Citron

No your probably right. I think he was trying to determine which switch operated the brake lights though. But yes, he will probably need the output from the relay for the brake controller, I think. I have never installed one. Maybe all it needs is just the signal that the brakes are applied.

You could unplug one, press the brake and see if the lights come on. That would be an easy way to verify which one is for the brake lights. Or better yet, push the switch in by hand and see what happens.

There is a thread around here showing how someone mounted the ecu behind the glove box. If I remember correctly, they had to trim some of the panel that covers the ducting. They also had to heat and reshape a section of the inside of the glove box for clearance. It looked like it would be hard to read codes with it in this location, so doing the remote code switch/display mod at the same time would be a good idea. There is a thread on that too. I plan on doing these mods myself in the future. I am going to put it somewhere in the dash, having it on the dash doesn't seem very clean to me.

Got the bumper brackets cut out. First time using a plasma torch, so there was more grinder clean up then I had hoped. Will hopefully find the time to get the bolt holes drilled, a little welding, and get them mounted by Tuesday. Need to remember to take my phone with me to the metal shop to take pics.

I had a similar problem when I got mine. It would actually bog down to the point of stalling when climbing steep hills. Mine had a host of problems though. Timing was off, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks. Once everything was fixed it has plenty of power. Since yours is bogging, I would start looking at the engine. If it was revving up I would say it was tranny problems, torque converter or slipping bands.

Was the engine bogging down or was it free revving

The only thing that could cause 19 v and over charge the battery is the alternator, so I would agree with the intermittent fault.

What they are talking about with the distributor is not just the cap. They are talking about the bearings on the shaft down below the rotor.

Usually, if you feel it in the steering wheel, then it's up front. Feel it in the seat, it's from the back. The fact that it does it from take off would make me agree with Hawairish, u-joint problem. If you have limited slip there is always the possibility of a shudder from the clutch packs. Then of course it could always be a bent rim or out of balance wheel, but those don't generally cause problems from a start, just at speed.

I am not on Facebook. I have refused to do social media. The closest I'll get is the forum.

Facebook is the 😈.

Filter should have caught anything and clogged before it got to the injectors.

If you have the plans, any machine/Fab shop with a good rep could do the work. They are usually around $100 an hour though.

Class 4 is more than the vehicle is rated to tow, heck class 3 is more than it's rated to tow.

Can you pull the valve cover and watch the valves opening?

Split the difference, go satin.

The cracked intake boot would be it, source of unmetered air, so basically a vacuum leak. Glad you found it.

Started mocking up my bumper.

Mr Elcocko had a similar sounding issue with surging under load and it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Check out his build thread for his quey for info. Might be worth looking into.

Ford said that a solder with shrink tube or a properly crimped connection with shrink tube were both approved repair methods. Personally, I always crimp, because it's quick and I can never find my solder gun when I need it. They used to make a crimp connection that would slide over a solder joint.

It may not have anything to do with your current issues, it may be contributing, or it may be the main cause. That's why I suggest getting it sorted out. Start with the things that are known issues first. If it does happen to be contributing, and it is ignored, then you will be chasing your tail trying to determine what is going on. If this were a rearend problem, then you could ignore the O2, but since the O2 directly affects how the engine runs, and your having problems with the engine, I wouldn't ignore it. How long was the O2 code set before you started having trouble?

You usually need to take those off to use the upper anchor point of a car seat. Then they are lost a few years later when you no longer need the car seat.

I would get the O2 sorted out. Since O2 is used for fuel trims, it will be hard to diagnose drivability problems with an active issue.

Is the TPS a potentiometer on these? If so, you could hook up a meter and verify if it is functioning through the whole range. The other thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. Do you have a way to monitor the fuel pressures? Did the code stay cleared?

Reving the engine in neutral uses a lot less fuel than taking it to the same rpm under load, so I wouldn't put much faith in that test. The rattling noise under load could be the exhaust leak. Unless it is more of a pinging noise, kind of like valve noise. If so, since it happens under load that could point to pre ignition. Higher ambient temps would also contribute to pre ignition and explain why it seems to be somewhat temp related. I would also verify the timing, since it hasn't be checked after changing the distributor.