Citron

So it is definitely the windshield. Here is a video showing the drip. It's a lot easier to see the leak with the trim off. Now I just need to get it repaired.

Cleaned out the air duct by the fan resistors.

Cleaned out mine the other day. Quite a bit of stuff in there. How do you pull off the grills for the cabin air intake?

Did you have the rotors turned when you did pads? Sometimes there is a little lip on the outer edge of the rotor where the old pads did not contact.

Nevermind. See the year and model now.

What vehicle, year etc? Manual or auto tranny? Descibe the problem in more detail. Need more info to work with.

Ethanol is an alcohol made from grain, mostly corn. It has less BTU per gallon then gas, so that is why performance and gas mileage suffer when running ethanol blended fuel, especially E85. Also, since it is an alcohol, it can dry out and harden seals and gaskets causing them to fail sooner than normal. Most automakers have made the seals and gaskets in their newer vehicles resistant to this, but older vehicles and small engines, lawn mowers, chainsaws etc, can still suffer. We have it because some very powerful politicians from corn growing states wanted to find a new market for there constituents. It does burn a little cleaner than gas, but there is much debate on if it is actually better for the environment, considering the amount of diesel, chemical fertilizers, refining process etc that is used to produce it. That is probably more than anyone ever wanted to know about ethanol.

Sorry, it wasn't meant to be offensive, just informative. People get mislead by the octane booster marketing, so the post was more for the benefit of all, not aimed at any one person.

It should have a wire coming off of the switch for each position right? Cut the wire coming off for the auto position. All the rest should work. I imagine it has a voltage coming in, and the voltage leaves on whichever wire is associated with the selection you make. The controller would see voltage on a particular wire and shift the tcase appropriately. I am assuming this is how it works but I don't know. If this is how it works you should be able to cut the switch output wire for auto without any issue. I suppose it may be a grounding switch but cutting the wire would still work.

Mine is over satellite internet. I wonder what I would have scored over high speed internet.

Do you happen to have a link handy for that code checker? If not, no big deal, I can search for it.

Could you disconnect the wiring from the back of the switch for auto to prevent any mistakes?

At least it is fixed, and pretty inexpensive considering.

Agreed. Probably a bad bulb. This is the early 90's pathy right? The instrument cluster is fairly easy to remove. Then you should be able to replace the bulb.

Awesome. Yeah, the air gap distance is critical on speed sensors. I am glad you found the problem.

You don't have to pull the seat. You can lay on the back floorboard and pull codes. Pulling the seat makes it easier though. If the leak is before the O2 sensor, then it could affect performance.

I have always been told that you do not want to go past the range on a torque wrench.

Octane is a rating of how easily the fuel ignites. Gas has the same energy rating, BTU, per gallon no matter the octane rating. Lower the octane, easier it ignites. If you have high compression, the act of compressing the gas heats it. Low octane in this situation can pre-ignite. It would be similar to running out of time. So the only performance gain would be preventing pre-ignition, but higher octane does not have more energy. A bad case of pre-ignition is spark knock. If you have lower compression, then running high-octane fuel is pointless since you would not have pre-ignition with low octane and there is no energy difference. Octane booster is only needed for super high compression race engines, it is BS marketing saying it will improve performance in your mercury villager, it only makes the fuel harder to ignite. Save money and run the lowest octane fuel that doesn't pre-ignite. If you want more performance, run non-ethanol fuel. Ethanol has a lower BTU rating so it does affect performance.

It was throughout the range. I personally have never seen a speed sensor, on vehicles or other things, that only acted up at the higher end of the range. Sounds like Mcfalconpunch has experienced it, so that may be a good place to start.

Since part of the tab is still there, can you drill it out and through bolt it?

Digital, ( Hall effect) has a wire with a reference voltage. You could test the wires and see if one has voltage, that would tell you if it is digital or not. If it has three wires, definitely digital, but not all digital have three wires. In my experience, when they malfunction, it is across the board, not just high speeds. This makes me think something else is going on. Is the air gap between the sensor and tone ring correct. There should be a spec for that in the FSM. I have seen flakey rpm signals on hydroelectric generators due to improper air gap. Bad or loose wheel bearings can cause faulty signals, since the tone ring is not rotating in the correct plane. That may change as speed increases. Bad connections can cause problems, but I don't see why that would change with speed. Hope this helps.

Red Green? He would have used duct tape.

I thought you meant the screwdriver technique like on a diesel. Puncture the filter to let the oil drain out, since there is about a quart in there. That way when you tilt the filter to pull it out, oil doesn't spill everywhere.

Solid advice above. You do not want to run with tires of different diameters.

You could go the muscle car route. Keep the rake on it and put some smaller tires on the front, big meats on the back. I bet you would get some looks.