Citron

What's the elevation there? Nice pics.

There are still motor rebuild shops where you can get parts to rebuild starters and alternators. Usually cost as much as a new one.

Your right, it is m12 1.25. We need to run to town for shopping tomorrow so I will try to return the m10 stuff and get m12

Guy at Fastenal had a wd22. The bolts on his were m10 1.25. I assumed the wd21 would be the same and bought them. I will check after work.

I am in town right now and forgot to bring the bolt with me. Anyone know the size and pitch of the bolts that bolt the J hook to the frame on the front?

Bigger tires may need different gearing. Can't remember what size tires you have. Also, re-aim your headlights. That way they aren't shining so far down the road since your lift. And it will keep them from shining through the back window of the car in front of you and pissing people off. Should be a procedure in the fsm for properly aiming the headlights. It is usually something like park 20' feet from a wall and the beam should be so many feet off the ground.

I am getting mine from a local machine/Fab shop. They will sell it whatever size I need. Recently I bought a 3'x3' peice of 1/4" plate. They charge cost of material plus the amount of labor to cut it.

Trying to. We will see how it turns out.

Very slow progress on the bumper. Got the brackets test fit, going to need to slot the holes a bit. It is hard to get anywhere when you only have about an hour a night to work on it. Seems like most of that time is set up and tear down each night. Using the shop at work so can't leave it out during the day.

I went to public school. 1+2 is chicken.

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14573 That is the code for coolant temp sensor. See the above link.

There are 5 diag modes represented by the blinks. When you get to the mode you want, you turn the dial on the left all the way one way and then back the other way to enter that diag mode. I believe mode three is for engine codes. There is a write up somewhere on here for the exact procedure.

And you were at TDC on compression stroke on #1 cylinder when you set the cam timing?

If all you need is a signal, then yes, I would think you could.

Yes, when you turn the cams you are compressing the valve springs and that takes some force. However, don't turn the cams if the timing belt isn't on because the valves will contact the piston if the crank isn't moving. I guess I am having trouble following what exactly is going on. Please explain everything clearly. What condition is the engine in now? Is the timing belt on or off? Is anything apart? What procedure did you use to set the timing correctly?

When you say timing was not set correctly, do you mean ignition timing or cam timing? Have you checked compression? If the timing belt broke it is likely you have internal damage. Compression test would be a good place to start to check for valve issues.

The Mississippi mud one is the thread I was talking about, thought it was on this forum. Looking now, I see what you mean about the connections being pretty low. If you find a good spot, please do a write-up.

No your probably right. I think he was trying to determine which switch operated the brake lights though. But yes, he will probably need the output from the relay for the brake controller, I think. I have never installed one. Maybe all it needs is just the signal that the brakes are applied.

You could unplug one, press the brake and see if the lights come on. That would be an easy way to verify which one is for the brake lights. Or better yet, push the switch in by hand and see what happens.

There is a thread around here showing how someone mounted the ecu behind the glove box. If I remember correctly, they had to trim some of the panel that covers the ducting. They also had to heat and reshape a section of the inside of the glove box for clearance. It looked like it would be hard to read codes with it in this location, so doing the remote code switch/display mod at the same time would be a good idea. There is a thread on that too. I plan on doing these mods myself in the future. I am going to put it somewhere in the dash, having it on the dash doesn't seem very clean to me.

Got the bumper brackets cut out. First time using a plasma torch, so there was more grinder clean up then I had hoped. Will hopefully find the time to get the bolt holes drilled, a little welding, and get them mounted by Tuesday. Need to remember to take my phone with me to the metal shop to take pics.

I thought tinypic was owned by Photobucket?

I had a similar problem when I got mine. It would actually bog down to the point of stalling when climbing steep hills. Mine had a host of problems though. Timing was off, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks. Once everything was fixed it has plenty of power. Since yours is bogging, I would start looking at the engine. If it was revving up I would say it was tranny problems, torque converter or slipping bands.

Was the engine bogging down or was it free revving

The only thing that could cause 19 v and over charge the battery is the alternator, so I would agree with the intermittent fault.