Citron

Unless I am looking at it wrong, it looks like your distributor rotor is pointing at #4.

Did you bleed the air from the system after changing the radiator? Trapped air can cause weird symptoms including no hot air from heater core. Pull the dipstick and check for coolant in the oil. Also look on the underside of the oil fill cap for a whitish substance, also a sign of coolant in the oil. See if there is white smoke out of the tailpipe. All of that coolant has to be going somewhere, and since you aren't seeing it drip, it must be going into the engine. If it was a severe overheat, then it is possible that it warped a head. Should be able to verify/pinpoint that with a leak down test.

I have found that the bearing greasers waste a lot of grease. I much prefer hand packing, it's very quick and easy. I agree about repacking instead of replacing if the bearings Don't look or feel bad.

From what I have been reading the last few days, 8.8 is actually a little less than grade 5.

Can you swap #3 injector with #1 and see if the misfire moves with the suspect injector?

Might be time to leave it for tomorrow.

Must be pretty rare because they cost over $3 a bolt.

Which Park?

What's the elevation there? Nice pics.

There are still motor rebuild shops where you can get parts to rebuild starters and alternators. Usually cost as much as a new one.

Your right, it is m12 1.25. We need to run to town for shopping tomorrow so I will try to return the m10 stuff and get m12

Guy at Fastenal had a wd22. The bolts on his were m10 1.25. I assumed the wd21 would be the same and bought them. I will check after work.

I am in town right now and forgot to bring the bolt with me. Anyone know the size and pitch of the bolts that bolt the J hook to the frame on the front?

Bigger tires may need different gearing. Can't remember what size tires you have. Also, re-aim your headlights. That way they aren't shining so far down the road since your lift. And it will keep them from shining through the back window of the car in front of you and pissing people off. Should be a procedure in the fsm for properly aiming the headlights. It is usually something like park 20' feet from a wall and the beam should be so many feet off the ground.

I am getting mine from a local machine/Fab shop. They will sell it whatever size I need. Recently I bought a 3'x3' peice of 1/4" plate. They charge cost of material plus the amount of labor to cut it.

Trying to. We will see how it turns out.

Very slow progress on the bumper. Got the brackets test fit, going to need to slot the holes a bit. It is hard to get anywhere when you only have about an hour a night to work on it. Seems like most of that time is set up and tear down each night. Using the shop at work so can't leave it out during the day.

I went to public school. 1+2 is chicken.

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14573 That is the code for coolant temp sensor. See the above link.

There are 5 diag modes represented by the blinks. When you get to the mode you want, you turn the dial on the left all the way one way and then back the other way to enter that diag mode. I believe mode three is for engine codes. There is a write up somewhere on here for the exact procedure.

And you were at TDC on compression stroke on #1 cylinder when you set the cam timing?

If all you need is a signal, then yes, I would think you could.

Yes, when you turn the cams you are compressing the valve springs and that takes some force. However, don't turn the cams if the timing belt isn't on because the valves will contact the piston if the crank isn't moving. I guess I am having trouble following what exactly is going on. Please explain everything clearly. What condition is the engine in now? Is the timing belt on or off? Is anything apart? What procedure did you use to set the timing correctly?

When you say timing was not set correctly, do you mean ignition timing or cam timing? Have you checked compression? If the timing belt broke it is likely you have internal damage. Compression test would be a good place to start to check for valve issues.

The Mississippi mud one is the thread I was talking about, thought it was on this forum. Looking now, I see what you mean about the connections being pretty low. If you find a good spot, please do a write-up.