seen so many discussions blow up very rapidly into vicious arguments on many forums. That is why this is the only forum I frequent anymore, the people here are much more kind and mature.

Including the wd22 would be similar to including the qx4, at least it seems that way to me. I mainly ask because the wd21 and 22 are so similar, where the wd21 and r50 are very different. Not trying to start any sort of argument though, I ask for purely selfish reasons, as my wife is thinking about getting rid of the Subaru and getting an Xterra.

Just curious why the WD 22 isn't included in the forum. Seems like it is the natural successor to the WD 21. If this has already been asked, then forgive me, I didn't see it.

Can you still buy the service manuals? I like having a book to flip through, instead of printing it and binding the pages myself.

Wow DJ, very sturdy rack. I guess that's proven by how many people were on it.

Looking good.

There is a switch somewhere, probably around the latch, that could be the issue. Might be a loose connection, bent mount, or sticky switch. Start with that, it is what sends the signal if the door is open or closed. Sorry I can't tell you where the switch is located, I don't have that new of a pathfinder to look. Edit: From experience with other vehicles, it will probably be on the door itself, not the body.

No code. At least on the pre OBDII vehicles. The research I did before deleting mine, most people said deleting gave you a little better milage and power. It does idle better and maybe a little more snap, but that could be because I was expecting it.

Does your area require emission test? If not, just delete the egr pipe and valve.

Might be a good project for your son to fix up. Then when he has sweat invested in it, he will probably be much more appreciative of the vehicle. Cost of shipping it, it would probably make more sense to sell it and buy another fixer upper for your son though. It would be hard to part it out living so far away, even though I would like to have some of the parts.

You could also do something like linex. Do the bottom 6" of sheet metal on both sides. Would be tough and fairly cheap. I wasn't saying have the shop paint it, just get the mixed paint from them and do it yourself. Should work well with a HVLP setup.

You can on newer vehicles. If you got the factory color from Nissan, it more than likely wouldn't match, since your vehicle is old enough that the paint has had some fading and weathering. I think the best option would be to go to a local reputable auto painter and have them match and mix the color. The painters that restore old cars can match the current faded paint. The amount of area you are doing would probably need to be clear coated as well to look unaltered.

If it were the brakes or the hub bearings, it would also do it in 2hi. Since it is only when the front drive components are spinning, then the problem is there.

Sounds like it is in the front drive system. Check CV axles, front drive line. I would bet something is binding, which would also explain the truck labouring.

Vibration only in 4hi, or also 2hi? Was vibration related to road speed, meaning it changed the faster you went, or was it more related to rpm? Not handling well, can you explain? Initial thought was ujoints on the front drivline, but answering the above questions will help narrow it down.

No one needs cats, smelly creatures.

I think it was $50 to have a locksmith rekey a cylinder for my Titan. It was a new cylinder that I took into him.

Whoops. http://forums.nicoclub.com/pcv-valve-replacement Try that link. Looks like you need to pull the intake on the 3.5.

I don't have access to a 3.3 to take a pic, but the below link should guide you to the PCV. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/pcv-valve-16909/

I recently put manual hubs off of a hardbody on my pathfinder. I noticed that the auto hubs sealed with an oring. There is no spot for an oring on the manual hubs. Is there supposed to be a gasket to seal it? The FSM does not show anything. I am thinking of cutting a gasket to keep the water out.

http://www.engine-codes.com/p1491_nissan.html The above link has good info on this code. There is also a link on the page to a service bulletin for that code and your year.

If you do not see or smell oil out of the exhaust, and no oil is mixing in with the antifreeze, it seems that the engine is not consuming oil. Since the entire underside is coated in oil, I would say you have a bad leak and that is where all of your oil is going. Do not throw parts at it hoping you get the right one. Verify it is bad first before replacing. Changing PCV, MAF, etc is a waste if they are still good.

Codes just point you in the right direction, but they do not take the place of proper diagnoses. If the code says O2 sensor, that is where the troubleshooting begins. You can't verify until you check the sensor to make sure it is functioning. Usually voltage, signal, ohms, and ground. Depending on what you find, then replace the sensor or continue troubleshooting. Doing it properly will prevent changing unnecessary components and save frustration and money.

The plug was easy. I couldn't get the compression tester threaded in.

Twist shouldn't be an issue. You are checking the fluid in park with the engine running right? The owners manual should have capacity specs. If not, download the service manual and that will tell you.