Alkorahil

part 22060-30P00 SENSOR ASSY $138.91 ship about $8 depending on zip code.

When I pulled my cluster this past summer I had the smae thing. One of the harnesses was not in all the way though it felt like it was. I pushed some more and it popped in all the way and then everything worked on the cluster.

iAgree, there are many many of them out there I would also add that the first of the R51's are just now getting to an age that a bank/lender will not like to lend on them, the secondary market should start to come down on them becuase of this.

Both 87 and 89 with the VG30i default to the same part now: Part Number: 14812-12G12 Description: P-AIR CASE ASSY 134.07 each (list is $183.15)

I have seen this before on the D22U Frontier with the V6 when they have been allowed to rust away. I dont recall ever seeing it on an R50.

The seat belts from 1989 forward are covered as a liftime warranty. It is in the last section of your owners manual. It is such an old and rarely used warranty, some dealership service writers may not be familiar with it, or believe it. Stand your ground, show them the page from the owners manual if you have to or tell them to call their warranty administrator. It covers the seat belts wearing out or not functioning. However, it will not cover your dog eating the seat belt in half.

Check the battery terminals are making a good connection too and not corroded or loose. It takes the full power of battery to turn the starter over. If it doenst have a good connection it can not draw everything from the battery it needs while the low amp items such as the radio, dash lights, etc will work fine.

LKQ Craigslist Ebay Anylocal wrecking yard Craigslist and Ebay are less likely to offer any warranty, and of course ebay you have to factor in shipping. If you are real savvy, open to a little risk and have the storage space, you can buy one that has been wrecked on the side or rear, or has had the tranny go out on craigslist or the local Autotrader or similar magazine for $400-$800, take the engine out and whatever else you might want, and part the rest out, then sell the shell to a scrap yard for $50-$100 per ton and break even or make money. I see early 90's pathys all the time that have had the auto tranny crap out and people are selling for under $800. Which always gets my brain spinning.....

Yeah, do these tests as well, he brought up some good points!

It is not difficult if you have the correct tools. Getting them off is the hardest part, some will come out easy, some will want to be difficult. You will need a 14 or 15mm socket and wrench, a fork and a rubber mallet. I would recommend doing the tie rods at the same time and dont reuse any of the cotter pins, get new ones. You should also do a front end alignment afterwards. The OEM tie rods and center link come with new cotter pins and nuts.

^ Seconded. I would add, replace all at the same time as well to get more out of them. I hate it when people have all 4 with many many miles on them, or worse yet all 4 worn out and they replace only the front or rear, it just makes the new ones work harder and wear out faster.

Sorry to hear this, I agree with what others have already pointed out, you can pick up a good used one, often times with a warranty for under $500.

The knock sensor on the 3.3 and 3.5 R50 is in the same place as on the WD21. It is in on top of the engine in the valley in between the two heads. To get to it you have to remove the intake plenum and the EGR tube and that takes time. (about 5 hours start to finish). If you do it you will also need a upper intake manifold gasket and be careful not to stip the bolts on the intake plenum when you take them off. A little PB blaster to help free up up the bolts and the EGR tube would be strongly recommended. While you have it off, you can clean the inside of your intake plenum as well with some intake cleaner Plan on using 2 cans. I would note that a bad knock sensor code can sometimes be caused on the 3.3L engine buy the harness and connector, not the sensor. The knock sensor is replaced and the vehicle still gives a check engine light for the knock sensor. Mostly I see this on the Xterra though.

I have had bad experinces with Walmart batteries not lasting very long. BUT, I will also say that they have never given me any trouble with the warranty, they swap it out no questions. Assuming you have the proper size battery 2.5 years is a little soon on a battery, 3-4 is average, but if you have very hot or cold weather where you live it may just be time for a battery. I would strongly recommend an optima battery. They cost a little more but hold up way longer. There are many on here that will attest to that. As for the alternator, 5-6 years for a properly built remanufactured alternator is average, 6-10 for an OEM, so I would not be completely surprised if you needed a new one. They do alot of work and are constanly working when the vehile is running. Of course, like anything they are built by man, so there are some that dont last at all and some that last forever. The original alternator on my Pathy lasted 13 years.... Also the smell, it is possible that the alterator bearings did freeze for a moment then go back to spinning from the tension/pulling of the belt. I have seen this before. There is usually a horrible squeel that goes along with this, something that sounds like a pig caught in a lawnmower. If this happened there usually is some visable soot on the front and back of the alternator where the fins are that will smell burt. Are there any lights coming on at all on the instrument cluster? If is is under charging or over charging there should be lights coming on. Is it also possible that you left a light or have a power drain somehwere that drove the battery down? Sometimes it is somethign simple like that. If the alternator was not charging, and you did a full recharge on the battery, the vehicle should run 20-30 minutes before dying depending on how much load you are putting on the battery.

Make sure the doors are closed when doing the programming.

Perhaps so, I am not very familiar with the diesel engine on the Terrano.

Yes, that is correct. The part number for Nissan is: 999MP-1XGPP0P for GL4 of GL5. It is onr of the few things where the formula changed but the part number did not. The only way you will find GL4 is if you can find a dealer with older stock still on the shelf, but you will have to ask them specifically if they have the GL4 bottles. Your best bet would be a rural or older dealership if you really want the older bottle. -Rob

Agreed, check all 3 drains and the box for buildup. Everyone should do this at once a year IMHO

Have you checked the air and fuel filters lately?

I am hoping the $300-$700 is becuase the labor rate is high. List on that part is $185.00. I can get you a brand new lock cylinder for about $120.

I have not done it personally, but I forsee a few things that will come up, for one you will need a new ECU. I would also suspect the motor mounts will be different for the diesel engine. The exhaust system is probably different as well, so if there are any emmissions standards that have to be met there make sure to look into that as well. I am sure some of the Terranno owners might have some tips as well.

If you shoot me your VIN I can tell you the applicable ECU's for your vehicle. I can also tell you what vehicle application the ECU that you have will work on if you can send me the part number on the ECU.

Mine when it gets up high takes a while to come back down, especially in the summer.

I agree, get an adaptor. hacking wiring harnessess will always come back to haunt you.

I have a 28,000 BTU tranny cooler. Mine reads this time of year at 100-105 F sometimes going up to 120 for brief moments if i run it hard, then falling back down. In the peak of summer is is at 140-150, peaking up to 180-185 for brief moments if I run it hard. Outside temperature and tranny cooler size matter and will give various results.