Citron

I had planned on using the left over material for my rear bumper too.

4'x4' 1/8" plate, 3'x4' 1/4" plate, 2"x1/4"x36" flat bar. I have about 40% of the 1/4" plate left and will have about 20% of the 1/8" plate once I make the center piece, for aesthetic reasons. I bought a lot extra in case I messed up, considering how far I live from a place to buy more. Picture of mount is forthcoming.

4wheelparts is overpriced on a lot of their stuff. When I was tire shopping same tires from them were going to cost about $500 more then we're I got them.

Ordered a new intake air duct. I checked the pull a part, both wd21 they had the duct was cracked. It doesn't look like mine is cracked all the way through, but there is a vacuum leak in the area that I can't find, so the only explanation is the cracks in the duct. Tried the carb cleaner spray with no success.

I have always believed in whole assing.

Sorry for not responding, for some reason this was not showing up on the new content button. This forum does funny things on mobile. With the 2" body lift I had to make it that high top to bottom to cover everything. If I had made it another inch or so it would have looked better and been right under the grill, but I didn't want the extra weight. I was mainly trying to cover the holes in the body. I will get that info and pic for you asap. Keep in mind that I haven't used it yet. The true test will come once I use it to pull myself out. I am sure it will be fine, but you never know.

ABS is quick, it pulses multiple times a second. If that is the case, and it only happens on extreme braking, then it may be the ABS functioning.

If it only does it when you apply the brakes, then the problem is with the brakes. Take them off and see what you can see.

When you say like on a bumpy road, you mean the whole car shakes or the pedal pulsates? If the pedal pulses when you gently apply the brakes then your rotors are warped. Could cause a shake too. Did the r50 have rear drums? In the old days when drum brakes got wet they would grab causing a shudder.

I used a universal bulb seal from J.C. Whitney to replace the seal around my rear glass. Just need to make sure all of the measurements are correct. You do need the one around the glass and not the one around the door right?

I thought the first gen x and wd21 had the same pump, just in a different spot.

The problem is with two letters, GM. That's all I've got.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42718-citrons-92/page-2?do=findComment&comment=792194 Pics in my build thread. I did mine all in my head and then mocked it up with cardboard. Center is all 1/4" plate, wings are 1/8". I estimate it weighs around 80 lbs. It is light enough to carry around and install by myself. I wanted as light as possible. Kind of modeled it after the ARB, but with the, IMO, unnecessary 1/2" plate across the top. This thing isn't a 1 ton dually. There are pics of the mounting points off a few different bumpers at the link below. I pretty much did the ARB mounting style in Precise1 pics. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37073-how-to-build-a-winch-bumper/page-1

Just finished my bumper, I am looking at the superwinch tigershark 9500. By the way, I have about $220, including paint, in my bumper. That doesn't count welding rod, wire, grinding wheels, etc. Just metal and paint.

Put final coat of paint on the bumper. Will install it tomorrow. Went to the jy and picked up a passenger blinker to replace the broken lens on mine. Got a driver marker light, gear shift knob that actually has numbers on it and the outer dash vent grills to replace my broken ones. All of it was from an 88 hardbody.

Like Fleury said, toe is at tie rods. If they are good then adjust them at the threaded rods.

Get rich quick schemes never work. 🤑

Do you know what years had the metal shroud? Is there any difference besides the metal shroud?

Since it is just a switch, I would expect the ohms to be really low, around 1. I don't think the OEM sensor ever gets that low. On another note, I was searching around for the threads you were talking about, I couldn't find any referencing using the stock sensor to run the fans, but I did find some talking about using the dual fans from the Maxima. That interest me because the PO put in a flexlite fan without a shroud, just zip tied to the radiator. I want to put on a shroud to improve and disperse cooling. Looks like I could get the Maxima fans from a jy for much less then a shroud for the flexlite. Do you have links to those threads about using the stock sensor?

No it a bad price.

Does the noise speed up with vehicle speed or with engine rpm?

I don't know where you would find the plastic pieces of the hub. The bearings are easy to find. I bought mine for about $20 per bearing.

The kits I am looking at have no controller, it is all relay logic. The temp sensor is just a switch that closes at x temp and opens at y to energize the coil of the relay that runs the fan. You can also energize the coil whenever the ac clutch is operating and put in a switch to manually turn off the coil for water crossings. What you are talking about tapping into is the sending unit that has a variable output, hence the need for the resistor, correct?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30115 I am looking at installing a kit something like above. Does anyone know of a spot I can thread in the temp sensor, or do I need one of these inline adapters, something like below. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmwhs-38-bk?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-mishimoto&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJez4hl2fdOEWJTML3swFwEo41dSLvcIicrXdahntJwxWCP9-UVTifHgaAjC6EALw_wcB Other ideas welcome, but I am trying to do this on a budget. The Dakota Digital kit would be neat but too expensive.

Looks nice.